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Unrepeated? (Read 35207 times)

andy popp

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Unrepeated?
October 05, 2007, 05:33:15 pm
Inspired by todays beautiful weather and the KK thread, what's left unrepeated on grit. How about Happy Hart (Curbar)? I abbed this briefly once and I thought it looked very hard. And it it hasn't been, the siderunner needs eliminating.

grimer

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#1 Re: Unrepeated?
October 05, 2007, 05:41:58 pm
That's an obvious one Andy, which had the honour of being bottom of the E7 list in the Froggat guide.

MaDMAn?

Northern Comfort  :)

Ecky Thump?

On a slightly different note, what about routes that have not been done ground-up? Scritto's Republic, Braille Trail, One Step Beyond, Dangerous Crocodile, Clippety Clop, B4XS, Gaia, Dharma - or one's that have not been flashed - Masters, Beau Geste?

mark s

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#2 Re: Unrepeated?
October 05, 2007, 06:33:10 pm
northern comfort?
me and andi had a look but ended up doing valk,it looked more challenging.
its hard to know whats being repeated,at a guess
kp nuts
mindbridge
rollercoaster
bit of  a nadin trend

andy popp

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#3 Re: Unrepeated?
October 05, 2007, 06:53:14 pm
That's an obvious one Andy, which had the honour of being bottom of the E7 list in the Froggat guide.

MaDMAn?

MaDMAn is fucking horrendous, never E7.

grimer

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#4 Re: Unrepeated?
October 05, 2007, 06:57:14 pm
Sommonite's picture of Peggo leaving, or about to leave, the ledge is amazing, a proper spine chiller.

Idol eyes

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#5 Re: Unrepeated?
October 05, 2007, 07:20:13 pm
Er! has this thread already been exusted!!!

Idol eyes

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#6 Re: Unrepeated?
October 05, 2007, 07:28:17 pm
Or similar,,,
Warm Love?
Dana Awen???
There was a similar thread, ages ago... it was really good and we tryed to keep it to the Grit, this one should be more open to other routes, globaly.
Indian Face O,S? If non head point  ethic were inforced, lets say after the first 3 ascents, would this get repeated, or would there be an extra carrige on the Snowndon Express for victims!!!

GCW

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#7 Re: Unrepeated?
October 05, 2007, 07:34:26 pm
Is Screaming Dream still considered E7, or is a boulder problem nowadays?  Not quite had an onsight though and Ben proved it would be possible.

And has The Last Temptation had a repeat yet?  Only E6, should be one for an on sight too?
« Last Edit: October 05, 2007, 07:39:29 pm by GCW, Reason: Forgot a Pegg masterpiece »

AndiT

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#8 Re: Unrepeated?
October 05, 2007, 08:07:22 pm
Mindbridge is the one for me, it always stands out after the old High article called 'Dangerous Crocodile Snogging'. It has been unrepeated for so long, is so grim. I'm sure it was questioned whether it would ever be repeated due to the kind of semi-escapable climbing that it is.

Northern Comfort will be repeated within the year...... looks a doddle  ;)

Others would be KP Nuts, Sunday at Chapel, Levitation, The Driven Bow....


cowboyhat

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#9 Re: Unrepeated?
October 05, 2007, 08:41:36 pm
I thought Bransby had done madman?

I have never heard of anyone having repeated Screaming Dream. That does not mean that it hasn't happened.

GCW

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#10 Re: Unrepeated?
October 05, 2007, 09:03:16 pm
I have never heard of anyone having repeated Screaming Dream. That does not mean that it hasn't happened.
I'm sure Ben Moon did it 2nd go after slipping off the easy starting moves.
A list of hard routes on grit here.  Although there are various speeling errors etc (Ryan Paskill for example) and it's old, I don't know of any better list at present.  A tick list it could well be.

GCW

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#11 Re: Unrepeated?
October 05, 2007, 09:12:27 pm
Has the S-Groove had a repeat as the solo (ie no side runners)?
Others in need of an on-sight:
Ggantic, Strawberry Kiss, Perimeter Walk, Chocolate Girl.
The Midas Touch hasn't been done without side runners- E7 without?

I may be wrong on some of these, feel free to correct me.

Andy F

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#12 Re: Unrepeated?
October 05, 2007, 09:50:49 pm
Midas Touch is probably F7b+ climbing and would deffo be E7 without the side runners as a fall from the crux would land you on your back from 20 ft up. The moves higher up are no push-over either. I keep thinking I should go back and do it the pure way, but as I'm a mid 30's dad and not a reckless youth it's not going to happen...

BTW the climbing is excellent, a great line as well. I didn't give it any stars as I wanted repeat ascentionists to give their verdict. Looking back I think if I'd given it a few it may have seen a bit more traffic.
« Last Edit: October 05, 2007, 10:15:13 pm by Andy F, Reason: spellin eror.. D\'oh »

GCW

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#13 Re: Unrepeated?
October 05, 2007, 09:53:26 pm
Has it had a repeat Andy?  It looks a good line, and nicely BOLD.   :thumbsup:

r-man

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#14 Re: Unrepeated?
October 05, 2007, 10:03:32 pm
Gaskin's Slab at Stanworth. Might be some time before that gets done.

Why doesn't someone make a wiki page? Then everyone can add to it as and when. Like this one someone started on ukc: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardest_sport_climbing_routes_in_the_UK

GCW

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#15 Re: Unrepeated?
October 05, 2007, 10:08:06 pm
Gaskin's Slab at Stanworth. Might be some time before that gets done.
From what I hear about Biffa, this may not exist for very much longer  :'(

Andy F

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#16 Re: Unrepeated?
October 05, 2007, 10:08:27 pm
Adam Lincon mentioned he'd done it, but beyond that I don't know. Whispering Nick has top-roped it and offered the f7b+ grade on the toppy. It is a really good line, with some funky 'Monkey on a stick' type moves getting over the roof. You use a small undercut in the roof, slap your right hand up the arete to a crozzly pinch and then slap your left up the RHS arete of the Fools Gold groove to a big sloper.  The way I did it, going back right to the arete from the big slopey hold involved a wicked heel/toe move and rock over to reach the ledge on Golden Tower. If your taller there is a slightly easier sequence high up not using my heel/toe but the grade remains the same.

One of the best sequences I've done anywhere.

GCW

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#17 Re: Unrepeated?
October 05, 2007, 10:16:16 pm
Sounds like a right trouser filler for the solo  :lol:
I'll spot you if you want to finish what you started.......

Andy F

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#18 Re: Unrepeated?
October 05, 2007, 10:18:08 pm
If you've got the build of Big Daddy or Giant Haystacks then I'm up for it  :-\ :goodidea:

GCW

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#19 Re: Unrepeated?
October 05, 2007, 10:22:13 pm
Imagine Giant Haystack's belly grafted onto a 6 foot three pole.  You won't be far out.

Andy F

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#20 Re: Unrepeated?
October 05, 2007, 10:25:39 pm
For those who don't know what we're on about, The Midas Touch takes the undercut right arete of this piccie, with side runners (one at he lip of the roof, one higher up) in this photo: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=18321

Sorry, I don't know how to post the piccie on here.

andy_e

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#21 Re: Unrepeated?
October 06, 2007, 12:08:48 am
Giant Haystacks? You?

GCW

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#22 Re: Unrepeated?
October 06, 2007, 12:18:48 am
Beer gut.
Andy, that photo doesn't do it justice- it's a very cool arete.
I'm sure there's a few E5s and E6s in Lancs that have not been repeated.

Teaboy

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#23 Re: Unrepeated?
October 06, 2007, 02:03:44 am
Seems Peggo's routes might be a recurring theme; has First Last and Always on Esk been repeated? Mind Bomb wihout tensioned rope\side runner?

Did Twid do Hardback Thesarus?


nik at work

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#24 Re: Unrepeated?
October 06, 2007, 07:51:39 am
s groove has had several solo repeats. Perimeter walk should be onsighted by someone if it has't been already. It's easier than the E5 next to it IMHO.

 

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