[superfurrymonkey]

I`ve just acquired the bouldering off piste guide and I`m already  by the scale of the place.
So which area should I make my first point of call, recommendations 

[Idol eyes]

Bas Cuvier, for sure... Would be a kin to going Stanage Plantation first, overpopulated, but quinessential bleau...

[erm, sam]

Unless you were specifically looking for the famous Bas Cuvier probs, I wouldn't go there as my first port of call. Its is a bit too minging and busy at times (though there are LOADS of great probs). Rocher Sabot, Canche au merciers, isatis would be my first ports of call, followed by 91.1, cul de chien, cusineiere blah blah. I have had great days at almost everywhere I have been.. so just get stuck in.. The one place I didn't like was too hot and polished and busy, and my elbows hurt and I was crap.

[Idol eyes]

Franchard is also great, Cuvier to me is more historical, or rather has more antiquity than the other areas, on the whole you are going to be running out of time before you run out of quality areas...

[GCW]

I enjoyed Beavis (Beauvais en Francais), 95.2 (a bit eroded), l'Elephant, Franchard Sablons, Bois-Rond, Cul de Chicken, Canche aux Merciers, la Roche aux Sabots, Potala, 91.1, Apremont (Gorge and Bizons), and Rocher Canon.
Of those I'd recommend Sabots and Merciers for a first trip, but I'd certainly recommend the rest too.

Go there, get lost in the forests, spend hours looking for number 23, and enjoy the whole Bleau atmosphere and experience.   

[Dr T]

la Roche aux Sabots, 91.1

them ones certainly rock
 

[Jim]

go to sabots

[Drew]

Isatis

[Jaspersharpe]

As you can tell from these replies there really are rather a lot of good areas.

One way of picking where to go is to have a look on Bleau.info and pick a few specific problems that you think look really good. By going to do the individual problems you will generally discover loads more quality in their respective areas.

Basically it's mostly very very good interspersed with brilliant.

Enjoy.

[superfurrymonkey]

Cheers guys, I have a copy of Tour de Blocs so I`m going to make a list and do Bleau.info too. Drew are you Drew Withey?

[Scouse D]

Franchard cuisinere will blow your mind

[nash1]

Give us a grade range and type of problem (dyno, slab, slopers etc) and we can give ya a tick list...

[i.munro]

I`ve just acquired the bouldering off piste guide and I`m already  by the scale of the place.

To get a better idea of the scale look at the pull-down list of areas on bleau.info

[Jim]

as scouse sez, take a tight fitting hat coz font will blow your mind

[superfurrymonkey]

Give us a grade range and type of problem (dyno, slab, slopers etc) and we can give ya a tick list...

I quite fancy the idea of some quality slabs 7a to 7b and beyond who knows 

[nash1]

A l'impossible at Sabots is one of the good ones, 7a+. The slabby 6c just left of it really is impossible, never seen anyone do it! J.A Martin has a couple of nice probs, a classic 6c slab and a cool and soft 7a+ (coup de cymbale). Cuisinere is so extensive, there are loads of less steep problems there, and Isatis.
Medaille en chocolat at Apremont is a cheeky 7a, slab start to easy dyno. A few other good slabby things at Apremont as well.
I suggest you spend a bit of time on bleau.info before you go and write down a list of stuff, they tell you if it is a slab on there.

[Dr T]

has anyone done bazoka jo at sabot????

[a dense loner]

never heard of bazoka jo, tho my sabot pages are too heavy to turn anymore

slab - lucifer at sabot is good, if over in 2 moves 7a+/b. la couer at cuisiniere is good, damn that last wet hold 7c. 7a+ at dame jouanne is good, thought was going to break a finger on it. its the only slab in guide.

[a dense loner]

edit: the prob at cuisiniere is called cote couer, not la couer. also a lot of people rave about super prestat 7b+ at cuvier, never tried.
also if anyone can do the project titled "big crotte" 7a in front of me i will give them a pound

[nash1]

has anyone done bazoka jo at sabot????

I have, if I could upload a photo on here I would, but I never managed it. Good line, vicous little crimps...

[Dr T]

has anyone done bazoka jo at sabot????

I have, if I could upload a photo on here I would, but I never managed it. Good line, vicous little crimps...

other than "go back when it's cold" -  any beta?

[nash1]

Beta for Baz Jo.
Stand on ledge
right foot on little mini mini foothold quite far out right
rh on lowest crimp on flake
lh a bit higher than rh, so you have kind of a layback position
jump left foot onto smear (feels insecure, but clean you shoe and it will hold)
rh up to crimp at top of flake
then go to the jug on top, with either hand.

[Paul B]

has anyone done bazoka jo at sabot????

I have, if I could upload a photo on here I would, but I never managed it. Good line, vicous little crimps...

Isn't bazooka joe on the face round the left hand corner from Jet Set? Heel next to hand rock up and get big sidepull thing? I don't know where these "vicious crimps" are....

[nash1]

Nope, you are thinking of the 6b called Mur a Michaud (http://bleau.info/sabots/5758.html). Bazooka Jo is behind and left of you as you are looking at Jet Set. I'll put a pic on UKC and link it when it is approved...

[nash1]

Here is Bazooka Jo
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=74530

He has got his rh where his left should be, his rh should be a foot lower.

[Richie Crouch]

I thought Bazooka Jo was this one, going from this position to the top with RH:

[neil h]

I thought Bazooka Jo was this one, going from this position to the top with RH:

Yes i thought the same, we did it just stepping straight up

[nash1]

No, that is a problem on another circuit and is 5b or something. Bazooka Jo is the crimpy flake at 6c.

[nash1]

I checked, the one you did it is on the same red circuit, here it is http://bleau.info/sabots/5748.html. Baz Jo is the next problem...

[neil h]

i know what bj is and there is a variation direct without the flake, that has nothing to do with the 5 you pointed out, Eliminates Eliminates

[nash1]

i know what bj is and there is a variation direct without the flake, that has nothing to do with the 5 you pointed out, Eliminates Eliminates

Are you saying that the pic I linked to on UKC is not Bazooka Jo? The 5 I pointed out is a metre or so left of the crimpy flake line which I believe to be BJ.
The 5 can be done direct without the underclings at 7a+ish. Bazooka Jo is red 20bis. I am pretty sure I am right...

[Paul B]

checking the guides  , some frenchie put us on the problem I recounted as BJ, fool.

[a dense loner]

The 5 can be done direct without the underclings at 7a+ish

don't really understand what you mean here nash. do you mean undercutting the huge hole is out? if so this is a very little change in grade. or do you mean the right hand undercut and/or the eft hand undercut sidepull, a la photo? if so i seem to remember there are no more holds.
the slab to the right is possibly the hardest thing i've done in font, fingertip mantle without the big foothold, 7a my very pale arse

[nash1]

I don't really understand that either I must admit. A meaningless eliminate to a cool 5b problem. The slab right of Baz Jo...evil, have tried and bin spanked. Wad for doing it!

[a dense loner]

smeared right then left, or maybe just left, then really high step on right. most of weight on left fingers bending backwards as you're mantling up, not pleasant at all, but i was in awe of how dirty it was on several visits

[dave]

Here is Bazooka Jo
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=74530

i thought Bazooka Jo was an eliminate slab/slap thing from the crimp right of that guy without the groove at all. if it isn't then theres a 7a eliminate there somewhere.

[Dr T]

the slab to the right is possibly the hardest thing i've done in font, fingertip mantle without the big foothold, 7a my very pale arse

yeah feel off that too...

[neil h]

the slab to the right is possibly the hardest thing i've done in font, fingertip mantle without the big foothold, 7a my very pale arse

yeah feel off that too...

join the club, wanking problem

[neil h]

right then here is the score once and forall


BJ is red 20 up the crack, right is 7a eliminate with out the big crimps called Amanite Dalloïde 7a

the left is Passage à l'Acte 5+  then you have Legalize This   7a+ (7b)


description : from the undercling of red n°20 directly to the top (eliminate).

I have drawn a map for the eliminate

[GCW]

Amanite Dalloïde 7a

I seem to remember this was a bit naff.  Short slab/wall.  2 moves if that and a bit fingery?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=19206
I think Tom's right foot may be out, but the chalked crimps next to his elbow are eliminated.

[neil h]

Amanite Dalloïde 7a

I seem to remember this was a bit naff.  Short slab/wall.  2 moves if that and a bit fingery?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=19206
I think Tom's right foot may be out, but the chalked crimps next to his elbow are eliminated.

yes his foot is out, thats wy it felt easy, you should be more left than that

[GCW]

Thought as much.  You can see how impressed I am in the background.  Put your sunglasses on before looking though 

[neil h]

 

[a dense loner]

no,no,no. that right foot will not do

[neil h]

its about 4+ thatway

[GCW]

I think Tom's right foot may be out

no,no,no. that right foot will not do

its about 4+ thatway

Harsh responses there!!  Simply confirming what I thought would have sufficed 

Where does it go?  Between the flake/groove and the crimps?  About 2 foot left of Coolboy?  It seemed a bit daft so we didn't spend long on it.  If it's a classic then we promise to go back and do it properly   

[neil h]

its hardly a classic, more of a well i have done everything else here