[GCW]

Had a mess about on Red Wall today.  I was trying Greg's dyno as describes in the LakesBloc topo (18-17 to 43) and it was very awkward having to move so far left en route.  Tonight I watched Greg's YouTube vid and he goes from the better holds (18 and 19, I think).  It makes a lot of difference to grade (and its less distance to acheive too).
Questions....
1.  Does Greg's Dyno go from the 2 big jugs?  (the ones in the vid)
2.  What's in for feet on Six Foot Sicks?  I was tickling the finishing hold using everything, but wasn't sure if the "anything small" rule applied.

Sorry to be so anal, but rules are rules.
Thanks in advance.

[Greg C]

1.  Does Greg's Dyno go from the 2 big jugs?

It is these (18-17 to 43) holds and they are the same as the ones used in the video, hold 19 is a slight edge running out of the juggy break. To be honest as long as you use holds in the juggy break it's the same grade whichever configuration you use. 

2.  What's in for feet on Six Foot Sicks?

Anything for feet.

[Greg C]

By the way Six Foot Sicks is much easier than 7c for the "irritatingly lanky".

[a dense loner]

please tell me you fall into that category greg? if not there's no hope for those of us that are 'normal'
mr burns could enter a 'tall off' with willenburg

[Monolith]

Said it before and I'll say it again, if you're going to give down grades for tall people, give downgrades for short arses on horrific bunched sit starts.

I suppose I'd rather be a bit shorter in a bouldering capacity but in an everyday life capacity, women dig taller men FACT.

[Greg C]

Said it before and I'll say it again, if you're going to give down grades for tall people, give downgrades for short arses on horrific bunched sit starts.

No.

[Greg C]

please tell me you fall into that category greg? if not there's no hope for those of us that are 'normal'

I wasn't talking about myself, if I had of been I'd have said "sour and bitterly lanky". You don't really consider me lanky? Anyway, I've seen your wingspan, I liken it to that of the giant golden condor out of Cities of Gold.

[Monolith]

No.

I had a tenner riding on that response

[GCW]

By the way Six Foot Sicks is much easier than 7c for the "irritatingly lanky".

OK Greg, I guess that'll include me.  Still 3 inches short of Mr Burns though, so can I get 7c+?     Any short arses 8a?

The reason I asked was the holds on the topo looked like the one about 8 inches right of the ones in your vid, so it means a big stretch (even for me) to get the left foot in the pocket.  Thus, the diagonal flight felt hard.  I briefly tried it using the hold in the upper crack as in the vid and it felt much more like 7a+/b.  Dynos are silly anyway, but I still love 'em.   

I'll have another look at these when I go back in another 6 months.

Thanks guys.

[meatball]

Have to agree with mono on this one!!
If the tall amongst us have to take down grades then so should the shorties!!!

[fatneck]

Wibble...

[meatball]

Quit your jibba jabberin fool