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Kernow Bouldering Trip - Where to? (Read 12179 times)

granticus

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Kernow Bouldering Trip - Where to?
September 27, 2007, 04:11:27 pm
Nipping down to Cornwall this weekend in my mate's flash new Merc Sprinter camper.  The plan is to get some bouldering sessions in.
Where should we go?
Have been to Godrevy and know this is an excellent venue and also checked out some bits on the moor.  Would like some input on these places;

Carn Brea, Roche (that means rocks!) Rocks, Gwenver (Gwynver?) (the north end of Sennen!), Clodgy Point, Zennor and anywhere else for that matter.  Where is worth checking?  Which problems are classics etc..  What'll be in condition?

Help, advice, tip offs on secret spots etc.. Please  :-\

Rice Boy

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#1 Re: Kernow Bouldering Trip - Where to?
September 27, 2007, 04:53:04 pm
Went to Clodgy Point recently and was fairly impressed, you definitely need a mat to get the most out of it. Boomerang is worth a trip there alone, and is on the obvious big boulder on the wave cut platform at Clodgy. I didn't have a guide or a clue what I was doing but a combination of a little polish and imagination made for a good few hours.

Useful
http://www.blocspenwith.blogspot.com/

Trivia
http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Articles/HardSWBoulders2006/cornish_list.shtml

There's another site but I couldn't find it.

granticus

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#2 Re: Kernow Bouldering Trip - Where to?
September 27, 2007, 04:59:39 pm
Cheers... Just had a look at these sites and have gleaned some useful info.  Also searched these forums which I should've done first!  ::) Have seen footage of Booma' on Caedmon's vid and know where Clodgy point is.  Is the bloc with Booma on it easy to find?  Is there any FREE parking coz I'm a tight git!

granticus

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#3 Re: Kernow Bouldering Trip - Where to?
September 27, 2007, 05:04:19 pm
Maybe the topic should read 'classic boulder problems in pasty land' or something like that!  Really interested in what we should get on and what we should avoid! 

Andy W

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#4 Re: Kernow Bouldering Trip - Where to?
September 27, 2007, 06:06:44 pm
I like this thread :) theres always been a small but devoted core of boulders down here, exploring and developing areas with little outside attention. Its the first time I've seen the word 'classic' in this context, which is nice. Classic surf no problem and I guess devotees have always been convinced we have a few classic boulder probs as well.

Glad to show you around.

Andy W

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#5 Re: Kernow Bouldering Trip - Where to?
September 27, 2007, 06:56:32 pm
Carn Brea; from car park walk past monument and you find these   around this area there are quite a few and quite a good circuit can be had. Do all the aretes, the baddest roundest one is classic always feel about E4 to me!, the sharper cleaner one is called 'classic arete', look aroungd and anyhthing looking clean or chalked will be good.

This block has some good problems, maybe not classic, maybe 'snoopy' is a classic hard thrutch!

Clodgy: http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1127/2089/1600/boom.1.jpg    topo for Australia boulder, and round the back of the boulder  http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1127/2089/1600/DSCF0051.jpg is 'Victoria" good from a sit start. A traverse of this boulder is also obvious start left of victoria and go right, if you go all the way its V9!. To find the boomerang boulder walk from St Ives away from Porthmeor, towards the headland with large boulders on top (these are home to some old school easyish stuff) drop down from here onto the rocky seashore platform and you will find the bouldering, it won't look much to start with! but its good.

Try the hill top at Zennor for some good micro probs and circuits.

Idol eyes

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#6 Re: Kernow Bouldering Trip - Where to?
September 29, 2007, 11:52:29 am
The lower tier at Bosigran has been my quarry this year, V Highball and little in the way of information, im guessing lots of unclimbed hard stuff, could some locals come through with some info? *** star area, one 18 move long rising traverse with a 6B dyno finnish at around 20ft...

Andy W

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#7 Re: Kernow Bouldering Trip - Where to?
September 30, 2007, 11:17:53 am
The lower tier at Bosigran has been my quarry this year, V Highball and little in the way of information, im guessing lots of unclimbed hard stuff, could some locals come through with some info? *** star area, one 18 move long rising traverse with a 6B dyno finnish at around 20ft...

I haven't been down there for years, but yea its a good wall and has some good stuff....remember a sharp hanging arete?..Shane Ohly did a lot of stuff down there and recently Chris Hall, but I couldn't be specific, also remember it being a bit scary down there. On similar lines theres a wall down at Sennen  'White Wedding'     V8/9 (6c)  A long traverse from ‘Sinner’s Route’ to ‘Overmarked’. I've done it both ways but only climbing the main wall section. Mark Edwards traversed between the two routes, personally I couldn't see the point. But anyway great involved technical climbing in a great setting.

A Jooser

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#8 Re: Kernow Bouldering Trip - Where to?
October 01, 2007, 09:49:28 am
Grant, I hope you had a good trip. With an early afternoon low tide and the decent weather on Saturday I guess you couldn’t really go wrong!

Idol Eyes – The lower cliffs at Bosi have seen quite a bit of attention since Shane put up his micro routes, but mostly in the form of repeat ascents of these. On the upper platform is a 30ft high obvious open corner (this is Sea Wall Exit C, V.S. 4c, in the CC guide) left of this, problems have been done based around the arching undercling-crack. Left again is a beautiful 12ft high, smooth vertical wall with black and brown coloured streaks and an obvious crease at half height. A good problem from quite a few years ago called Perseverance goes straight up this right of centre at about V3/4 6a/b-ish. I’d be interested to hear more about what you’ve done down there.

Idol eyes

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#9 Re: Kernow Bouldering Trip - Where to?
October 01, 2007, 09:35:21 pm
Perseverance sounds like the one that  I am describing, Not done much else, mostly getting high and backing off, one arete is total heart attack!!! you guys keen to link up! did i meet you at Carn Brea durring the second ascent of that Snoopy Problem (or the one to the rt?)

Idol eyes

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#10 Re: Kernow Bouldering Trip - Where to?
October 01, 2007, 09:38:00 pm
Ps, what is the name and numbers of the mantle arete (V Difficult) at the aretes boulder at Carn Brea?

Andy W

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#11 Re: Kernow Bouldering Trip - Where to?
October 02, 2007, 09:24:40 am
Ps, what is the name and numbers of the mantle arete (V Difficult) at the aretes boulder at Carn Brea?

Jooser will probably correct me, but I think you mean the very rounded and little bit high arete; 'bloodstone arete', it used to have a cheatstone, but that got kicked down the hill a few years ago. I've never heard a grade mentioned for this problem. But I'd say in new numbers about V5. I've never fallen of it but it is possible to fall of higher up and fly straight over your spotters head! always scares me!

Idol eyes

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#12 Re: Kernow Bouldering Trip - Where to?
October 02, 2007, 02:17:40 pm
I can not do the start, very tricky mantle, the slabby arete above is nice hugging and allows you to scope the slab to the lft... the start to this seems slightly impossible, please do not tell me this goes at V6/7, or I will commit homicide...

Andy W

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#13 Re: Kernow Bouldering Trip - Where to?
October 02, 2007, 03:41:45 pm
I can not do the start, very tricky mantle, the slabby arete above is nice hugging and allows you to scope the slab to the lft... the start to this seems slightly impossible, please do not tell me this goes at V6/7, or I will commit homicide...


if we're talking about the same arete, there is a kind of hold at chest height, you kind of put your palm on this and do a mantle on it, there is a degree of dynamism to do this move, ie you bounce into it a bit. Well I do anyhow! I can't see how you can climb this arete without doing that move tho, so maybe we are talking about a diffferent problem.

Idol eyes

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#14 Re: Kernow Bouldering Trip - Where to?
October 02, 2007, 04:01:43 pm
I down climbed the arete, to assume the situation you would be in if you achieved the start... I fell down the last 2", that's the dynamicky bit you mention.

Andy W

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#15 Re: Kernow Bouldering Trip - Where to?
October 03, 2007, 09:53:03 am
I down climbed the arete, to assume the situation you would be in if you achieved the start... I fell down the last 2", that's the dynamicky bit you mention.

Yea thats the one i, guess you mean 2' not 2''. Jooser thinks the arete is from standing is V4, i think its a bit harder than that!

Idol eyes

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#16 Re: Kernow Bouldering Trip - Where to?
October 03, 2007, 12:44:54 pm
No, 2 inches... I find it hard to do the start without the frenchy methods, will try that agan! the wall behind this "Crystal Tips?" I find easier.

granticus

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#17 Re: Kernow Bouldering Trip - Where to?
October 03, 2007, 08:37:29 pm
Hi folks...
Well we had a wonderful weekend of bouldering and somehow managed to avoid the rain.  Saturday was a Godrevy session, did lots of easier bits and bobs as well as, had a go a LPT (right) which was not in good condition and didn't succeed, did Beachball and then my mate Mike flashed it!  Had a look at Providence, again not in great condition and definately bloody hard but wouldn't describe as a 'classic' line...  Unforunately, there was a huge rock pool under Perfect Evening Light or whatever it's called, really wanted to have a go at these lines, they look great....  Am well aware just how much beach levels can change from bouldering on Exmoor coast... so maybe next time.
Well after a slow start on Sunday we decided to head down to Clodgy and aimed for the America boulder... As Boomerang was toted as being 'classic' had to go and have a go.  Both sent when, the pressure of a few drops of rain provided motivation and inspiration to complete.  The boulder was very damp, especially starting holds. Must admit to exessive use of chalk but heh it will be washed away with the tide.  We tried Salad Fingers until we were wasted and the rain finally set in properly.  Our verdict was that Boomerang is a quality line, the middle move is tricky but awesome and start move is hard.  Managed to keep my left foot on doing the tricky move when I sent it, felt way easier than cutting lose but required good timing.  Definately, worth a visit to Kernow with bouldering in mind... 
Very hard to find topos on stuff though!!

A Jooser

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#18 Re: Kernow Bouldering Trip - Where to?
October 04, 2007, 09:52:06 am
... did i meet you at Carn Brea durring the second ascent of that Snoopy Problem (or the one to the rt?)

I believe you probably did; I’ll make sure I come and say hi when I next see you at the crags.

Bloodstone Arête is more tricky than actually hard, it’s just a matter of having hands in the right position before setting up for the mantle. *Beta Alert* – ‘if you don’t want to know the score, look away now!' – heel of left hand on the good bit first, elbow up, pinkies down then right hand on top of left. Bounce/hop into the mantle and put right foot up by fingers. Some blind groping then gains the standing position.

granticus – re. Boomerang ‘Proper Jawb!’ well done to you and Mike. Unfortunately Beachball at Godrevy is a bit of a non-problem, I’d flashed it before I was told the rules! Even the chap who put it up can’t remember them now, basically something to do with not heel-hooking on the hold on the right and keeping both feet below the arête. I hate eliminates but luckily there’s plenty of better problems out there.

...Very hard to find topos on stuff though!!
Keep looking at Javu…


Idol eyes

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#19 Re: Kernow Bouldering Trip - Where to?
October 04, 2007, 06:36:31 pm
Are the Dartmoor/Bodmin Moor conditions in around the next month, and then through the winter, or does it only lend itself to the summer months (absolutly frothing for it!!!),

granticus

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#20 Re: Kernow Bouldering Trip - Where to?
October 04, 2007, 07:14:08 pm
Quote
Are the Dartmoor/Bodmin Moor conditions in around the next month, and then through the winter, or does it only lend itself to the summer months (absolutly frothing for it!!!),

Conditions are normally good in the autumn on the moors.  Although you need the weather to be clear.  If there is any hint of cloud or rain it usually gravitates towards the moors.  The beauty of this part of the world is that if you have rubbish conditions on the moors, it can quite often be good on the coast and vice versa.  Rain can blow over the coast and stack up on the moor or when it's gloomy and grim on the coast the moor can be in full sunshine....  Tend to get pockets of good weather..  eg.  Chudleigh is quite often in the 'rain shadow' of Dartmoor and can be dry when it's grim up there.  Summer can be shocking (ie. bad) for granite bouldering, soapy, sweaty, greasy crystals, soft skin, sharp rock, bad combination on the whole!

Quote
Boomerang ‘Proper Jawb!’ well done to you and Mike. Unfortunately Beachball at Godrevy is a bit of a non-problem, I’d flashed it before I was told the rules!

Cheers baeee! Booma' is definately a very good and fun problem...  I think Mike used a heelhook on said big hold and thus didn't follow the rules.  That'll teach him to have good footwork!!  Definately a bit of a non-problem imo! 

granticus

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#21 Re: Kernow Bouldering Trip - Where to?
October 04, 2007, 07:18:21 pm
Forgot to add!  On the Saturday at Godrevy, we spotted a grey seal, clambered over the rocks and got to within a couple of metres of it.  It dived and popped up a metre away from us.  The seal proper eyeballed us at very close range, we could hear it breath and see it's nostrils flaring.  It was a big fella as well don't think I would've jumped in even if I'd had a wetsuit to hand!

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#22 Re: Kernow Bouldering Trip - Where to?
January 25, 2008, 03:37:18 pm
This might help on your next visit  http://www.blocspenwith.co.uk/

granticus

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#23 Re: Kernow Bouldering Trip - Where to?
January 30, 2008, 05:44:05 pm
Cheers Andy W...  Got a link off Dave's site a week or so ago..  Great little web-site with much more useful info.

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Hi all.

Staying in Sennen next week, does anyone know of any available information on the bouldering at Sennen Crag?  I heard somewhere that some has been done at the far right hand end? 

cheers.            :)

 

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