[andyheb]

Think i did this problem tonight but a little unsure.
First tried it from the undercuts then to jug on arete and then tried to dyno for the blob higher up with my right hand. This seemed desperate and i couldn't get round the bulge and stay on. So I used a second sequence which worked. This went from undercut to jug then streched out left to flake then to the blob.
Now is said flake for left hand in or out? It is just around the arete and directly below the obvious foothold but on the toppo the line seems to stick to the arete! Anyone tell me what the crack is?  Cheers in advance Karma points in it if I can work out how to do that!

[BenF]

Now then, I've done this problem a couple of years back and I seem to remember having doubts about where the line went.  I also seem to remember climbing it several ways to make it feel the grade and quite possibly to avoid this flake you talk about but I'm not entirely sure and may be very much mistaken (it wouldn't be the first time).  I am sure that I stuck close to the arete though.  I did also enjoy the problem, one of the best at Heysham.

[GCW]

I don't remember using the flake, but it's years ago so I may be wrong.  Hopefully Greg will be along to let us know the rules.  This is a venue I should go back to, enjoyed it the one visit I had.
Liz's Lip is good too, but the starting crack/blob was damp when I was there.

[Greg C]

  Beta: Basically stay to the right as much as possible. Start matched on the undercut, slap in a big hold (LH), then up to the weird blob on the bulge with your RH, finish direct. Starting in the same place but ONLY using holds on the right is Subliminal sit start (7c+) - i.e Start matched on undercut, out to sloper on the lip, match, dyno to the blob (crux), finish direct.

Just don't comment Dense.

[GCW]

Cheers Greg.

[Greg C]

Quick note to anyone going to Heyshem Head. Go during a cold dry spell mid-winter and it's a small but satisfyingly good venue. At all other times of the year it's not so pleasant.

PS: I'll update the (very old) topo this winter.

[GCW]

Probably worth re-iterating not to go when it's at all damp as the rock becomes fragile.

A new guide would be cool Greg.  Just noticed you'd updated the Woodwell one, I'm miles behind.  Good work!!

[andyheb]

  balls i'll have to go back again didn't do it right!
Last night the church ruins boulders and sea crags were dry and had good friction. The stuff in the woods was pretty wet. Lizzy lip does look good and some of the other stuff near the wood crag also looks good, but the rock definitely  trashes your skin if you keep falling off! Pissing blood out me hands by the end of the night!

Cheers for the beta guys. How do i big up peoples Karma?

[slackline]

Cheers for the beta guys. How do i big up peoples Karma?

Have to wait a bit, if memory serves you can dish out karma after 50 posts or so.

[BenF]

A new guide would be cool Greg.  Just noticed you'd updated the Woodwell one, I'm miles behind.  Good work!!

I'll second that, nice one for the Woodwell update Greg. 

I'm not wishing to be overly pedantic or complain about your tireless work, but I think that "Whistler" problem (or whatever Neil or Gaskins called it) up the smooth small at Woodwell RHS is missing off the topo.  Sorry to be an arse.

[GCW]

Sorry to be an arse.

No you aren't.
I like the format of the Woodwell guide better than before too.  Keep up the good work!!

[BenF]

Sorry to be an arse.

No you aren't.

You clearly haven't met me.

[Greg C]

A new guide would be cool Greg.  Just noticed you'd updated the Woodwell one, I'm miles behind.  Good work!!

I'll second that, nice one for the Woodwell update Greg. 

I'm not wishing to be overly pedantic or complain about your tireless work, but I think that "Whistler" problem (or whatever Neil or Gaskins called it) up the smooth small at Woodwell RHS is missing off the topo.  Sorry to be an arse.

Yeah, the reason that problem isn't on the topo is because I "updated" it over a year ago. Plus I just modified grades and info of lines already on the topo, there are quite a few "new" lines missing.

[BenF]

Yeah, there's also that Kiss of the Dragon (or something like that) thing isn't there? 

[Greg C]

Most of the lines (new & old) are listed in the UKC database with beta.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/showcrag.html?climb2=470

[BenF]

Nice one, I didn't know that there was a UKC database for Woodwell.  Thanks.