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'the leaping boy' (Read 37376 times)

GCW

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#125 Re: 'the leaping boy'
October 01, 2007, 09:39:56 pm
Think about the autobiographys of Dawes and Muffatt,,,
Very big long words would be called something like, Vendi Vindi Vinci.
Can not spell words would be called, I looked good and felt grate! I was the beast!

Eh?   ???

Idol eyes

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#126 Re: 'the leaping boy'
October 01, 2007, 09:44:11 pm
The V.V.V. thread was aimed at the Dawes being related to the Medichi,
I was the Beas... oh, never mind...

grimer

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#127 Re: 'the leaping boy'
October 01, 2007, 10:02:26 pm
I was the Beas... oh, never mind...

You were the beas kneas Pat

Idol eyes

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#128 Re: 'the leaping boy'
October 02, 2007, 05:38:07 am
"Were, WERE"
Another title for Moffatt could be the "Me, Myself and I" corker he came out with...
hope the Dawes finishes his book one day...soon!

AndiT

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#129 Re: 'the leaping boy'
October 02, 2007, 08:00:48 am
"Are"  :)

webbo

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#130 Re: 'the leaping boy'
October 02, 2007, 09:10:16 am
one of the best stories i heard was about routes on a certain yorks lime crag which has a rep for big bold mort routes.
a certain mr hougie dall said he done a route there a round the time of the first ascent and he said the chalk only went as far as the crux.when the claimed first ascentionist found out hougie had done the route apparentley he was desperate to find out on which date mr dall had done it.when he was told he claimed to have done it a day or two before.

grimer

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#131 Re: 'the leaping boy'
October 02, 2007, 09:48:07 am
As in "There are only three people in the world could do that move. Me..."

Me Myself and I was what I called Jerry's Ape Index show. Did anyone see that. The best ever.

Idol eyes

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#132 Re: 'the leaping boy'
October 02, 2007, 01:33:08 pm
No, could imagine the slackjaw swaggering around on stage, i do rate Jerry, The thing about the pair of them is their egocentric mannerisms get in the way of some pretty soulfull expressions, Know what I mean...
JD's book could also be called "The Micro-cosmists reign of the Macrocosm" a true story...
you gotta love them...

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#133 Re: 'the leaping boy'
October 02, 2007, 02:07:14 pm
Agree Grimer, Jerry's show was the most inspiring climbing related thing I have ever seen. The Dunney one was unforgettable for other reasons...

Scouse D

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#134 Re: 'the leaping boy'
October 03, 2007, 01:49:44 pm
Aye, the Dunne one was awesome.  the threat of violence gave it a real sence of excitement.

Idol eyes

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#135 Re: 'the leaping boy'
October 03, 2007, 04:46:42 pm

grimer

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#136 Re: 'the leaping boy'
October 03, 2007, 04:52:56 pm
You "Are"se still the beast kneast

Pantontino

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#137 Re: 'the leaping boy'
October 03, 2007, 05:23:24 pm
Smart, that could do with some topos.  Out of curiosity what's the official advice going to be about the death gearing up/picnic spot above the collapsing descent gully?

As long as people are careful I don't think this is such a big deal. The path below the crag is just as unnerving in places.

Idol eyes

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#138 Re: 'the leaping boy'
October 03, 2007, 07:06:14 pm
You "Are"se still the beast kneast

Thanks G, (I think)
Still, I think the prospect of me writing an autobiography is Nil, possibly a pamphlet?
or maybe a  post it...
memo...
dunno!
hello...

grimer

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#139 Re: 'the leaping boy'
October 04, 2007, 09:22:28 am
hello pat  :)

Idol eyes

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#140 Re: 'the leaping boy'
October 04, 2007, 11:22:49 am
 :thumbsup:

rc

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#141 Re: 'the leaping boy'
October 04, 2007, 08:52:19 pm
For those not eagerly absorbing every news item as it arrives from UKC-Mick, here's an interview
I saw the first pic and thought it was Chegwin.

Johnny Brown

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#142 Re: 'the leaping boy'
October 04, 2007, 09:15:23 pm
Nice one! Following quote is worth including, given the discussions above:

Quote from: 'JD'
And the top bit I couldn’t work on a rope, because of the nature of where it was, so I did that bit onsight. The top bit of Gaia was onsight. It was a mantle, and I’d sketched where I was going to put my foot. I’d had a really good look at it, and knew what the move was, and committed myself to that move, knowing from experience that that would make that much friction and all I could hold on.

So, my basic style was not really to toprope the routes — it was to try them on abseil so I got all the moves, and then the last bit of unknown would be doing them on a link, when I led it. So, whether that’s easier or harder, I have no idea, but that’s how I did my routes. What I did it, I did them in sections, so I’d abseil down, do a move, do two more moves, grab the rope, clamber down the rope, jump into the rock, jump up on the rope and take some rope in, and then I’d try the next overlapping section. But what I hadn’t done was do the whole thing in a oner.       

What about the term “headpointing”?
I invented the word headpointing, I think. But I don’t like it  —  it’s a terrible expression

Pantontino

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#143 Re: 'the leaping boy'
October 05, 2007, 01:54:27 pm
Johnny was answering a question about Gaia, not IF. I'm sure Johnny's 'basic style' was as he describes, but there was a very important exception which he fully admitted to in the Power of Climbing interview (which took place only 5 years after the ascent).

You should be a spin doctor JB. ::) Maybe you already are?!! :-\

Also, not sure about the 'onsight' bit at the top of Gaia either, and didn't Nick Dixon invent the term 'headpoint'?

grimer

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#144 Re: 'the leaping boy'
October 05, 2007, 02:16:27 pm
One thing strikes me about a lot of this. It's that on-sighting E7 and above on grit must be incredibly hard. Even if you look on here and see people like Jasper and Johnny Brown - both very talented climbers with very strongly held ethical opinions about styles of ascent - yet it seems to me that even they are not regulary on-sighting grit E7. I mean Jasper earlier referred to working through E4s and 5s, while at the time was probably capable of font 8as. Not having a go, Jasper, but with the talent and ethical opinions, should yourselves and many others not have been pissing all over Gaia, Beau Geste, Appointment with Fear, Braill Trail? Even Johnny, did he ever repeat anything on grit harder than E6?

What I'm trying to say is that a lot of people have talent, a lot of people have strong ethics but if you look at the facts, it's obviously a lot harder than people give it credit for.



AndiT

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#145 Re: 'the leaping boy'
October 05, 2007, 02:31:53 pm
 :agree: I think there is simply too much of a gamble, especially so on Grit with it being very unpredictable. I had some very hard times on HVS's at the weekend, I certainly wouldn't have wanted to solo several of these despite only being in the 5b sort of grade, so being in a dangerous 6b situation - onsight - is a very serious risk indeed. Without any sort of 'inside' information these routes could provide far too great a gamble for most, if any people to consider justifiable.

Perhaps on other rock types, the likelihood of harder on-sighting is more likely?

I'm sure The Dawes also once quoted something along the lines that 'the two most dangerous things in climbing are: loose rock and on-sighting hard gritstone', makes sense to me.

Johnny Brown

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#146 Re: 'the leaping boy'
October 05, 2007, 06:29:43 pm
Quote
It's that on-sighting E7 and above on grit must be incredibly hard.

I don't agree, its just not fashionable. The reason I'm not regulary onsighting grit E7 is cos I'm not regulary onsighting E5 either. I am by no means in the premier league for my generation, I have been lucky enough to climb with some of them though.

When Leo decided to do some grit E7s, he onsighted four in a weekend. Ryan is similarly capable of this and is out there doing it, he just forgets and isn't arsed/ doesn't understand the media. His flash of End of the Affair was one of the most significant ascents of the last few years, who heard about it? I think he thought it was piss n'all.

grimer

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#147 Re: 'the leaping boy'
October 05, 2007, 06:48:53 pm
Yes, you might not be in the premier league, but you are capable, easily so, of flashing things like End of the Affair. They are, as you say, relatively piss.


Jacqusie

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#148 Re: 'the leaping boy'
October 05, 2007, 08:02:24 pm
Yes, you might not be in the premier league, but you are capable, easily so, of flashing things like End of the Affair. They are, as you say, relatively piss.




That was what was going down your right leg when you did it Grimer I hear...

 ;)

a dense loner

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#149 Re: 'the leaping boy'
October 06, 2007, 08:26:17 am
yes but grimer had prepracticed this bit too

 

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