[Rice Boy]

Turned into an essay so bullet pointed

1. Admittedly a warm summer afternoon wasn't the best time to try this but curiosity got the better of me and my remaining skin. (plus the photo in the guide makes it out to look like midday summer sun)

First tried: left hand coming out first to high sloper which let me weight the left foot in break only to fall coming off when trying to bring RH out. Feet issues.

Second tried: right hand out to lower sloper better for foot positioning but could do jack from it. Hand issues.

Step by step would be ace but any info would be appreciated.

2. Is the Wimberry section of Yorkshiregrit lost or is it still accessible somewhere else? Heard someone (BMC?) were working on a comprehensive guide.

3. Also, one for locals, just off the crag approach path nearing the top (to the right of the path/small brook walking up) is a small overhanging wall which has obviously been worked. Has this been climbed? Looked hard and dynamic but also very good quality.

[chappers]

not much help, but i THINK i went left hand onto higer sloper then put my right foot by my right hand on the rail to get my right hand off. the lunge for the top.
cold day?

[Rice Boy]

That makes sense, cheers. Cold - wasn't but it's on the winter list.

The lunge move for the top looks to be one of the best.

[a dense loner]

it is one of the best. i don't do shit problems. never mind what the guide tells you, and it's not called fucking ego either. right hand first, then left, then right. i put right foot high n right before bringing left hand off the rail, few others have put left heel next to left hand before bringing it off the rail. i would be quite surprised if you did it like you said chappers.
<ego fuelled rant over>

[Rice Boy]

it's not called fucking ego either.

What does it go by?

I take it you know the area well, have you seen/been on the climb up the hill just off the approach path? I'll be heading out there within the week (weather permitting) with a camera if it's not obvious what I'm on about. 

[Ru]

Dense called the problem Dark Matter, but it was subsequently retroclaimed as Ego. As we had to be impartial when writing the guide it went in as Ego, rightly or wrongly.

If it's what I'm thinking of, the small wall up the hill is a proj - Shhh, no pics needed!

[Rice Boy]

That'll be the one. Thanks

[GCW]

Dense called the problem Dark Matter, but it was subsequently retroclaimed as Ego.

...hence Dense's happy face in the photo in Ru's guide. 
Excellent line whoever did it first.   

[a dense loner]

i did it first, there's no if's, and's, or but's. i won't go into it but you know when a prob's been tried/done before, nobody had ever pulled on them holds. that is not to say look at me, but to point out that nobody had used the holds before. bearing in mind i used to go 3-5 times a wk. as for the subsequent retroclaim. anybody can get hold of a list and say i did it before that date. this was always known as my prob, by those in the pub, i mean know. retroclaims or not. the pinch prob down the hill is mine as well, this has no name in the guide for some reason. tho this has got a bit harder since the thumb catch has crumbled

[GCW]

the pinch prob down the hill is mine as well, this has no name in the guide for some reason.

Is this on sloping top (excuse my ignorance but I've only been 3-5 times).  What's the name?

[a dense loner]

yes. i didn't name it, much to greg and r-mans horror i suspect. used to be a good move, now seems a bit hideous

[Doylo]

its piss and i did it first

[a dense loner]

you wouldn't have been able to haul your sorry ass up that

[Rice Boy]

Staying on the fish boulder, You're Joking goes off the two obvious head hieght slopey crimps to the top . . . but . . which top? I only had two poor attempts at a slap and was aiming for the lowest juggy(ish) bit of the block straight up from left hand, there is a flatty directly above the RH so  .

Traverses pain me in all the wrong ways but the Coarse Traverse is brilliant all the way.

[dave]

i think you aim left.

[Rice Boy]

Danke.

[a dense loner]

johnny went straight upish but i always go left for some reason. have you gone from the 2 crimps into the groove yet rice boy? really good move, brought a scream out of crimping arthur anyway. am with you all the way on your traverses

[Rice Boy]

have you gone from the 2 crimps into the groove yet rice boy? really good move, brought a scream out of crimping arthur anyway.

Not tried this although the original way I climbed the grove wasn't far off (involved a scream at least). Will try it. Would the sitter involve this move?

[Jim]

the sitter goes into the 2 crimps and would be very hard. I believe dense has done it from one move in.
 

I think your joking is a bit shit as going left is much easier than going straight up and is a one move wonder. won't stop me trying or ticking it tho

[a dense loner]

loose lips sink ships jimothy

i don't understand the bottom quote you put up by me rice boy? i didn't say that

i have now named the pinch prob "the grey road". 1) cos it was in lord of the rings 2)not everything makes sense even when it is black and white to begin with and 3)cos i like the name

think i now understand that bottom quote was from you. yes it does

[Jim]

what pinch problem?

[GCW]

what pinch problem?

This One

Fuck, actually don't click that.  You'll create one of those temporal paradox jobbies.   

[Pantontino]

Dense, have you done all the moves on the sitter project? I thought this looked nails. Not saying that a man of your skills couldn't do it, just that it looked a bit Gaskins-esque.

[Doylo]

Not saying that a man of your skills couldn't do it, just that it looked a bit Gaskins-esque.

Well they're both bald and they both worship at the furry altar!

[nathan wind]

Was on this the other day and just wanted to try and find out whats in and whats not...

Did it from the sit, but used an intermediate which I think probably isn't in?? rh to first sloper, then left to the second sloper, rocked up on my rf using a small dink in the rail.. went again with the rh for the top though used a pebble above the slopers for my rh to stabilise myself, just before slapping for the finishing hold... anyone know if this is in or out?? felt easier with than without.. especially as I fell off going for the top having not used the pebble! Either way a cracking problem.. just a bit sharp.. though it was my third day on so skin was a bit thin!!