[dave]

In the guide problem number 19 on the pinches wall goes "(L1, R1) L3, R12 L12". Is this for real, cos 12 ain't big enough to get 2 hands on unless its a parisellas match. I suspect its just a typo and should be (L1, R1) L3, R12, L14, R14 as this makes sense with every other problem there, but the Banks takes the guide word for word literally, like its the Koran. Can Ru or arthur Harris back me up on this one? cheers.

[Ru]

Correct. What a shame, I hadn't noticed that, and it's one of my favourite pinches wall problems, although I find it desperate and I've only managed it a handful of times. I might buy a dedicated mobile to serve as a pinches wall hotline for emergencies such as this. Pass my apologies on to Andy.

[dave]

Dial 0800-PINCHES etc etc.

Its is a great move. how do you rate it compared to (L1, R1) R6, L10, R14, L14? Maybe its time for a pinches wall suplement.

[Andy B]

I don't like your religious intolorance Dave. The guide is not like the Koran. It's far more important than that, and I'm sure a higher force was resonsible for any "mistakes" made therein.


and you still can't tick it in the guide, dave, unless you've already got the tipex out.

[dave]

don't worry, its penciled over.

I'd like to see you at stoney with the old rockfax guide andy. Lucie's Undercut uses holds 34, 36, 22 to jug 31, with toe on 4. As you can imagine hold 4 is about 7meters away from the rest of the problem.

[Ru]

Hi, you're through to the Pinches Hotline, calls are charged at standard rates. For information regarding conditions please dial 1. For new and supplemental problems please dial 2. If you have a query regarding beta or allowed footholds please dial 3. For all other queries please hold and you will be put through to an operator as soon as possible.

...

We apologise for the delay as we are experiencing an unusually large volume of calls at the moment. Please continue to hold and you will be put though to an operator as soon as possible.

...

(L1, R1) L3, R12, L14, R14 is harder than (L1, R1) R6, L10, R14, L14, I think.

[Andy B]

The rockfax guide was clearly a false prophet, as demonstrated by the description for Rack and Ruin: downclimbing to a foothold then dynoing back out of the cave to H, and potentially down the gully, if missed!

I follow only two religious tomes:Raajj, verses 7 and 8, and the New Testament of Ru.

[dave]

What would the "on hold" music be for the pinches hotline? Perhaps andy harris singing the descriptions to the pinches problems to the tune of "Back Home", the official song of the 1970 England world cup squad. Accompanied by Zippy on comb & paper.

[Andy B]

Ru, singing "I Did it My Way"

[Sloper]

Your call is important to us, please hold.

(exert from Wolfie's Choral)

'Hi this is Raj how may I help you?'

'Er I'm not sure if I can cross over with my right to hold 14 or if I have to go lefft left then right to match'

'Most certainly a cross over sir, going left left match is just snatchy and weak'

'OK Cool, the other problem I have is that my right toe keeps slipping off hold 6'

'Yes sir a very common problem, have you tried rebooting?'

[cofe]

Ru, singing "I Did it My Way"

or

"The road is long
With many a winding turn
That leads us to who knows where
Who knows when
But I'm strong
Strong enough to carry him
He ain't heavy, he's stu littleflava"

[SA Chris]

"Any new sequences may be recorded for training purposes"

[Paz]

I think of the Rockfax and Ru's guide as the Old and New Testaments. 

[fatdoc]

don't worry, its penciled over.

I'd like to see you at stoney with the old rockfax guide andy. Lucie's Undercut uses holds 34, 36, 22 to jug 31, with toe on 4. As you can imagine hold 4 is about 7meters away from the rest of the problem.

now, that's a another contention


it actually Lucian's problem.. then shortened to luc's problem - not lucy, lucey etc....


the 1st ascent however was made by zippy, but he thought lucian had already done it.

minus ten - it just cant get better than this -

[Andy B]

This has been corrected in the Gospel According to Ru (and Andy H for Stoney).