after JB fell off it twice, I stepped in for the flash, and glory. It turned out to be a nice V1 (5c).
I wouldn't recommend a visit. The whole crag offers two moves harder than 5c
It is of interest only to the mid-grade boulderer with a yen for esoterica but stuck in Beeley without transport.
I also did a good lip traverse. It takes the overhanging lip to the left of the climber in this photo: http://www.flickr.com/photos/simonjacques/1990793812/Without using the block behind his feet, it felt about 7b. Assuming it's not been done before, I propose the name Hot Tub. Care should be taken as the apex of the prow is prone to flexing when weighted. Might be worth one of Bonjoy's (!)s.
Looking out from the pinnacle, theres a small quarried bay down and left. Here lies an obvious tall arête bounding a gully/chimney, again well worth a star and V2ish. Its obviously been done before as some serious digging had occurred to facilitate topping out.There is also a fingery traverse line across the buttress, about V4 and a strong natural line. We started sitting on the arête and went rightwards. This may well have been done before as well. Anyone know anything of these?The centre of the wall, christened Dobbins Blog assuming its new, is brilliant. E4 6c or V7/8 with a mean rockover to gain a distant micro-hyphen. Johnny Brown nipped in for the first ascent.
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