[rainbow]

Not so much beta, but info on the exact line. Pic below.



The description in the bmc guide says go directly from the slottled block in break to the sloping pod then top. This seems v easy for v6 so assumed you take slotted block with right, undercut with left, catch sloping pod with right, right again for the top. Again pretty easy for the grade. Unless its the blank wall inbetween the arete and the sloping pod.???  nice moves anyway.

Also Can anyone shed some light on the line of Captain Ahab on the Hurkling stones. The guide suggests you take the wall on undercuts to the sloping top out. What i want to know is it the wall without using the v2 arete on the left.

Had an amazing time up there yesterday.

[grimer]

I must admit that I concocted that grade from repeated failures. What I was trying was the first method, undercutting the break. it was warm summer, and i thought "this feels about as hard as a v6 would feel."

Hence...

sorry.

 

Glad you had a good time anyway.

[rainbow]

it was warm summer, and i thought "this feels about as hard as a v6 would feel."

Would be hard in summer temps. With the high winds it was proper cold, wished I had a hat with me.

[a dense loner]

I must admit that I concocted that grade from repeated failures. What I was trying was the first method, undercutting the break. it was warm summer, and i thought "this feels about as hard as a v6 would feel."
 

[grimer]

This displeases you in some way?

[Norton Sharley]

This displeases you in some way?

 

who hasn't made up grades when writing a guide ?

 

[grimer]

Lee hasn't, I presume, given his reaction.

[Monolith]

For a lucid illustration of Lee's perspective on grades http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,7275.0.html

'Making up grades', overgrading and undergrading all go hand-in-hand I would anticipate. Nobody's safe from senior crag policemen these days eh. And rightly so!

[Norton Sharley]

For a lucid illustration of Lee's perspective on grades http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,7275.0.html

'Making up grades', overgrading and undergrading all go hand-in-hand I would anticipate. Nobody's safe from senior crag policemen these days eh. And rightly so!

'Making up grades', overgrading and undergrading - the average of which is surely the right grade ? 

[grimer]

[/quote]

'Making up grades', overgrading and undergrading - the average of which is surely the right grade ? 
[/quote]

 

[Monolith]

 

Alright smart arses, I was referring to them as mutually exclusive terms. I think you fellows both know what I mean. It's for your own good anyway, I'm lowdown in the force.

[BenF]

Overgrading and undergrading - the average of which is surely the right grade ? 

Surely not if they're grades for different problems? 
Or do we apply an average across the crag... kinda like "Stanage - average difficulty: 6a+"

(Then again I'm not sure I actually know what the f*ck Monolith was on about in the first place)

[grimer]

Well, ultimately I must admit I'm of a different mindset from Lee, inasmuch as I can't really get in the least bit worked up about the fact that Rainbow found The Compressor very easy for V6, to the extent that it might only be a V3 or 4 or 5 or whatever. However, I am psyched that he had a great evening, which i think is a much more importanty fact.

Anyway, Rainbow, you supplied me with some of the grades for up there (obviously not for that one, or I wouldn't have had to go to all the trouble of guessing a random number  ) so I presume the others are right.

[Monolith]

Then again I'm not sure I actually know what the f*ck Monolith was on about in the first place

Do you know what Ben, I'll freely admit that even I don't know what the fuck I'm talking about today.

[webbo]

i try to to tell myself that grades don't matter its the quality of the problem that counts.however on saturdays trip to ogwen which resulted in many failures and much thrashing about.i recorded in my diary that the day wasn't a success,however after perusing n.w.b news archive i found that a problem i did as a last gasp get up something no matter how trivial turned out to be v6/7a suddenly the day didn't seem too bad.

[grimer]

Imagine how good you day would have seemed if I'd graded it.

[Pantontino]

Okay Webbo, so now I'm curious (I never did get the progress report from Swanny) - what did you flounder on , and what was the V6 you did at the end ? Just collecting feedback that's all, honest.

[a dense loner]

don't misunderstand me so fast grimer or i won't read your stories which freud would be proud of. just a little bugbear of mine with people grading on grit in summer etc. was meant to be a bit tongue in cheek, but not in the same way as irish's route in south quarry

[rainbow]

I am psyched that he had a great evening, which i think is a much more importanty fact.

Anyway, Rainbow, you supplied me with some of the grades for up there (obviously not for that one, or I wouldn't have had to go to all the trouble of guessing a random number  ) so I presume the others are right.

Its was a hard task for you to grade things up there as you can't ask around what people think cos few people go there.  Everything else seems pretty bang on to me with the exception of Hueco wall + eyes without a face on Back Tor. More like V4/5 or maybe they just suit my style. For me I wasn't questioning the grades just which line things took. I think everyone gets so focused on grades and forgets whats really important, Just getting out there and enjoying climbing whatever the grade. With views like this !!, there is no better way of spending a summers evening.

[fatdoc]

Then again I'm not sure I actually know what the f*ck Monolith was on about in the first place

Do you know what Ben, I'll freely admit that even I don't know what the fuck I'm talking about today.

lol.

fuckin great... thanks for the laughs mate!!

[webbo]

Okay Webbo, so now I'm curious (I never did get the progress report from Swanny) - what did you flounder on , and what was the V6 you did at the end ? Just collecting feedback that's all, honest.

caseg fraith was swimming under foot so it was really akward moving a round and to get warmed up without getting waterlogged shoes.swanny did o/j,s/x,o/y and b/y.i battled my way up o/j in style that defied medical science given my mature years.i also managed to land between the mats for nice damp landing.
gallt yr ogof
this was hot and sweaty as you said it would be,but we fancied a look any way.andy did regeneration after getting smacked on smackhead.it was full on in the sun though.he also did t/r and i did the 2 v4 aretes which felt about 3 grades easier than o/j.
we finished off at the pit or were finished of by the pit.i removed what skin i had left trying p/s and andy managed to slip off p/t and miss his postage stamp  size mat that he insists on bringing out.but seeing as he ended carrying both mats due to their waterlogged state,he having the only waterproof between us.just deserts.
we then did the s/s thing off the large sidepull on the crouchathon boulder.which you gave v6/7a in one of your news reports on n.w.b.this probably felt ok as it was the only thing all dat that didn't require hiddeous crimping.

[webbo]

Imagine how good you day would have seemed if I'd graded it.

as i have just renewed by b.m.c, membership can i suggest(demand)they change your job to the definative bouldering grade authority.

[andy_e]

Ogwen Jazz is totally desperate. How hard is it supposed to be? V3/4? It feels way harder than that.

[GCW]

Ogwen Jazz is totally desperate. How hard is it supposed to be? V3/4? It feels way harder than that.

Most problems feel harder when you are as weak as Andi 

[webbo]

Ogwen Jazz is totally desperate. How hard is it supposed to be? V3/4? It feels way harder than that.

it gets the bog standard v4/v5 grade.whatever that means.

[grimer]

Thanks for that Rainbow. And what grades were Hueco Wall and Eyes... And if they were more than three grades out, then don't post them up in case Dense sees them 

[rainbow]

Thanks for that Rainbow. And what grades were Hueco Wall and Eyes... And if they were more than three grades out, then don't post them up in case Dense sees them 

Hueco wall got V6 and Eyes without a face got V7. Me thinks more like V5 and V6. Both got quality moves. See you up there sometime.

[grimer]

Well god damn it, one out, that's not bad. If I can get that close without even touching the holds, makes me wonder why I bother climbing at all sometimes.

Cheers Rainbow, perhaps see you up there sometime then,

G

[a dense loner]

hueco wall V6 that's very nearly 3 grades

[Andy B]

....The description in the bmc guide says go directly from the slottled block in break to the sloping pod then top. This seems v easy for v6....

We had a day on the Derwent Edges on Satuday, and I wouldn't say this is that easy for V6. Granted the wall is easy but the scary, tricky mantel at the top more than makes up for it. Scouse had a particularly nasty fall when he slipped off the mantel and caught his heel on the ledge as he fell, flicking him backwards. Spooky stuff.

[rainbow]

....The description in the bmc guide says go directly from the slottled block in break to the sloping pod then top. This seems v easy for v6....

We had a day on the Derwent Edges on Satuday, and I wouldn't say this is that easy for V6. Granted the wall is easy but the scary, tricky mantel at the top more than makes up for it. Scouse had a particularly nasty fall when he slipped off the mantel and caught his heel on the ledge as he fell, flicking him backwards. Spooky stuff.

Yes, all the top outs on this block are scary. Took me a few visits before I could summon up the courage to commit. Had a good day up there back in Aug.

Playing on J Myers forgotten test piece Ripple Roof, V8ish. Can hold the crimps in roof but moving past them is another matter.



Just uploaded some old movies from up there onto Utube.

A different Start to Spartan.


The Ships Bow


Sidewall Scoop


Enjoy

[Andy B]

Where's Ripple Roof? That looks good. We considered that eliminate on Spartan but expected it to be a bit harder than you make it look in your video.

[grimer]

....The description in the bmc guide says go directly from the slottled block in break to the sloping pod then top. This seems v easy for v6....

We had a day on the Derwent Edges on Satuday, and I wouldn't say this is that easy for V6. Granted the wall is easy but the scary, tricky mantel at the top more than makes up for it. Scouse had a particularly nasty fall when he slipped off the mantel and caught his heel on the ledge as he fell, flicking him backwards. Spooky stuff.

Ha, so it's looking like my nine-sided dice came up on the right side after all. Stick that in your consternated pipe and smoke it, Dense.

[Andy B]

....The description in the bmc guide says go directly from the slottled block in break to the sloping pod then top. This seems v easy for v6....

We had a day on the Derwent Edges on Satuday, and I wouldn't say this is that easy for V6. Granted the wall is easy but the scary, tricky mantel at the top more than makes up for it. Scouse had a particularly nasty fall when he slipped off the mantel and caught his heel on the ledge as he fell, flicking him backwards. Spooky stuff.

Ha, so it's looking like my nine-sided dice came up on the right side after all. Stick that in your consternated pipe and smoke it, Dense.

Either that, or my grading scale, having climbed problems, is as innacurate as your grading scale, having guessed?

[grimer]

So you see. Climbing them is a waste of time!

[rainbow]

Where's Ripple Roof? That looks good. We considered that eliminate on Spartan but expected it to be a bit harder than you make it look in your video.

Ripple Roof is on the boulders ontop of Dovestone Tor, either side of the path. As is The Roof Of Mantles. There was a topo in Jason Myers peak plus guidebook if my memory serves me correctly.