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Wild In Me (Read 5547 times)

StuM

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Wild In Me
July 08, 2007, 11:18:50 am
OOooooh, this board hasn't been used for a while!

Went to the Tor for the first time in ages yesterday and had a play on Wild In Me. Its pushing my grade a little bit but feels like it'll go.... but ...  :please: has anyone got any beta for:

1) the move at the first bolt, was going right hand flake, left hand crimp and then couldn't geet my feet higher to move up to the good side pull flake.

2) the move to the peg, did the crimpy rockover at second bolt no problem, but then there is a tiny crimp and a gaston and some other holds. i got a bit confused by the selection and couldn't get a combination of them to work  ???

cheers!  :beer2:

Stu


reeve

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#1 Re: Wild In Me
July 08, 2007, 11:47:48 am
Alright there StuM, in return for the knowledge of how I did the moves any chance you could update me on it's current condition?

1. From left hand on razor edge and righthand on juggy part of lower sidepull flake... I dropped my left foot to the flat edge which is tucked inside a tiny right-facing groove; right foot up next to right hand on big slopey diagonal rail; right hand higher up flake it's already on, on to flat part; then right hand all over the top to good part of sidepull flake above left hand. Hurts left fingers on that breadknife flake but was only way I could do the move. My mate figured it out for the most part, with (minimal!) input from myself, so more knowledgeable Tor locals may have further useful beta.

2. Not certain which part exactly you mean? I'll speculate that you have got your right hand to the small flat edge just below a minor overlap? From there I put my left foot on a smeary hold and rocked out leftwards to a spiky sidepull, from where it is obvious where to go. Suspect that this may not be exactly where you are refferring to?

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#2 Re: Wild In Me
July 08, 2007, 11:53:54 am
I think its OK

............but not for routes as of 11am Sunday morning

StuM

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#3 Re: Wild In Me
July 08, 2007, 11:55:22 am
cheers, have some waddage!

it was in pretty good condition yesterday afternoon. the juggy part of the first flake and the 'breadknife' crimp (good description) were damp but nothing to worry about with some drying work.

I'll have a go at the crimp move with that sequence. to be honest, I'm not too sure what i mean at the top... I'll have a look at the holds and see how your description fits in!

reeve

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#4 Re: Wild In Me
July 08, 2007, 12:18:41 pm
Excellent, my first wadding, cheers!
I'm psyched to get back on this now you've reminded me. Let us know how you get on man.

John Cooke

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#5 Re: Wild In Me
July 09, 2007, 02:55:52 pm
Heya Stu,

The key beta i remember is a really deep egytian with your left foot for the low crux move. If you're tall you can span it off the jug but i couldn't reach this way. I think i crossed over onto a bad bad crimp with my right hand (left on the jug rail i think). Left drop knee and a big move out to a shit crimp with my left hand. Top's steady away, big rock overs i remember. Cold conditions will make the top crimps feel ok. If it's slightly warm they feel utterly shit.

Good luck with it!

J.

dave

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#6 Re: Wild In Me
July 09, 2007, 10:51:16 pm
don't know if this is any use but the top bit from the 2nd bolt to the peg goes like this:





good luck.

 

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