[Vitamin K]

Now I know pantotino posts on here and he was the author of the excellent article that I would like to read again but have inevitably lost. Was it titled Northern Soul (Sole)?

I was thinking the other day when on my board and leafing through some old (not at the same time of course and we are talking climbing mags please) mags that I would really like to read it again - Mr P do you still have a copy that is accessible? I found it really inspiring and it had some great photos too, particularly the 'Access Denied' photo, which I think is in the bouldering guide. It really motivated me to discover what Yorkshire had to offer.

God knows we all need some motivation with the weather out there.

[GCW]

I remember that vaguely.  I'd be interested to read it again too.
Is it my imagination or has it rained every day for over a month?

[BenF]

Apparently it has rained at some point every day since June 11th.  Although I don't know exactly where that statistic refers to since globally that seems about normal. 

Not much of a statistic really, but that's what someone told me yesterday.  Even non-climbers are starting to get on to the fact that it's bloody shit weather at the moment (normally it's just me and my climbing friends that are whinging and moaning that weather is never quite right...  too hot, too humid, not windy enough, not cold enough etc).

[Pantontino]

I wrote that article for Climber magazine back in 1997. It was called (rather cheesily) 'My Generation'. I've got a copy of the mag right here. It's a little over wrought, but amusing all the same.

I did put a list of great unclimbed lines in it and it is interesting to note which have or haven't been done:

1. The obvious blankish wall in the Lost Boots area at Ilkley (became I am Curious Yellow 7c+ by Ben Moon in 2000)

2. The arete right of Cocoa Team Direct at Rylestone (still a project?)

3. The chest high roof and leaning wall and ramp below the right hand monument at Earl (became Underworld 7c+ by Ben Moon in 2000)

4. The faint groove in the wall opposite the Egg boulder at Almscliff (became Pistol Whip 7c by Matt Goode in 2000)

5. The steep line right of the descent route on the Egg boulder (had already been done as Matt's Roof 7c by Matt Birch in 1995)

6. The Hanging groove 20 yards right of To Bolt or Not To Be at Caley (became Mini Matti 7c by Christian Durkin/Andy Swann in 2000, although I had top roped it previously)

7. The finger tip undercut arch at the right hand side of the crag at Slipstones (still a project)

8. The right hand line on Jason's Roof at Crookrise (became Sideline 8a by Tim Clifford in 2003)

9. The full Joker's Wall Traverse at Brimham (became Ironside 8a+ by Andy Swann)

10. The Joker done from a low start (became The Ace 8b by Jerry Moffatt)


Maybe some Yorkshire local should post a current top ten project list. I'll start it off:

1. The obvious roof line at Lord's Seat

2. ?

[Stubbs]

The arete to the right of Cocoa team is the most obvious one I know about, an awesome line, with what looks like some very hard moves way off the deck.  Has seen intermittent interest ground up from a few local wads, but really needs abbing and cleaning up probably, as it's quite gritty.

How hard/quality did the roof at Lord's seat look?  Been meaining to check this out for a while.

[cofe]

I wrote that article for Climber magazine back in 1997. It was called (rather cheesily) 'My Generation'. I've got a copy of the mag right here. It's a little over wrought, but amusing all the same.

I did put a list of great unclimbed lines in it and it is interesting to note which have or haven't been done:

1. The obvious blankish wall in the Lost Boots area at Ilkley (became I am Curious Yellow 7c+ by Ben Moon in 2000)

2. The arete right of Cocoa Team Direct at Rylestone (still a project?)

3. The chest high roof and leaning wall and ramp below the right hand monument at Earl (became Underworld 7c+ by Ben Moon in 2000)

4. The faint groove in the wall opposite the Egg boulder at Almscliff (became Pistol Whip 7c by Matt Goode in 2000)

5. The steep line right of the descent route on the Egg boulder (had already been done as Matt's Roof 7c by Matt Birch in 1995)

6. The Hanging groove 20 yards right of To Bolt or Not To Be at Caley (became Mini Matti 7c by Christian Durkin/Andy Swann in 2000, although I had top roped it previously)

7. The finger tip undercut arch at the right hand side of the crag at Slipstones (still a project)

8. The right hand line on Jason's Roof at Crookrise (became Sideline 8a by Tim Clifford in 2003)

9. The full Joker's Wall Traverse at Brimham (became Ironside 8a+ by Andy Swann)

10. The Joker done from a low start (became The Ace 8b by Jerry Moffatt)


Maybe some Yorkshire local should post a current top ten project list. I'll start it off:

1. The obvious roof line at Lord's Seat

2. ?

nice use of font grades si

[uptown]

wall left of pok-a-tok at guisecliff

[Vitamin K]

(normally it's just me and my climbing friends that are whinging and moaning that weather is never quite right...  too hot, too humid, not windy enough, not cold enough etc).

First rule of bouldering failure - blame the conditions.

[BenF]

First rule of bouldering failure - blame the conditions.

Second rule of bouldering failure - blame the hard session on the board/crag/pills that you had the previous evening (and that no-one witnessed).

[GCW]

Third rule of bouldering failure- Never talk about bouldering failure.

[BenF]

What failure?  I was talking hypothetically. 

[Vitamin K]

Third rule of bouldering failure- Never talk about bouldering failure.

If I were to fail or have failed I would probably blame the conditions