[fashionguru]

Mike Adams was on this last year from a sitter.

Think he said a little harder than N's wall but not as hard as RV

Dont know if this is any help but I reckon maybe hard 7c+

Tony S

[dave]

I deffo have a hazy memory of dolph saying he'd done that move, did he every work out the sitter tony?

[fashionguru]

Cant quite remember Dave, I seam to think he did, but I will ask next time I speak with him.

Great looking problem from watch Mike climb it.

[Dolph]

Its not really news but this seems the place to mention this to those who like to crimp. I was a beginners wall this morning with Tony S for the first time for a long time. I managed to do the direct to the swing time jug from a sit start. This goes into the crappy crimps and then lurches for the Swing Time spike, exactly as the stand up mentioned. The crux is getting both hands established on the crimps which is tricky.

I think being a stone lighter than usual helped with this over last year? Oh and beginners was in the best condition i have ever seen which probably helped too.

Not only do i feel like i finished some unfinished buisness but its nice that this little wall feels a bit more complete now

[Johnny Brown]

Jeez, Mike, not you dieting too?

[c.j.d.]

I looked at this last Saturday - very grim, conditions wise.  The topo on UKB states 7c+ for the stand up (crap crimps to spike) Is this correct?  Does this mean the sitter goes at around 8a (again, I seem to remember pretty big footholds, possibly allowing for balancing out the match well)?

Good effort anyhow, those crimps are shite.

Also, RV climbed on the left at 8a - this was pretty hard to work out - obvious for hands, but whats in/out for your feet to get the tick?

[Andy B]

I did Recreational Violence Left Hand with my feet pretty much directly underneath my body the whole way.

Nice one on the sitter to the crimps problem Mike. I am keen to do this, but have never found the starting holds dry enough. Did you use the mono in the break for your right hand?

[Dolph]

No I'm not dieting! The weight loss was do to a bug i had last week which knocked me for six and when i came out the other end i was a stone lighter. A much easier way to lose weight but i wouldn't recommend it!

I don't recall a mono in a break?? Its hard to describe the starting holds i used, but its quite easy to pull up and get to the crimps with one hand because of the large footholds mentioned. It just feels hard to get established on them because they are small and your feet start to feel too far under you.

Grade wise i don't really have a clue i suppose it felt harder than advanced training which is next door. 

[a dense loner]

i'm not interested in this shit boulder problem but rather your shits. did you get them at andy's bbq? i had another to go to straight after but spent over 2 hours on the toilet! that said i was very light the next day

[Dolph]

i've come to expect nothing less from you lee! (Although hanging the crimp holds does feel a bit like your on a finger board?

No i didn't get ill from andys party, it was well after that and i think a lot worse than food poisening.

[r-man]

Polish Dave climbed a new line at the Tor today. Straight up from the first big lip hold on Keen Roof, via a couple of small crimps, to finish on jugs. Name and grade: Hook, 7c.

Would make a desperate direct finish for Keen Roof...

[andy_e]

Someone get Nacho back!

[dave]

Polish Dave climbed a new line at the Tor today. Straight up from the first big lip hold on Keen Roof, via a couple of small crimps, to finish on jugs. Name and grade: Hook, 7c.

Would make a desperate direct finish for Keen Roof...

word has he finshed off KR yet?

[r-man]

Nope, it's becoming a bit of an epic. Close, but nary a cigar. Hopefully soon.

[robertostallioni]

doctrine

[r-man]

Me n Dave did possibly another new one at the Tor - as for Weedkiller, but finish up the unobvious line between Basher's problem and Weedkiller finish, to gain the big flake beneath the roof. May have been done before, but the holds were all dusty and most people aren't this desperate. Quite nice though. Name and grade, Weedfiller, 7b.

Oh yes, and I might have left my hat at raven tor, so if anyone spots it, please hang on to it for me. Ta.

[fashionguru]

Hi Rman,

Think this has been done before as i can rember being shown this back in the day. But good name for it.

NEW PROBLEMS AT Begginers Wall

Mike Adams (who else) on Saturday completed what is probably the only 2 lines left unclimbed.

1. Aurora Fb 7c

Climb the wall to the right of the grove (right of RV).
SS as for Dans prob but then head left and up the imposing overhanging wall via a heel hook, side pulls and crimps to gain the obvious 2 large edges.  *** climbing according to Mike.

2 Neils Wall RH  Fb8a

The wall to the right of NW vial a ss, the triangle crimp, toe hook and slot.
looks hard and impossible if your short.



Pics are on my face book for anyone who knows me or Mike and if you can link them please do.

Cheers

Tony

[Richie Crouch]

As your requested T

Aurora





Neil's Wall RH





Psyched for the Peak Lime and good to see Vixen waiting patiently for her stick (that is likely placed just where Mike will land if he fails!) 

[fashionguru]

Cheers for that Richie,

and your not wrong the stick is best placed for anal exam if a bad landing occurred.

T

[n_man]

Neils Wall RH sounds bloody hard for 8a. How long did it take Mike cos he's a stone lighter than normal and climbing well?

[fashionguru]

He did the stand up in one session thinking this would be the hard part and had done lots of stuff earlier so did not get the ss that day.

Second session on was Saturday and he cleaned tried and did Aurora before jumping on this.

I think it will be harder knowing Mike well and how he so confused when it comes to grades. He wanted to give it 7c+ but i talked him out of that.

It is a pretty long reach for the toe hook and to gain the slot, so any mortal at 6ft or under i dont think stands a chance.

He says harder than RV but then easier than some of the other stuff he has done recently like the 7c at fossil wall so 8a it was.

hope this helps to confuse you even more (i know i am)

T

[r-man]

More (possibly) new stuff at the Tor. Dave climbed a direct finish to the cave problem – sitstart as for that, then instead of heading to the Weedkiller jug, finish straight up at a jug next to the bolt - Shades of Grey, 7c+.

I linked Weedkiller into the finish of this – Wee Dimension, 7b+

Also, I linked the cave problem ss into Basher's problem, via Perverse Reverse. Has anyone done this before? It's a brilliant set of moves, especially as it turns out you can do Basher's without the nasty crimp. If no-one's done this before, I think it deserves a name - Tumbleweed, 7c+.

[dave]

nice one - i tried that Shades Of Grey a couple of years ago but thought i was going to snap my leg in the heeltoe.

[slackline]

nice one - i tried that Shades Of Grey a couple of years ago but thought i was going to snap my leg in the heeltoe.

Should have used your foot instead 

[dave]

luckily my heel and toe are part of my foot......