[dave]

 me and scouse had a look and would try it again when the starting pocket is dry. mick adams did it though, i think he said it was harder than Neil's Wall Sitter but easier than the Recreational Violence Lefthand problem.

just out of interest once you'd gained the Man of Steel holds, did you put foot on the jug out left for the next move (as per the stardup) or do it some other way?

[travs]

The pocket was wet when I did it as well so I just stuffed chalk on it each time. I didn't use the big ledge out left, but that might be a height thing. Out of interest did he have to build his feet up like me or could he leave his feet on the lower starting foot holds?

[dave]

from your writeup it looks like you used the same ones. do the first move then bump left foot up onto a higher cleaned edge etc.

it also looks like you'd be able to do something starting LH in the wet pocket then blasting up and slightly right.

[travs]

Thank god for that, I don't like it when you tall boys come a long and trash my moves.

You're right about the right hand variant. I have dabbled on this but the problem right again is my main focus at the moment. Standing start, pull on with the crappy crimps and lurch for the Swing Time spike. I really don't know hard this will be, I can only just pull on at the moment.

[(woz)]

Have you guys got any pictures to tease me with whilst i'm stuck away from the lime?

[travs]

When you say tease, do you mean naked ladies, lesbians kissing......

[dave]

hows about a pair of hot semi-nekkid dungaree-wearers playing tonsil lacrosse at rubicon?

[travs]

Now you're talking, which problems are they hanging off?

[dave]

hot fun.

[travs]

 

Very Good

[(woz)]

Something at beginners wall would be better, unless you were serious about the dungarees...

[travs]

There are a couple here, I can't post the final link but navigate as follows :

Go to :

http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/home.htm

Then under brands click on Red Chill, then sponsored climbers, then UK sponsored climbers, then Neil Travers click here to read more....

[Andy B]

Paul's exact words were : "it's a pathetic little one move thing.  just to right of love of money.  can't remember what holds it uses.  two poorish ones up to a sloping break thing?"

I don't know where that route is, so I just guessed it must go up from the juggy ledge somewhere. Andy B reckoned it did.

I haven't tried what I thought must be Paul's thing, but on looking at that piece of the wall last time I was there with Cheekbones, I thought the only plausible line it must take is just right of the corner (of Love of Money...?) from low, into a poorish looking pinch block, probably matching on something poor near here, and reaching up and right into the slopey left hand end of the big break. This is to the left of the nice undercuts usually used to reach into the break. This could be totally wrong as I haven't even pulled on, but I couldn't see anywhere else it could go, between Love of Money and the undercuts dave mentions. If it's right it looks a decent line.

[Scouse D]

All there is that matches that description are 'warm-up' problems. The basic line using everything is about 6c, the hardest about 7a+. Dave and Myself have climbed on this bit of rock a lot and there is nothing of 7b+ standard there.

[Andy B]

All there is that matches that description are 'warm-up' problems. The basic line using everything is about 6c, the hardest about 7a+. Dave and Myself have climbed on this bit of rock a lot and there is nothing of 7b+ standard there.

Interesting. What I described looked harder than 6c, but it's always hard to tell just by looking. Paul has obviously done something on that bit of rock and he doesn't seem prone to overgrading. Assuming then that it's an eliminate, it could do anything. Saying the hardest eliminate on there is 7a+ is a bold statement to make.

[Scouse D]

Fair enough! You could eliminate the footholds then you'd be fucked.

[(woz)]

I went and did "Advanced Training" this morning, using the same sequence as you (Neil). Its a really good move, made all the more tricky by the ever-damp pocket. For someone of my height (6ft on the button), its probably only 7c+ though. Keep us updated on the project...

[Andy B]

I went and did Advanced Training as well today. Nice holds and moves. I also did what I thought would be Paul's problem, but, as Scouse said, this is no where near 7b+. It is a good problem though: from the juggy ledge to a sidepull/undercut pinch, then up to two slopers and reach right to the juggy ledge. I haven't got a scoobies what Paul's problem could be.

Dutch and I also did a couple of new problems about 50 metres down the road from Sean's Roof. On the same side of the road, is a large low amphitheatre of rock. This is mostly easy and blocky. On the left hand side is a roof. The left hand side of this roof is a juggy 6a problem. The centre of the roof, from jugs at the back reaching into flake holds then blocky holds just under the lip by bridging on the plinth to the right. Cut loose and do a couple of fun moves to turn the lip, then pull up jugs to tickle the tree above. 7a? We had fun, but it isn't as good as anything else in the dale, I wouldn't rush to do it, unless your in Blackwell Dale and stuck for something to play on.

[travs]

Nice one woz, thought it might be a bit easier if you were a bit taller than me, anyway it's all about the quality of the move not the difficulty so pleased to here you enjoyed it.

[travs]

I was at beginners wall last night and met n-man. He told me about a 7a problem through a roof in a small bay up near Sean's roof. Basically walk down from Sean's roof and then up the bank on the same side of the road. Start at the back on the obvious large hold and follow hand holds straight out in the crack to a really hard footless move to get round the lip with feet circling round right on the wall of the roof as far as the footless move. It's no way 7a it's more like 7b+/7c so I don't know if holds have come off, I know I pulled off a nice sharp 3 finger hold near the lip which made things a grade harder. Anybody know anything about this problem name grade etc? It's actually quite a good problem and just about worth the bash through the nettles.

[Andy B]

I was at beginners wall last night and met n-man. He told me about a 7a problem through a roof in a small bay up near Sean's roof. Basically walk down from Sean's roof and then up the bank on the same side of the road. Start at the back on the obvious large hold and follow hand holds straight out in the crack to a really hard footless move to get round the lip with feet circling round right on the wall of the roof as far as the footless move. It's no way 7a it's more like 7b+/7c so I don't know if holds have come off, I know I pulled off a nice sharp 3 finger hold near the lip which made things a grade harder. Anybody know anything about this problem name grade etc? It's actually quite a good problem and just about worth the bash through the nettles.

Are my posts invisible to you travs? 

[travs]

Oh come on Andy B I've got better things to do than troll through 5 pages of Peak Lime additions reading every post. Give me a clue - please

[Andy B]

Try the post above yours (three posts up).

[travs]

Fair play - that wasn't exactly hidden was it

What were the holds like on the lip to make the footless move when you did the problem? Last night I ended up with left hand on undercut halfway through roof, right on poor sloping pinch thing, feet off. Spin and left hand comes to nothing thing left of left hand then move left hand again round lip - pretty stiff move.

[Andy B]

With our hands the same as yours, we then cutloose and inverted to face out, left foot in the break then right foot toe hooking round the lip, and twisted round to get good holds above the lip with our left, to carefully campus to the tree.

While we are on, I did Advanced Training with the same holds but a totally different sequence:

Starting left hand in the 1/2 finger pocket, I did a big cross through to the nice vertical 2/3 finger slot that you used for your left thumb, stepped my left foot up onto the higher edge, and locked off to reach holds on Man of Steel with my left hand. Really nice flowing moves on nice holds.