[dave]

Yesterday i had the misfortune of being forced to go to a work "away day" type thing, which was shit last year. I signed myself down for a workshop on Tai Chi, thinking i'd be learning a foreign language. Turned out its actually some kund-fu chinese hand-waving thing. "it was a little bit frightening".

As you might imagine i was sceptical, but in the end it turned out to be alright, and seemed to be good for flexibility and movement, and the guy in charge ("he fought with expert timing") was on about stuff like chanelling force through the floor to maintain your movement when under force. Souded like it would be the shit for slab climbing, and in general good for warming-up and flexibility - so i might try some stretches based on what we did next tiem I'm at the crag. Has anyone else come accross Tai Chi, what did you think, and do you recon it would be in any way beneficial (even as a placebo) for climbing? Bo.

[Bubba]

Don't know all that much about it, but an old mate of mine swears by it as an alternative to Yoga, as a means of relaxing and keeping flexible, etc.

It is supposedly the "dealiest martial art" when done at full speed, but to attain the skillz to use it as a fighting art will take many years. It seems a lot of people study it for the spiritual aspects.

Good little overview here http://www.denner.org/reinhard/neijia/about/history.html

[dobbin]

The 'dealiest'? does that mean you find most dealers are into it?

[Bubba]

Smartass  :D

[mark]

It is supposedly the "dealiest martial art" when done at full speed

Sounds dubious to me. It's like saying that if you spend long enough really learning to use big holds properly then you'll be fierce on small holds.

Martial arts? Wearing pyjamas and being shouted at and punched in a wooden-floored gym? Bunch of perverts if you ask me!

[Bubba]

I think it's all about form and the use of energy. More like if there was a way of practicing dynos in slow motion so you got them perfect, then you'd be good at them full speed.

After a week in Barcelona I actually really miss being grabbed and lobbed about by pyjama clad nutters - It's great and makes you feel superb afterwards - I'm not allowed to wear jamas yet coz I'm still sub white belt scum, but can't wait 'til I can.

[mark]

if there was a way of practicing dynos in slow motion so you got them perfect, then you'd be good at them full speed.

But you wouldn't, because anything dynamic is all about timing and doing it slowly means the timing has completely changed.

Compare a slow lap of Cadwell - perfect lines, spot-on braking points, every apex clipped - with a fast lap - fall off at the Gooseneck. Lots of the former doesn't equip you to do the latter!

[Bubba]

You don't just do it slowly for ages and then suddenly start doing it super fast. You do it slowly to get the form perfect, and then do it faster and faster until it's automatic and super fast, which is exactly how I'd approach riding at a new track.

Anyway, it's only you and Richie P who crash at the Gooseneck  :wink:

shit, why did I go and say that?!

[mark]

Anyway, it's only you and Richie P who crash at the Gooseneck  :wink:
shit, why did I go and say that?!

Got some trackday action booked?

[Bubba]

Am planning on getting Johnny (of Lu & Johnny) out on his big ole gsxr 1100 on a track day so not booked, but fancy one soon. He's also got a big Toyota Hi-Lux for easy transport of the bikes.

Question is Oulton? Cadwell? Donny? Perhaps Donnington as I've never ridder there.....

[Pantontino]

So you reckon that martial arts are perverse?

...and rubbing your hands on bits of rock until they bleed is not?

[mark]

Hey, Panton, shut up and get back in your cage. You know you're not allowed out until the guide is released!

[Johnny Brown]

Mark wrote:

'if you spend long enough really learning to use big holds properly then you'll be fierce on small holds'

It worked for me.

Climbing in trainers is similarly good. After a few days pedalling you start learning how to use your body position to make your feet stick, rather than relying on the 5.10. Nah dats the shit fer slabs.

[mark]

So you reckon that martial arts are perverse?

...and rubbing your hands on bits of rock until they bleed is not?

Sorry for the earlier abuse!

I'm so perverted about rubbing my hands on rock that I am investigating the purchase of a pair of tight-fitting ladies leather gloves with which to do battle with Zippy's traverse of the Cowperstone. But don't tell anyone because I think it might be cheating. And being a pervert's only natural but being a cheat is unforgiveable!

[dobbin]

You don't just do it slowly for ages and then suddenly start doing it super fast. You do it slowly to get the form perfect, and then do it faster and faster until it's automatic and super fast, which is exactly how I'd approach riding at a new track.

If any of you numpties had read Eric Horst's training for Climbing that Gollum and I were bleating on about some time ago then you'd know that there are three stages to Motor learning - cognitive, (thinking about the activity, listening to explanations of it, imagining it) where attempts are clumsy, inefficient and jerky, Motor stage, where moves become easier as the technique is learned, you can do things more efficiently and finally the Autonomous stage where actions become almost automatic and require no concious attention.

[Bubba]

If any of you numpties....

Which is just what I'm saying you insolent punk !

[mark]

What I was objecting to earlier in the thread was the implication that Tai Chi, arm-waving, aura-massaging types could suddenly be transformed from pyjama-wearing softies to fists-of-death ninjas by flicking from 33 to 78 rpm (don't ask, infants!). Of course you need to gradually build up speed.

Numpties? Have you read Eric Hort's 'Training For Flogging Loads Of Books About The Obvious To Gumbies'?

[(woz)]

channgin the subject slightly, i found since i started playin bass my hands got much more supple and it prevented any climbers claw hands type thing from happening. it also stoppped my recurrent hand/tendon problems.

[dobbin]

Numpties? Have you read Eric Hort's 'Training For Flogging Loads Of Books About The Obvious To Gumbies'?

I'm not sure I'm aware of Mr Hort's work, perhaps you could lend me your copy when you have finished with it. Mr Horst on the other hand has some useful advice especially if you read more than the preface. Admittedly much of Mr Horst's advice is elimentary but theres still some value to be gained from reading the book.

Love and Hugs,

Gumbie #1

[mark]

Numpties? Have you read Eric Hort's 'Training For Flogging Loads Of Books About The Obvious To Gumbies'?

I'm not sure I'm aware of Mr Hort's work, perhaps you could lend me your copy when you have finished with it. Mr Horst on the other hand has some useful advice especially if you read more than the preface. Admittedly much of Mr Horst's advice is elimentary but theres still some value to be gained from reading the book.

Love and Hugs,

Gumbie #1

I am currently working my way through Mr Hort's epic 'How To Type Quickly And Make Lots Of Miftages', but once I have finished it I'll be glad to lend you everything I have by him.

I will admit to only having flicked through a couple of Horst's books but the impression I came away with was that he has a fondness for circuit training which is at odds with what the best climbers I know get up to.

Hoover Lugs,
Numptie #1