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Welsh Highballs (Read 12194 times)

sharkey

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#25 Re: Welsh Highballs
June 20, 2007, 09:27:40 pm
A little crass i know, to ask the grade, but i need to know whether i have some chance of doing it! a wild guess 7a+, it looks Stella.

fatneck

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#26 Re: Welsh Highballs
June 20, 2007, 09:41:29 pm
Quote from: sharkey
where is what is Viking Invasion

Go to the RAC boulders, stand at the start of The Pump Traverse I think and look directly up the hillside. You should not be able to miss the bold, high arete.

Quote from: sharkey
A little crass I know, to ask the grade...

Is V5 from the block and solid Font7a from low down to the left (according to Rich and Ben I think). Watch for the "amazing disappearing act" (performed by the delightfull Oya) that befalls those whose left foot skids off.
I was convinced we'd find her completely broken at the bottom of the boulderfield  :o

BenF

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#27 Re: Welsh Highballs
June 21, 2007, 08:07:11 am
Is V5 from the block and solid Font7a from low down to the left (according to Rich and Ben I think).

I pretty much agree with the grade suggested on NWB.  Solid 6c+ from the ground (cheating starting off the block on the right probably knocked half a grade off and is still worth while if you can't do the first moves on the left or more to the point can't manage the hard move right off the arete).  Total classic problem though, one of the best of it's grade I've done in North Wales and very good for the soul.

Monolith

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#28 Re: Welsh Highballs
June 21, 2007, 11:08:44 am
Viking Invasion is one of the most stunning lines around. Admittedly I can't see what those images look like on my work PC, but it has on be one of the best aretes in the UK.

Pantontino

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#29 Re: Welsh Highballs
June 21, 2007, 11:48:42 am
I said I'd be back with more. Check this daddy out:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=282


BenF

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#30 Re: Welsh Highballs
June 21, 2007, 12:02:58 pm
I said I'd be back with more. Check this daddy out:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=282

Oh yeah, that looks wicked.  I think I noticed that a little while ago but didn't climb it, it certainly looks familiar and I have explored the area that you say it's in.  I shall climb it next time I'm in Ogwen.  Thanks for the link.

Monolith

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#31 Re: Welsh Highballs
June 21, 2007, 12:03:25 pm
That looks brilliant. Seemingly a human database of untouched boulders, the man sure has an acute eye for a line.

jimbo

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#32 Re: Welsh Highballs
June 21, 2007, 12:23:53 pm
That does indeed look quality. Photographs like that remind me why bouldering in north wales is the best. You cant beat heading out into the mountains on a sunny day. I havent climbed for a couple of years through injury but its cool problems in awesome locations like that which get me psyched to get through the injury and get involved again. cant fucking wait.

mark

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#33 Re: Welsh Highballs
June 21, 2007, 12:55:11 pm
Viking Invasion looks great.

What about Monkey See at Milestone Buttress? High enough to have scared me off the couple of times I've been to try.

LL55

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#34 Re: Welsh Highballs
June 21, 2007, 01:13:21 pm
Just to get people up there for a second ascent of  The Passage of Time - here's some more photos from the first ascent. Dead nice looking line, excellent looking moves, and the required Ogwen landing.... hop to it!






« Last Edit: June 21, 2007, 01:22:08 pm by LL55 »

Scouse D

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#35 Re: Welsh Highballs
June 21, 2007, 03:08:29 pm
That looks awesome. Psyched to get to Wales again soon and check these newer areas out.
On the highball note Yeeha behind pen-y-pass youth hostel is high and very good with a great deal of commitment required for the last move. So close to the road yet so little attention...

BenF

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#36 Re: Welsh Highballs
June 21, 2007, 03:20:03 pm
What about Monkey See at Milestone Buttress?

Yeah, I guess any off that block are worth including.  Have tried Saturn and have done Monkey Do so far.

On the highball note Yeeha behind pen-y-pass youth hostel is high and very good with a great deal of commitment required for the last move.

Yup, that's on my list of things to do in the near future.

Just to get people up there for a second ascent of  The Passage of Time - here's some more photos from the first ascent.

Thanks for the cool photos.  I'm psyched for that problem and shall be hopefully heading up to try and climb it this weekend.

Johnny Brown

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#37 Re: Welsh Highballs
June 21, 2007, 06:01:26 pm
Shit, anymore of this and I might actually consider going bouldering when in Snowdonia!

cofe

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#38 Re: Welsh Highballs
June 21, 2007, 06:23:20 pm
That looks awesome. Psyched to get to Wales again soon and check these newer areas out.
On the highball note Yeeha behind pen-y-pass youth hostel is high and very good with a great deal of commitment required for the last move. So close to the road yet so little attention...

ha ha. are you the only person to have done the big three?
1. Yeeha
2. Elephantitus
3. LRP

Paz

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#39 Re: Welsh Highballs
June 21, 2007, 06:26:10 pm
I take it no amount of pads is going to make the landing underneath Beginner's Mind tolerable?

Scouse D

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#40 Re: Welsh Highballs
June 21, 2007, 06:59:56 pm



ha ha. are you the only person to have done the big three?
1. Yeeha
2. Elephantitus
3. LRP
4. Boysen's roof ss

....and yes, I believe I am.

Doylo

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#41 Re: Welsh Highballs
June 21, 2007, 08:35:19 pm



ha ha. are you the only person to have done the big three?
1. Yeeha
2. Elephantitus
3. LRP
4. Boysen's roof ss

....and yes, I believe I am.

Here you go Dave



BenF

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#43 Re: Welsh Highballs
June 22, 2007, 08:28:20 am
Good stuff Simon, thanks for the links.  I shall be updating my guide later as I'd missed out those things up by Disobedience.  The thing in Bethesda is something that I've been meaning to seek out for a while because it does look really good, so thanks for pointing that one out again too.

I now have a growing list to work through over the next few weeks when not in situ on a bolt at Pen Trwyn or shuffling at Woodwell:

Including in no particular order:

Heinous Hone
Spikefull
Disobedience
Yeeha
The Passage of Time
Pesda Roc
Saturn
Solace Arete
Willy Two Goes
Ain't no Party

 

cofe

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#44 Re: Welsh Highballs
June 22, 2007, 10:55:19 am



ha ha. are you the only person to have done the big three?
1. Yeeha
2. Elephantitus
3. LRP
4. Boysen's roof ss



the fourth in the trilogy. how could i forget.

andy popp

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#45 Re: Welsh Highballs
June 22, 2007, 05:43:00 pm
The Pebble (Utopia) looked pretty high (and good) to me. What's it like?

Jim

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#46 Re: Welsh Highballs
June 22, 2007, 05:58:36 pm
high and good suprisingly. get to it

andy popp

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#47 Re: Welsh Highballs
June 22, 2007, 06:59:02 pm
Walked right into that one. Will try and refrain from asking for beta, whether its soft/hard etc. etc.

BenF

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#48 Re: Welsh Highballs
June 23, 2007, 01:05:24 pm
The Pebble is great.  Watch the little rock beneath it if you decide to slip off a foothold and miss your mat.  I nearly bust my knee when I slipped, missed my badly placed pad and spotter and then slid on the grass.  Rarely have I experienced such pain as when my patella connected with the pointy rock.  I think I cried.

However, as I just said, the problem is great and worth checking out.  Nice technical moves and a finish that needs composure.

Pantontino

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#49 Re: Welsh Highballs
June 25, 2007, 12:06:14 pm
...and a note of caution. just spoke to Ding Dong; he went to the Cave on Friday night to try the Director's Cut - Upper Cut link. He slipped off the DC crux (going into the shothole) and hit the deck without a pad, landing on his hand. Turns out it's broken in a couple of places. 6 weeks in a caste apparently. :(

 

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