[BenF]

I've always got a lot of satisfaction from problems that think they're routes and after climbing some rather special highballs in North Wales yesterday, I got thinking about a ticklist of the best Welsh highball problems. 

Here's my starters for the list, feel free to add to them and I shall spend my summer scaring myself witless.

Idwal Cottage Arete.  Did this yesterday and it instantly became one of my favourite ever problems.  (unfortunately we didn't a have a car to spot from, nor did we have any kicking tunes blasting out.  Just tranquility I'm afraid).

Viking Invasion, RAC boulders.  Also did this yesterday and it's total class from start to finish.  Go do it if you haven't already, but take a pad or two.

Made in Heaven.  Obviously.

Throbbin's Arete.

Solace Arete. 

Got me over.  Not the best problem but a good highball nonetheless.

Now I'm figuring that something on the Mallory Boulder should be in there but I've never been up there.  And presumably that high thing up behind Sundowner.   Perhaps plus something easy from the Pont y Gromlech slabs.

[Fiend]

Willy Two Goes?

The Seam?

some of the far stuff at Ysgo?

[Johnny Brown]

How is Made in Heaven a highball?

[Adam Lincoln]

Solice arete isnt really highball.....?

[BenF]

How is Made in Heaven a highball?

Solice arete isnt really highball.....?

Yeah, I was expecting to be picked up on those two but felt I should add something from the Lleyn and included MIH because many people seem think it's highball rather than just higher than most things in Wales.  Then I included Solace because it's got a pretty awful landing (I know that alone doesn't make a highball, but it adds a "highball" feel) and I want to climb it... which is partially the purpose of this list (other than just being a discussion about ones we've done).

[BenF]

Willy Two Goes?

The Seam?

some of the far stuff at Ysgo?

Willy Two Goes is something I haven't done yet and when I did try it I chickened out because I thought I was in for a nasty fall, so maybe it should go in.

The Seam is about ten foot high above a perfect landing.  If it was roughly that height with a dodgy landing then I reckon it would have a highball feel.

I'm trying to think of Porth Ysgo stuff but have drawn a blank other than the ones I suggested.  Maybe the routes on the back of the MIH boulder?

[Teaboy]

Eggmeat in the Pass

[BenF]

Eggmeat in the Pass

Where is that? 

[Johnny Brown]

Johnny's seam left of The Ysgo crack is a good highball, bit escapable though.

[BenF]

Johnny's seam left of The Ysgo crack is a good highball, bit escapable though.

Strangely enough I don't know that one, despite knowing Porth Ysgo very well.  I shall seek it out.

[Pantontino]

It's called Johnny's Slab (p243 in the guide - I'm presuming you have a copy with you at all times )

Disobedience V7/7a+ is the highball arete close to Sundowner.

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=104

How about Uppercut V8/+/7b/+ in the cave? Flat landing, but horizontal body position a long way off the deck.

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=154

I'll be back later with some more...

[BenF]

It's called Johnny's Slab (p243 in the guide - I'm presuming you have a copy with you at all times )

Of course, if JB had only said!   

I don't need a copy of the guide with me at all times, I pretty much know it off by heart.

Disobedience I do want to do and will add to my list.  That's the one I was thinking of behind Sundowner, it looks great but I've never been up there with a spotter and more than one pad.  I also thought a Cave problem should be in there, but since I hate the place, I won't be doing it I'm afraid.

Thanks for the input so far guys. 

[cofe]

good problem that Johnny's wall.

mallory crack has a highball finish but not sure it's a highball per se.

[Doylo]

yeah mallory crack is high but not really a highball boulder problem as the top out is about v diff. Ain't No Party Like a Pil Box Party 7a+ is a bit highball and has some lush holds.

[BenF]

Thanks, I've not made it up to the Mallory Boulder yet (one of the last pages in the guide that I've yet to visit).
 

Ain't No Party Like a Pil Box Party 7a+ is a bit highball and has some lush holds.

Checked Pill Box Wall out again the other day whilst doing routes round the corner.  It's a strange piece of rock that seems to often be damp when everything else is bone dry and last week was no exception.  Yellow Wall and Black Wall were dry, but Pill Box felt greasy as hell.  In my many years of climbing at Pen Trwyn I've still yet to boulder on Pill Box Wall but I promise to actually try something there soon (even though the problems don't top out  ).


 

[Doylo]

Its also often dry when alll else is wet, i spent many days there last winter. Let me know if you want the guided tour.

[Monolith]

I'm intending to live to live at Pill Box in the coming winter months until I've done everything. Join me Ben.

[BenF]

Its also often dry when alll else is wet, i spent many days there last winter. Let me know if you want the guided tour.

I'd figured it would have regular dry days in the winter too, given the wind it receives.  Thanks for the offer, you may get taken up on it at some point I'm afraid!

Join me Ben.

What, are you starting a cult?

[Monolith]

Yes, a cult of Pill Box Heads

[Pantontino]

Count me in for the winter run. I've said it before, but I'll say it again: Ain't No Party direct (with the jumping start) is one of the best problems I have ever done, anywhere! It absolutely rocks, maaaan!!!!!



Last Orders is very, very cool too.



I could go on...and given half the chance, probably will.

[Richie Crouch]

Viking Invasion was class and I am also psyched (for a change ) to join Tom's Pill Box Wall cult!

[fatneck]

Photo's?

[sharkey]

Richie where is what is Viking Invasion, always on the look out for quality highballs.

[Richie Crouch]

Few pics of myself, Monolith and Ben "Showtime" F on Viking Invasion:


Looking up at the problem from downhill (just above the RAC boulders)



Tom Setting off from the bottom:


Ben getting around the arete


Quality arete moves


Tidy feet and nice crimps/sidepulls


Go do it asap!

[fatneck]

All good stuff, will deffo get on it next time we're up there!

[sharkey]

A little crass i know, to ask the grade, but i need to know whether i have some chance of doing it! a wild guess 7a+, it looks Stella.

[fatneck]

where is what is Viking Invasion

Go to the RAC boulders, stand at the start of The Pump Traverse I think and look directly up the hillside. You should not be able to miss the bold, high arete.

A little crass I know, to ask the grade...

Is V5 from the block and solid Font7a from low down to the left (according to Rich and Ben I think). Watch for the "amazing disappearing act" (performed by the delightfull Oya) that befalls those whose left foot skids off.
I was convinced we'd find her completely broken at the bottom of the boulderfield 

[BenF]

Is V5 from the block and solid Font7a from low down to the left (according to Rich and Ben I think).

I pretty much agree with the grade suggested on NWB.  Solid 6c+ from the ground (cheating starting off the block on the right probably knocked half a grade off and is still worth while if you can't do the first moves on the left or more to the point can't manage the hard move right off the arete).  Total classic problem though, one of the best of it's grade I've done in North Wales and very good for the soul.

[Monolith]

Viking Invasion is one of the most stunning lines around. Admittedly I can't see what those images look like on my work PC, but it has on be one of the best aretes in the UK.

[Pantontino]

I said I'd be back with more. Check this daddy out:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=282

[BenF]

I said I'd be back with more. Check this daddy out:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=282

Oh yeah, that looks wicked.  I think I noticed that a little while ago but didn't climb it, it certainly looks familiar and I have explored the area that you say it's in.  I shall climb it next time I'm in Ogwen.  Thanks for the link.

[Monolith]

That looks brilliant. Seemingly a human database of untouched boulders, the man sure has an acute eye for a line.

[jimbo]

That does indeed look quality. Photographs like that remind me why bouldering in north wales is the best. You cant beat heading out into the mountains on a sunny day. I havent climbed for a couple of years through injury but its cool problems in awesome locations like that which get me psyched to get through the injury and get involved again. cant fucking wait.

[mark]

Viking Invasion looks great.

What about Monkey See at Milestone Buttress? High enough to have scared me off the couple of times I've been to try.

[LL55]

Just to get people up there for a second ascent of  The Passage of Time - here's some more photos from the first ascent. Dead nice looking line, excellent looking moves, and the required Ogwen landing.... hop to it!

[Scouse D]

That looks awesome. Psyched to get to Wales again soon and check these newer areas out.
On the highball note Yeeha behind pen-y-pass youth hostel is high and very good with a great deal of commitment required for the last move. So close to the road yet so little attention...

[BenF]

What about Monkey See at Milestone Buttress?

Yeah, I guess any off that block are worth including.  Have tried Saturn and have done Monkey Do so far.

On the highball note Yeeha behind pen-y-pass youth hostel is high and very good with a great deal of commitment required for the last move.

Yup, that's on my list of things to do in the near future.

Just to get people up there for a second ascent of  The Passage of Time - here's some more photos from the first ascent.

Thanks for the cool photos.  I'm psyched for that problem and shall be hopefully heading up to try and climb it this weekend.

[Johnny Brown]

Shit, anymore of this and I might actually consider going bouldering when in Snowdonia!

[cofe]

That looks awesome. Psyched to get to Wales again soon and check these newer areas out.
On the highball note Yeeha behind pen-y-pass youth hostel is high and very good with a great deal of commitment required for the last move. So close to the road yet so little attention...

ha ha. are you the only person to have done the big three?
1. Yeeha
2. Elephantitus
3. LRP

[Paz]

I take it no amount of pads is going to make the landing underneath Beginner's Mind tolerable?

[Scouse D]

ha ha. are you the only person to have done the big three?
1. Yeeha
2. Elephantitus
3. LRP

4. Boysen's roof ss

....and yes, I believe I am.

[Doylo]

ha ha. are you the only person to have done the big three?
1. Yeeha
2. Elephantitus
3. LRP

4. Boysen's roof ss

....and yes, I believe I am.

Here you go Dave

[Pantontino]

And there's more, check the film link here:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=57

and this lot:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=174

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=193

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=210

[BenF]

Good stuff Simon, thanks for the links.  I shall be updating my guide later as I'd missed out those things up by Disobedience.  The thing in Bethesda is something that I've been meaning to seek out for a while because it does look really good, so thanks for pointing that one out again too.

I now have a growing list to work through over the next few weeks when not in situ on a bolt at Pen Trwyn or shuffling at Woodwell:

Including in no particular order:

Heinous Hone
Spikefull
Disobedience
Yeeha
The Passage of Time
Pesda Roc
Saturn
Solace Arete
Willy Two Goes
Ain't no Party

 

[cofe]

ha ha. are you the only person to have done the big three?
1. Yeeha
2. Elephantitus
3. LRP

4. Boysen's roof ss

the fourth in the trilogy. how could i forget.

[andy popp]

The Pebble (Utopia) looked pretty high (and good) to me. What's it like?

[Jim]

high and good suprisingly. get to it

[andy popp]

Walked right into that one. Will try and refrain from asking for beta, whether its soft/hard etc. etc.

[BenF]

The Pebble is great.  Watch the little rock beneath it if you decide to slip off a foothold and miss your mat.  I nearly bust my knee when I slipped, missed my badly placed pad and spotter and then slid on the grass.  Rarely have I experienced such pain as when my patella connected with the pointy rock.  I think I cried.

However, as I just said, the problem is great and worth checking out.  Nice technical moves and a finish that needs composure.

[Pantontino]

...and a note of caution. just spoke to Ding Dong; he went to the Cave on Friday night to try the Director's Cut - Upper Cut link. He slipped off the DC crux (going into the shothole) and hit the deck without a pad, landing on his hand. Turns out it's broken in a couple of places. 6 weeks in a caste apparently.

[BenF]

Bugger, that's a worthy note of caution.  At least he won't miss any dry weather though.  It'll take six weeks for the flooding to subside.

[Norton Sharley]

...and a note of caution. just spoke to Ding Dong; he went to the Cave on Friday night to try the Director's Cut - Upper Cut link. He slipped off the DC crux (going into the shothole) and hit the deck without a pad, landing on his hand. Turns out it's broken in a couple of places. 6 weeks in a caste apparently.

Which caste will he be in then?  Is he actually going to a Hindu country to practice or can he just stay here?  Hope he's not going into the 'untouchables' or his luck is really down.

[Doylo]

...and a note of caution. just spoke to Ding Dong; he went to the Cave on Friday night to try the Director's Cut - Upper Cut link. He slipped off the DC crux (going into the shothole) and hit the deck without a pad, landing on his hand. Turns out it's broken in a couple of places. 6 weeks in a caste apparently.

yes the great ding dong rang me up to inform me of his misfortune. Such a shame cos in his words "it was feeling alright" I'm sure he'll be back once its all healed up though to complete the deal.

[dave]

...and a note of caution. just spoke to Ding Dong; he went to the Cave on Friday night to try the Director's Cut - Upper Cut link. He slipped off the DC crux (going into the shothole) and hit the deck without a pad, landing on his hand. Turns out it's broken in a couple of places. 6 weeks in a caste apparently.

Which caste will he be in then?  Is he actually going to a Hindu country to practice or can he just stay here?  Hope he's not going into the 'untouchables' or his luck is really down.

if his hand is in one caste, and the rest of his body in another, then that could explain an detrimental impact on climbing ability, if they aren't allowed to talk to each other.

[SA Chris]

Does that make him half-caste?

[richieb]

Bad luck Neil...

I can hear it already......'I was at the cave the other day and there was this guy doing left wall traverse with a cast on one hand! In his trainers too!!'

[Pantontino]

He did turn up the other night, but didn't climb. Give it another week though and I'm sure he'll be swinging around with a weight belt on.

[Pantontino]

News of another classic highball in Cwm Silyn:



Takes the wall direct, just left of the climber. Full details:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=289