[BenF]

I've always got a lot of satisfaction from problems that think they're routes and after climbing some rather special highballs in North Wales yesterday, I got thinking about a ticklist of the best Welsh highball problems. 

Here's my starters for the list, feel free to add to them and I shall spend my summer scaring myself witless.

Idwal Cottage Arete.  Did this yesterday and it instantly became one of my favourite ever problems.  (unfortunately we didn't a have a car to spot from, nor did we have any kicking tunes blasting out.  Just tranquility I'm afraid).

Viking Invasion, RAC boulders.  Also did this yesterday and it's total class from start to finish.  Go do it if you haven't already, but take a pad or two.

Made in Heaven.  Obviously.

Throbbin's Arete.

Solace Arete. 

Got me over.  Not the best problem but a good highball nonetheless.

Now I'm figuring that something on the Mallory Boulder should be in there but I've never been up there.  And presumably that high thing up behind Sundowner.   Perhaps plus something easy from the Pont y Gromlech slabs.

[Fiend]

Willy Two Goes?

The Seam?

some of the far stuff at Ysgo?

[Johnny Brown]

How is Made in Heaven a highball?

[Adam Lincoln]

Solice arete isnt really highball.....?

[BenF]

How is Made in Heaven a highball?

Solice arete isnt really highball.....?

Yeah, I was expecting to be picked up on those two but felt I should add something from the Lleyn and included MIH because many people seem think it's highball rather than just higher than most things in Wales.  Then I included Solace because it's got a pretty awful landing (I know that alone doesn't make a highball, but it adds a "highball" feel) and I want to climb it... which is partially the purpose of this list (other than just being a discussion about ones we've done).

[BenF]

Willy Two Goes?

The Seam?

some of the far stuff at Ysgo?

Willy Two Goes is something I haven't done yet and when I did try it I chickened out because I thought I was in for a nasty fall, so maybe it should go in.

The Seam is about ten foot high above a perfect landing.  If it was roughly that height with a dodgy landing then I reckon it would have a highball feel.

I'm trying to think of Porth Ysgo stuff but have drawn a blank other than the ones I suggested.  Maybe the routes on the back of the MIH boulder?

[Teaboy]

Eggmeat in the Pass

[BenF]

Eggmeat in the Pass

Where is that? 

[Johnny Brown]

Johnny's seam left of The Ysgo crack is a good highball, bit escapable though.

[BenF]

Johnny's seam left of The Ysgo crack is a good highball, bit escapable though.

Strangely enough I don't know that one, despite knowing Porth Ysgo very well.  I shall seek it out.

[Pantontino]

It's called Johnny's Slab (p243 in the guide - I'm presuming you have a copy with you at all times )

Disobedience V7/7a+ is the highball arete close to Sundowner.

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=104

How about Uppercut V8/+/7b/+ in the cave? Flat landing, but horizontal body position a long way off the deck.

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=154

I'll be back later with some more...

[BenF]

It's called Johnny's Slab (p243 in the guide - I'm presuming you have a copy with you at all times )

Of course, if JB had only said!   

I don't need a copy of the guide with me at all times, I pretty much know it off by heart.

Disobedience I do want to do and will add to my list.  That's the one I was thinking of behind Sundowner, it looks great but I've never been up there with a spotter and more than one pad.  I also thought a Cave problem should be in there, but since I hate the place, I won't be doing it I'm afraid.

Thanks for the input so far guys. 

[cofe]

good problem that Johnny's wall.

mallory crack has a highball finish but not sure it's a highball per se.

[Doylo]

yeah mallory crack is high but not really a highball boulder problem as the top out is about v diff. Ain't No Party Like a Pil Box Party 7a+ is a bit highball and has some lush holds.

[BenF]

Thanks, I've not made it up to the Mallory Boulder yet (one of the last pages in the guide that I've yet to visit).
 

Ain't No Party Like a Pil Box Party 7a+ is a bit highball and has some lush holds.

Checked Pill Box Wall out again the other day whilst doing routes round the corner.  It's a strange piece of rock that seems to often be damp when everything else is bone dry and last week was no exception.  Yellow Wall and Black Wall were dry, but Pill Box felt greasy as hell.  In my many years of climbing at Pen Trwyn I've still yet to boulder on Pill Box Wall but I promise to actually try something there soon (even though the problems don't top out  ).


 

[Doylo]

Its also often dry when alll else is wet, i spent many days there last winter. Let me know if you want the guided tour.

[Monolith]

I'm intending to live to live at Pill Box in the coming winter months until I've done everything. Join me Ben.

[BenF]

Its also often dry when alll else is wet, i spent many days there last winter. Let me know if you want the guided tour.

I'd figured it would have regular dry days in the winter too, given the wind it receives.  Thanks for the offer, you may get taken up on it at some point I'm afraid!

Join me Ben.

What, are you starting a cult?

[Monolith]

Yes, a cult of Pill Box Heads

[Pantontino]

Count me in for the winter run. I've said it before, but I'll say it again: Ain't No Party direct (with the jumping start) is one of the best problems I have ever done, anywhere! It absolutely rocks, maaaan!!!!!



Last Orders is very, very cool too.



I could go on...and given half the chance, probably will.

[Richie Crouch]

Viking Invasion was class and I am also psyched (for a change ) to join Tom's Pill Box Wall cult!

[fatneck]

Photo's?

[sharkey]

Richie where is what is Viking Invasion, always on the look out for quality highballs.

[Richie Crouch]

Few pics of myself, Monolith and Ben "Showtime" F on Viking Invasion:


Looking up at the problem from downhill (just above the RAC boulders)



Tom Setting off from the bottom:


Ben getting around the arete


Quality arete moves


Tidy feet and nice crimps/sidepulls


Go do it asap!

[fatneck]

All good stuff, will deffo get on it next time we're up there!