[r-man]

Having explored various bits and bobs of esoteric limestone in recent months, I've come across a few loose holds that it would be a shame to pull off. So what's the deal with Sika? Is it the best thing to use, and are there any tips for using it well?

Have found this http://www.sika.co.uk/prod-list-rigbondstrength but not sure which is the best product, or where is the best place to get hold of it.

I know there are some sika experts out there...

[Ru]

You want a two part epoxy resin grout, suitable for industrial chemical anchor fixings. Some two part Polyester resin grouts are also suitable, but not as strong as epoxy - ok for holds though. Not sure what the original sika product was called but it's basically this stuff. Sika itself is hard to get hold of. Make sure both surfaces are very clean and dry before applying the adhesive.

[r-man]

Cheers Ru. Can I get this sort of thing at B&Q, or do I need to look for more specialist retailers?

[Greg C]

If you don't need a huge amount (repairs about 6 decent sized holds) then this stuff works really well...
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Unibond-Repair-Stone-Good-55ml/dp/B0001P14D6

I've glued a fair few holds - including the good hold on Nightrider (which takes full bodyweight swings) and the Power Pinch - with it and if used correctly it's as strong as anything else I've come across with the bonus that it's pretty cheap and easily obtainable from B&Q etc.

[Greg C]

Another major benefit of "Repairs Stone For Good" is the fact that (unlike some of the more liquid glues like standard epoxy resin) it is quite pliable and therefore good for rebuilding sections of holds which have completely deteriorated. It has a poor level of friction though!

[r-man]

Excellent! Sounds like just the job.

[Ru]

Not sure about the Repair Stone For Good stuff, which sounds like it may be a polyester resin from a quick google, but i can't be sure, but generally, no, you can't get it from B&Q. They generally only do araldite type epoxy resins which aren't very good and are orangey often when dried. I've used a Polyester Resin from an industrial fixings supplier place near the Foundry called Permafast. You can order on line from them too. I think this is the stuff: http://www.permafastsheffield.ltd.uk/product_info.php?cPath=137_159&products_id=2422. An epoxy is stronger though. It's much cheaper volume wise than buying consumer branded glues too. the only downside is that you need a special applicator to squeeze the stuff out, but you can also push it out with a screwdriver or other rod and then mix by hand, which is what I've done in the past. Just make sure that you push out each part to the same depth on the tube, as the tube is designed to dispense the correct mixture.

Generally the bolt glue type grouts are quite a thick texture, not runny like glue, more like a much stikier damp sand, so you can use it quite thickly, build up areas, use it as filler, etc. And it's grey.

[Doylo]

Whats the best thing to do when you've got a loose hold that threatens to break into many pieces if it comes off. Is it best to reinforce it before it comes off, is there a resin injection that can be used with a thin enough applicator (like a needle)?

[Johnny Brown]

Leave it Chris, Roadrunner will never be rebuilt.

[Ru]

Pull/lever it off gently, glue it back together on the floor, let it harden, then stick the whole thing back on.  If you try and glue it in situ, it may still be weak as you might not be able to get glue behind it, and you certainly won't be able to clean behind it so the glue won't stick - then someone will pull it off and loose the bits or something. Better to do it yourself in a controlled way. You need to be careful to align the bits correctly though, otherwise when you come to stick it back on the crag it won't fit properly and you will have potentially changed the hold a lot. You also need to be careful not to get glue on the face that you will stick back onto the crag, as this will also create a lump that will mean you don't get a proper fit back onto the original place.

[Doylo]

Leave it Chris, Roadrunner will never be rebuilt.

Ha ha, yes JB i have said my goodbyes. It was hard letting go but it just wasn't fair on my other favourites such as Pil Box who i neglected whilst in mourning.

Ta for advice Ru, i am a bit scared about pulling this hold off cos its quite intricate and to be honest i'll probably make a right fuckin mess of it. Maybe i need to employ someone like your good self to come and do a proper job for me. 5 pound an hour do you? 

[Monolith]

It's depressing heading along the A55 only to get a miserable peek at the now defunct Roadrunner. Keep pursuing the resin injections Doylo - count me in for the cause.

[dave]

getting back to the sika thing, lovejoy told he uses something called "Epoxy Acrylate" in one of them big decorators gun things.

how about someone naming a problem "asylum sika"? Good clean pun.

[GCW]

how about someone naming a problem "asylum sika"? Good clean pun.

Better not, you'll start all sorts off.
Sika's a parrot?
Sika this life etc 

[cofe]

sika and ye shall find?
jobsika's allowance?

[r-man]

Next thing you know, we'll have font circuits clearly marked with swasikas. Stick to the trodden path, I say. I'm on a glueten free diet, innit.

Cross red meat and sika, what do you get?
You get ill. And Sika rhymes than any yet.

[Monolith]

I suppose anything pertaining to masssika would be a bit Manning. Now slowly rotting thankfully.

Incidentally did anyone hear Trevor Macdonald speaking in a similar vein last night on some ITV spin off of have i got news for you?

[cofe]

Incidentally did anyone hear Trevor Macdonald speaking in a similar vein last night on some ITV spin off of have i got news for you?

that guy. he's such an attention sika.

[Mark Lloyd]

Just thought I'd better own up to glueing the flake on Wright's rock traverse with Plastic Padding.
It seems to be holding up, but I'm still not sure whether I should have glued it or not especially as that rock is quite friable.
I always meant to tidy it up a bit but never got round to it.
I wasn't the lard arse that pulled it off though.