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2007 North Wales Bouldering Meet report (Read 15386 times)

Monolith

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Indeed, cheers guys. You gave a warm reception to all those who cared to turn up. Look forward to the next slightly cooler potential Autumn (?) one.

BenF

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So you went to woodwell, and then to tom's roof? or was the tom's roof rules discussion another day?

As in Tom's Roof at Woodwell.  I feel that I have been out-pedanted.

Monolith

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So you went to woodwell, and then to tom's roof? or was the tom's roof rules discussion another day?

I feel that I have been out-pedanted.

...which is rare ;) No to be fair Ben, you are a man of little pedant. More a man of ponder.

BenF

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No to be fair Ben, you are a man of little pedant.

I take issue with that, I'm a more than a little pedantic.


webbo

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R-Man - My beta for Arachnaphobia is matching the undercling, right foot on the only decent looking thing and pulling really hard. Totally solid start for a V7 tick  though the moves after that aren't too bad.

Cheers. Sounds hard - have looked at this with various people, and no-one I was with managed to pull on, though we may have spent too much time faffing on different handholds. Gets V8 in the guide I believe, but that should still have been doable. Will look at it again next time.
my mate started with l/h undercut r/h sharp crimp l/h to pinch then a high rockover on r/f and up to good finger hold with r/h but he wasn't sure wether this was the correct start.however there is clearly a scar where something has come off.

c.j.d.

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Hi guys and gals - just got of a three day shift (went in at 23.00 on Sunday evening after the meet - feeling terrible!).  Cheers to all who came down, it seemed to go down well, even though it was about a billion degrees!  I guess the beer cooled us all down anyhow.  Hey, Greg, maybe next time The Sting and Harvey Oswald ss will go down (oh, and Bus Stop) - just need that extra 10% eh?  ha ha, only joking - good effort to all, well enjoyed!  See you all agains soon... :wave:

Greg C

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Thanks for the tour Chris.


Pantontino

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Hey CJD, didn't your mother teach you any manners? It's rude to goad a guest, especially one as well behaved and gracious as young master Gregory. You deserved that smite.

I won't smite you, but I will point out how pathetic your mantel technique is - topping out on Einstein you looked like an oil covered seal trying to mount an iceberg! ;)

Greg C

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Notice how I had the good grace not to point out some of the questionable techniques I noticed last week, not to mention "the close but no cigar" efforts on a few south lakes classics (Beauty of Being Numb anyone)... ooops!  ;)

Return the smite if you like, I probably deserve it.

PS: Were's my cheque for the double page spread of my Gaskins image that appeared in your Gravity magazine article?  ;)

Pantontino

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I meant CJD looked like an oiled seal etc on Einstein - just thought I'd clarify.

(Don't want anybody to mention that dab of mine on Closer)
« Last Edit: June 13, 2007, 03:56:59 pm by Pantontino »

webbo

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finally got read the report.i notice that the sting gets bigged up due to sats conditions.on the unofficial yorkshire off shoot swanny did this 2nd go,retro party 2nd go,the v8 right of bog side traverse 2nd attempt plus about another 18 easier problems.he was getting so excited i thought we might have to mug him and tie him up to get him back in the car as i had to be back home for 7.30pm[20 miles to the east of york]

Pantontino

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I would expect nothing less from Master Swann. Shame we missed you, it's always good to see somebody tearing the crag down.

I'm a little confused by this: "the v8 right of bog side traverse"

Do you mean Sleep Deprivation?

Jim

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maybe the v8 at the left of the bogside traverse on the bogside boulder perhaps?

webbo

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i'm suprised how little you know your own masterpiece ;).theres a v6 and a v8 mentioned starting from the rail of the bogside traverse which are mentioned as having no particular merit.however we all thought the v6 was very good and andy and dave enjoyed the v8.i guess a lot of the time these might be described as shallow water solos given the landing.

Nigel

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Hey you Welshy mofo's, cheers for a weekend full of good scenes. These things are always a laugh, they should happen more often - I approve.  :great:

Are people talking about James Pond as V8 here? Is that what it gets in the guide as I've heard a few people say it? There's no way. It'd be V5 in Font (par don, seees see ploo)!

Pantontino

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Oh, that 'V8' - now I get it. That would be James Pond then. The one that I unfairly dismissed in the NWB guide, because I thought it was not independent enough. I've since changed my mind, and now consider it to be a superb V6/7a. The right hand exit from the ramp, is also good, if a little close to the adjacent block. I thought this was harder - at least V7/7a+.

Nige, you're climbing about 6 or 7 grades below your limit, how could you possibly tell the difference between a 6c+ and a 7a? ::)

Andy should have tried the sitter to JP - that's a Ding Dong V8 (i.e. 7b+).

(Ding Dong being Neil Dyer's nickname)

Here's some pics for those of you not versed in Cromlech minutiae:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=192

webbo

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now i'm confused.we started both these problems from a crouching start i.e hands on ramp then feet on holds at the back/underneath.
andy and dave both flashed the right hand line,i took a while longer :-[.then as said earlier andy did t'other 2nd go then it was a case dave would try the left the i would try the right.did they do james pond sit start.we thought they were worth a couple of stars

Pantontino

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Both problems start hanging the, hands matched on the ramp, as you did. The sitting start to JP starts right underneath on a low edge (left) and a small sidepull (right). Confusingly there is a an easier version that uses a bigger side pull further right.

Richie Crouch

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And the far right toe-heel lock for lanky people seems a wee bit stretched out when trying to hit that lip from the sitter! One for Lion-O!

webbo

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now having viewed the pictures at home i'm enlightened.i also appear to be the proud owner of my first welsh v7/7a+ on my birthday as well.

Pantontino

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Still plenty of life left in the old dog, eh Webbo! I'd say a celebratory beer is in order. :beer2:

webbo

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the reason for the flying visit was i had to be back to go round to the neighbours for drinks.my recollection is of drinking rather large glasses of red wine.
sunday was somewhat painful.

 

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