[reeve]

In a similar spirit to Fiend's 'Thoughts on Font' thread, I've just returned from 10 days on Kalymnos and enjoyed it so much I just want to talk about it.

1. The atmosphere of the place. After only a couple of days we were bumping into people we'd befriended in the street in Masouri where we were staying, natives and other climbers. Also the restaurant and bar owners would recognise us for a week after we'd actually given them any custom and appeared genuinely friendly, not just fishing for more custom.

2. Which rather conveniently brings us to my next point, the food. We ate out every night (and I'm far from loaded), only one bad meal between the four of us throughout the ten days. And many more very good meals. Got well into Greek cuisine.

3. Mopeds, brilliant! Had never been on motorised transport with less than four wheels before (well, except for a boat) but they are far cheaper to hire than a car and the norm for getting around the island. Loads of fun to drive, especially on the big switch backs round the other side of the island.

4. Despite having said that, number four is that so much of the climbing lies within walking distance of Masouri. Alright so it is a bit of a slog up that hill (comparable to walking up to the Cromlech, but without the scree), but hey it's a good thing, we won't get cold.

5. The quality of the rock. Superb! So admittedly, I've not done any other sport climbing abroad to draw a comparison, but hey, it's no Horseshoe.

6. Decided to add Stalactites as a separate point, as the rock quality in some areas is fantastic, but with virtually no stalactites, so where it does exist its obviously a distinct issue. Brilliant juggy holds, jams, technical 3 dimensional climbing and weird and innovative rests. Climbing around all these volumes at the works for the winter has certainly paid off.

7. There are some bloody long routes! Bought a 70m rope especially for the trip which whilst not essential, certainly opened up a lot more possibilities without any uncertainty about getting back down. Obviously I love one move problems as much as the next man, but if I'm taking a rope, I don't see any point in doing so unless I get pumped. Otherwise I'll go highballing. Man did I get pumped. Didn't do a route less than 20m, but most were 30-40.

8. The island is nowhere near maturity, still plenty of crags to be developed. We were told by one of the restauranteurs that Francois LeGrand is being employed to bolt up the neighbouring island of Telendos (only a E1.50 ferry ride away).

I'm sure there were other ideas I had in mind to write about but it's the middle of a night shift so my mind is grinding to a halt. As Fiend said about Font, it really is bloody good.

[climbalive]

I agre with everything you say, was there for 7 days just ov er 2 year ago an loved every minute of it an didnt want to come home. Everything you said is true and one other point, the kebabs are amazimng. glad you enjoyed youre trip.

[whispering nic]

Went there for our honeymoon, and it was an awesome mix of cragging, eating, snorkelling and other stuff... don't tell everyone though.

[reeve]

Good to hear you both had such a good time there too on your respective trips. How well developed were the crags two years ago climbalive? I got the impression from a couple of people out there that there had been a lot of development recently.

[climbalive]

to start with i will say sorry for such a late reply, the crags offered a massive range of routes but still left an amazig amount of potential for new routes in some areas, i spent most of my time in the grande grotto wich seemed pretty full if i can remember correctly, verey route i done was amazing, just like the cake that the owner of our apartments left us 2 or 3 times over the week.

[nash1]

Where did you stay? Any contact details. How did you get there? Fly + boat? Easy to work out when you are there or did you do a package deal?

[reeve]

Free cake?! Excellent, where was that you were staing climbalive?

nash1: We flew to Athens where we stayed the night and got a connection direct to Kalymnos the following day. Worked quite nice for us as we touristed around Athens (as I think I mentioned above, we were on a mixed holiday - climbing trip) but was definitely not the cheapest way to do it.
The way I will travel in future would be a package deal to Kos, then get the ferry over (takes about an hour). If you are flexible with your travel dates this can get very cheap deals.
We stayed in Irini studios, I can get the email address if you're interested. The apartments are all very similar in price, and quality appears to vary indepent of this. Ours were fine, neat and clean but nothing special. Apparently the only apartments in Masouri which have double beds (instead of two twins pushed together) are the ones above the italian restaurant. Tell me if this is a consideration as I'll try harder to remember the name of these apartments!
Just post any more questions man.

[climbalive]

I stayed at Massouri at melina's apartments http://www.melinas-apartments.com/ to get there we flew to Kos and then a short ferry ride over to pothia where George (the owner of the apartments) met us and took us to Massouri, he also helped with the scooter hire, giving the old lad a lift to the rental spot.

[jfw]

Is September a good time to go? Or would it be better in October.

It looks great!

[ksjs]

i havent been there but am heading in september. i think october may be better than september as slighty cooler but from what ive read september is still fine and considered part of the climbing 'season'. the island starts to close down at some point in november so maybe best not to leave it too late. i would see what the guide says but my woman has hidden it from me  in case i obsess too much before going.

these may be worth a look:
http://www.planetfear.com/travel_detail.asp?t_id=29
http://www.rockfax.com/areas/kalymnos/area-info.html

theres also loads of posts about Kalymnos if you do a search of the forums on www.ukclimbing.com

[jfw]

dead excited!

going last 2 weeks of september! booked in melinas appartment! (cake!)

[ksjs]

may see you around, am there 12th-26th, also in Melinas. cant wait...

[ksjs]

just back and it was fantastic: the hype is true but there isnt much by way of vertical / technical stuff, its mainly tufas, stalactites and pockets but they are incredible and provide some very inspiring and intimidating lines. hot in the sun right now but get up early or pick your shady crags and you can still have a full days climbing in perfect conditions.

it is a great place to onsight (the local guide even urges you 'to go for the onsight' on certain routes) as the routes generally feature obvious, positive holds. you will though need decent stamina / power reserves for success. where the routes are harder to onsight, the guide often points this out so youre forewarned. the bolting also helps as generally its very well-bolted and you rarely feel run out.

the grading (in the local guide) does though tend to be on the soft side, usually by about a grade ie 7b is often more like 7a+. in terms of grades its worth mentioning that its perfect for teams operating at varying grades as theres plenty of harder stuff right beside easier stuff so no major treks between routes.

its very difficult to pick a best route as the routes are generally of a high quality but for me stand out routes were: Mythologie, Lucky Strike, Gladiator, Beta, Kaly-Pige, Carpe Diem and Rastapopoulos.

off the beaten track its worth going to Sicati - went there on a day off and it looks amazing and theres been lots of development since the local guide (which only details a few routes) was last printed (mainly as a result of the Petzl Roc Trip i think: http://en.petzl.com/petzl/frontoffice/Sport/static/Video/escalade/video/roctrip_kalymnos__movie.htm)

wherever you climb, especially if theres tufa / stalactites around, beware of bits breaking: this happened twice when i was there (both times in Panorama). its also worth climbing with this in mind ie dont pull too hard on anything that looks delicate or is slighty off-route.

aside from magnificent crags and stunning routes, theres the refreshing sea for swimming, gorgeous evening skies, lots of places to eat at reasonable prices and a very relaxed atmosphere.

all in all a brilliant place to climb but maybe not if youre looking for loads of really hard stuff (there are though a few 8s dotted around the place, often extensions if i remember correctly which must give some awesome pitches).

[i.munro]

2. Which rather conveniently brings us to my next point, the food. We ate out every night (and I'm far from loaded), only one bad meal between the four of us throughout the ten days. And many more very good meals. Got well into Greek cuisine.

Just curious if others agree about this? The food was the one of the only two bad points about the place for me. Compared to other places I've been in Greece it was terrible, at least in the holiday places, captive audience I guess. I had a couple of really good meals in the main town though.

The other was the lack of bouldering. Has anyone tried the stuff on Kos?

[reeve]

Sounds like you had a good trip ksjs, good to hear that man.

i.munro: Surprised you didn't like the food so much, where about's were you eating? I've not spent much time elsewhere in Greece so can't compare, other than a night in Athens which was comparable quality wise but far more expensive.

[i.munro]

Sounds like you had a good trip ksjs, good to hear that man.

i.munro: Surprised you didn't like the food so much, where about's were you eating? I've not spent much time elsewhere in Greece so can't compare, other than a night in Athens which was comparable quality wise but far more expensive.

Think we tried most of the places in Massouri that were open in October.
Missed the one a bit out of town towards the climbing that's sort of on it's own although I later herad it was good. Had dinner in an Ouzeria in the main town full of bearded old sailors.
Scary as f&^& but less than 1/2 the price of the tourist stuff & several times the quality.
Also found the bar on the beach on the way back from Monastery (can't remember the name of the town) to be ok.

Where's good for next time?

[jfw]

Where's good for next time?

the aegean tavern

the restaurant with the fountain


I had an ace time too - flashed 6b+ and nearly flashed 6c!! (fell off les amazones just before it got easy) - i know it sounds weird to be excited about NEARLY flashing something, but i would never have expected to be getting on anything that hard without working it!

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Where's good for next time?

the aegean tavern

the restaurant with the fountain


I had an ace time too - flashed 6b+ and nearly flashed 6c!! (fell off les amazones just before it got easy) - i know it sounds weird to be excited about NEARLY flashing something, but i would never have expected to be getting on anything that hard without working it!

Aye the Aeqean tavern is a good restaurant( guy with really bad mullet) although always seem to get bitten at that restaurant more than any others. Restaurant above Mr Suvlaki is good also. Best one by far however is the french one next to glaros (if looking at glaros its on the left)



Cheers
tim

[shark]

Thought I'd resurrect this thread. I am going to be in Greece and/or Turkey for three weeks in late October/ early November. I am definitely going to Kalymnos at the start of that period and have a partner (Shark!) for about a week.

Just in case I got the wrong idea Toby has made it very clear what sort of 'partner' he considers me to be by insisting on separate rooms

[TobyD]

Bump. Especially looking for response to:

if I stayed on in Kalymnos, would it be easy to find climbing partners

I went on my tod a few years ago (April 2008) , and never had a problem finding partners; i was there about five weeks or so .... so that's yes, pretty easy!

[tomtom]

Bump. Especially looking for response to:

if I stayed on in Kalymnos, would it be easy to find climbing partners

We'll be needing space for the chicks once they hear we are major social media entrepreneurs ...

Tried giving these a mail??

[SteG]

- is Kalymnos so awesomely good that I'll hate leaving after a short period? Comparisons from people who have been there and Antalya would be especially useful. I have never been to Kalymnos before, but have spent a cumulative week before in Antalya, and like it there.

not been to Antalya myself but friends who have say Kaly is more varied and much better climbing

- if I stayed on in Kalymnos, would it be easy to find climbing partners, factoring in that I am pasty middle-aged englishman with no charisma or foreign language skills? It is very easy to find people to climb with in Antalya as most people are at the JoSiTo campsite.

really easy, a lot of people post on the board at the Climbers Nest shop (below Panorama crag), or drop into Glaros bar and speak to Steve or Sue to see if anyone is also looking.

[Henners]

Alright folks,

Me and the Mrs are heading to Kalymnos soon, ended up booking to Athens as it seemed cheapest and wouldn't mind checking the city out.
Only recently started looking at ferry prices... 
Has anybody else got to the island this way, and did you get a cabin? Did you book in advance?
The web site for booking is worst than navigating 8a.nu, I'm wondering if it might be worth rocking up and getting economy there and then or swimming. Any experiences or recommendations welcome.

Cheers

   

[DDDD]

I was out there for the period before during and after the 'festival'. If I didn't know it was happening then I wouldn't have known it was there and I climbed at all the popular areas.

The climbing itself is fantastic - if you haven't been then you might not believe the quality of the rock and the routes. There did seem to be a lot of people in Massouri but that only added to the feel of the place. There was a lot of people at the cliffs at times but everyone I met was pretty chilled and getting on a route that you wanted was always OK. It was great to meet people from all over the world.

BTW I'm not known as a party animal and do prefer more quiet venues.

[abarro81]

Whilst this thread is at the top of the pile, anyone been in April/May? Any idea how much of a risk of wet tufas there is then (bearing in mind that my interest would be in the most tufa/stalactite orientated things I could find)?

[Jerry Morefat]

Whilst this thread is at the top of the pile, anyone been in April/May? Any idea how much of a risk of wet tufas there is then?

I went in May a couple of years ago. Seepage wasn't a problem at any of the crags I went to (Grande Grotta, Odyssey, Arhi). However we didn't go to Sicati Cave which is apparently the new black. Friends climbed there this April though, so I assume seepage isn't an issue.

[mrjonathanr]

These climbing festival things really annoy me. ... Then you're supposed to think "I'd like to go on holiday too", I know, I'll go and buy another North Face jacket.

Why? Do they come with Air Miles? 

FWIW I totally agree with you, and this commercial and intrusive approach puts me off the brand. But I'm from a different era and I bet there's a market for this approach. Just walk down Deansgate.

[Fiend]

Good cynicism, I approve.

How is Kaylmnos in December?? Dryness rather than temperature-wise??

[Charlton Chestwig]

Hi there,

Just wondering how busy (from a climbing point of view) Kalymnos gets over a typical easter. Hoping not to have to queue for 3star routes.

Also are there direct flights these days?

Cheers

Rich

[Baron]

Planning a week in Kalymnos at Whitsun.

Place to stay sorted, but wondering about best/cheapest travel options?

From Manchester ideally.

[groovedog]

we got flights from Glasgow to Kos for £150 with Easyjet for Easter, also I think Ryanair out of Stansted. I guess there are a lot more flight options in May as the season gets in full swing.

[Muenchener]

I'm heading out in the Autumn with some mates. The guy who is organising the trip is a teacher and so can only go for one week for school half term. I potentially could go a bit earlier: what are my chances of being able to pick up climbing partners over there? I'm pretty quiet and introverted and have, so far, exactly zero experience of picking up random strangers at the crag. (Perhaps I should organise a coaching session with Kelvin over the summer)

Also, I'm something of a specialist at short, vertical bouldery routes & have a profound fear of getting pumped. I assume there will be a lot of ARCing on jugs in my immediate future?

[James Malloch]

When are you out there? My friend and I will be there from 2nd to 16th October and you'd be welcome to grab belays.

I've not been myself and no idea of our plans other than we have booked some flights but we will be likely be staying in the town near the climbers bar.

[Muenchener]

Thanks, but I'll be a bit later. My mates are going 28th October - 4th November; the earliest I could go would be the 21st.

[James Malloch]

No worries - hope that you find a partner!