[Paul B]

I went on this last year (bad choice for a first route back on the lime) and struggled a lot especially on the move your on about, I cant remember quite what its like but I seem to remember a small sidepull that most people use as a shit intermediate, I think I was trying to roll over with my right hand using that for my left... however my memory is a bit hazy so I could be completely wrong! Keenus then promptly ignored the intermediate reaching straight through... before someone says he's not much taller than me check his wingspan.

[dpb]

Cheers

Shall try the roll over option.

If not, bring on Pistol Fingers.

[Paul B]

James and I mucked around a bit on pistol fingers while Jon was projecting it, I must say the climbing is fantastic and very sustained, I seem to remember using a crozzly crystal like sloper near the top which was a hard move...Great route.

[reeve]

Just a word of warning for anyone who goes to the crag, the bolt which has the rope handrail attached is pretty loose, that's the actual bolt not just the hanger. I've tied the rope off at the bolt but ideally it needs replacing by some kind hearted soul.

[Bonjoy]

 Yes sorry about that. It was a certain local youth's first attempt at placng a bolt. Nut was not on enough thread and so seized when hammered in, hence it wont come out or tighten up any further. Although it wobbles about it is not likely to fall out. I expended a lot of energy with a large crowbar and decided it was going nowhere and would have to stay put until I got a chance to bring some bolt croppers to the crag. In the meantime I was happy to use it as an anchor for a hanging access rope. Perhaps some via-ferrata style glued in rungs would be a safer less unsightly answer to the problem of gaining the RH ledge system (which can be too wet to climb up even when the routes above are bone dry).

[r-man]

Any chance LTQ will be dry, or will it be as damp as most places? What are conditions like in general?