[Ru]

I've done a nice little new route in Water Cum Jolly, left of the Inch Test on the Upper Circle. This was an old abandoned project that Andy Harris pointed me at, so it was ready bolted (although a little work was necessary to reinforce a couple of holds that would have soon snapped). It's proper Peak style, only two bolts long, about 6 moves that matter, 13 in total. I tried it last weekend and thought it was going to be tricky - like a font 7c+/8a crux, 8b+ route - and I didn't do two of the moves on it, which was quite exciting, but it was hot and in the sun. I was a bit disappointed therefore to piss up the route first redpoint on Saturday when conditions were better and as such I have absolutely no idea how hard it is. If forced I'd say 8a/+/b. It's called Three Spheres after the round nodules of limestone embedded in the rock in the crux section and has some cool moves.

Meanwhile, my wife found out that I called the new route at Raven Tor "Full Bleed" which she disapproves of as it "sounds like a menstrual problem". So on her request, and because I don't want a route naming reputation like John Redhead's, I'm renaming it. Continuing the religious theme of the crag. and tieing in with Three Spheres, it's now called Seraphim, which is officially approved of chez Davies. And if anyone says I can't rename it, yes I can, I'm writing the guidebook.

[dave]

nice one, that line was crying out to be done.

[Ru]

It was one of the last forgotton problems of Peak lime.

[dave]

word, anyone looked seriously at that bolt project in blackwell dale? thats another one that needs putting to bed. tuck it in, read it a story.

[a dense loner]

And if anyone says I can't rename it, yes I can, I'm writing the guidebook.

liking that pre-emptive answer ru.
on first reading i thought you'd called it three spheres cos of the three different grade options. limestone works on so many levels

[Ru]

Meanings within meanings, thats the way we roll down Millers Dale.

[SA Chris]

and I didn't do two of the moves on it, which was quite exciting

Is there any intended irony in this statement?

[Bonjoy]

 Good work Ru!
 I prefer Seraphim. Full Bleed makes it sound like all the holds will be nasty little razors

[cofe]

makes it sound like all the holds will be nasty little razors

pulling your hair and stealing your lunch money? nasty little razors.

[Ru]

Steve Mac repeated this today and didn't flash it. He also thought that it was almost ungradable, but said it was harder than 8a+ and probably 8b or 8b+.

[Johnny Brown]

What exactly is it about this route that makes it so unmeasurable, even on the Davies scale?

[Stu Littlefair]

You could try it an find out Johnny. No?

[Johnny Brown]

I can't climb that hard on limestone. Best redpoint is 7b, so I think it'd be a waste of time. Yes?

[Stu Littlefair]

Was more getting at the point that it's not your cup of tea. Short, bolted and tiny crimps. No idea why it's so hard to grade. It's probably quite easy to grade but ruperts sandbag-o-meter keeps dropping it back down again every time he gives it 8b.

[Ru]

Basically because it's hard giving a route grade to a bouldery sequence.

[Bonjoy]

Andy Harris said defo 8b when he was trying it

[Andy Harris]

Aye, I'd plump for hard 8b but the more i think about it maybe it is harder. Think it would shut down your average 8c climber? Quite a unique route really, a few easy moves into 1 hard move and 3 tricky ones then a couple of big pulls to the belay. The route is incredibly specific in terms of srengths (old school crimping) and will suit the short no end. Ru did however clip the 2nd bolt from below which was quit the most horrendos clip I've ever come across. I was planning on clipping it from a  few moves later but strained my knee in the process. Looking forward to doing this at some point in the future.