[r-man]

Shawn Diamond has done the FA of Le Dernier Fléau which he suggest 8C for after a break. "I have been living in Paris for the last month and a half - working in a sculpture studio after graduating from UCLA and taking a short vacation before starting medical school at Cornell."

http://bleau.info/rempart/12212.html

Old interview - http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/otw2/volume3/10withshawndiamond/

[unclesomebody]

Technically, this isn't a new 8C. It was climbed by Sebastien Frigault and graded 8B+/C but now something has broken apparently and so it's being upgraded slightly. More of a reascended 8B+/C now confirmed to be more like 8C.    It's a cool problem. I wish there were some pics. I think that pic above is from Gourmandise but I could be wrong since they both do very very similar things.

[Johnny Brown]

What do you think he's listening to? Deepak Chopra?

[r-man]

On the Internet I like KCRWs Morning Becomes Eclectic, and Air is on right now to get me into the French mood. Ask Peter Mortimer though — the maker of Return2Sender and First Ascent — what’s bumpin’ on my iPod during a redpoint. He will say without hesitation Christina Aguilera, and she was beltin out "Ain’t No Other Man" during Blacksheep.

[unclesomebody]

Turns out this is just a second ascent of Le Dernier Fleau. The broken hold(s) mentioned are the ones that got smashed years ago. Shawn has decided to plump for the grade of 8C instead of 8B+/C.

[Somebody's Fool]

Well, if nothing else, at least it's resulted in getting his life story out to a wider audience.

[dave]

I don't get it, if you're moving up to the crux of your redpoint project whilst listening to your ipod how are you going to hear your belayer quip "do you always climb with your harness undone", or "if i said you had a nice arse would you take it the wrong way"? madness.

[Paul B]

What do you think he's listening to? Deepak Chopra?

its obviously got to be eye of the tiger.

[Doylo]

Shawn has decided to plump for the grade of 8C instead of 8B+/C.

well he is american!

[Syked Tyler]

i believe i can fly i reckon
just thought i might add i checked temps for when he did it: 75degrees 40%humidity!!
ponder.....

[unclesomebody]

i believe i can fly i reckon
just thought i might add i checked temps for when he did it: 75degrees 40%humidity!!
ponder.....

Which kind of makes it more impressive. Danny and I tried Gourmandise (same moves as in the pic) and neither of us managed 1 of the moves at 11pm by lantern. It was pretty greasy even then (and that was back in March/April). This ascent really is amazing in my opinion. Nobody is climbing hard things in font cause of temps and this dude is crushing. It's not a massively conditions dependant problem but it will definitely make a difference.