[Nibile]

ok, so its nice to go for max distance, i know, like the mighty 159 that only power monsters manage to do.
but, even if useful to measure progress its just a max effort (for most people at least).
ive thought that i most fall on problems from pumpy arms or for not being able to stick a move after other moves, move that i can do after a little rest. given that im NOT going to try the ace, there are not many many problems, in general, that are just a couple of moves, and this pushed me to start training high intensity/power moves over a bigger number of moves. same, in the gym im working more on short circuits of 6-12 moves.

this led to discovering new campus routines like:
a) 1-2-1-3-1-4 (with same arm) -7 (with other arm)
b) 15" 90° lockoff-----> 1-4-7
c) 5" 90° one arm lockoff---------> 1-4-7
d) mixing fingerboard exercises with campus exercises with no rest between.

its nice, it gets you psiched and not bores, and wears you out in brief.

and thats all.
anyone has any ideas on this matter?

[GCW]

a) 1-2-1-3-1-4 (with same arm) -7 (with other arm)

This used to be called touches, didn't it?

[Nibile]

yes sir, but you do a few touches with the same hand, than you hold the last one touched and go with the other hand as high as you can.
its brutal.

[GCW]

Ah, got you.  Me being dumb as usual.

It's always good to do something different!!!

[Vitamin K]

Check out www.jollypower.com for all sorts of campus like routines - it's a site from Nibile's homeland.

Be warned the site is a bit clunky to use (best in IE I think) but if you persevere there is plenty of stuff to bring some variety into your campussing life.

[Nibile]

ahhh, the new bible.
you cant imagine how many damages its doing right now down here. and i dont mean phisical damages. every man and his dog (AT LAST I CAN USE THIS) now owns a copy, and spend counless hours on the campusboard, regardless of his climbing ability or possibilities. a guy brought his little brother at the gym to climb for the first time a few weeks ago, and last week i already saw him under the campusboard, stop-watch in hand, with a sad look in his face.

most people seem to forget that "jolly" lamberti has been training for the last 15 years, before writing that book. its a very good tool for very experienced trainers.

[Vitamin K]

ahhh, the new bible.
you cant imagine how many damages its doing right now down here. and i dont mean phisical damages.

I can well believe it Nibs - it did for me when I first came across the site. I thought, hey that looks like a good way to get strong, let's try all these new campus routines. I think I had a repeat prescription for anti-inflammatory medication for a long time afterwards.

I can't see that young man giving up climbing very, very quickly - either that, or he'll develop into some kind of mutant.