[r-man]

This evening I watched Dawid Skoczylas (aka Polish Dave) complete his roof project. It was truly awesome. Wild and crazy moves - slapping, guppying, crimping, underclinging, twisting, torquing... You have to see it to believe it. I've got the ascent on film, will post up in a bit.

In the meantime, here are some photos of Andronicus, which Dave says is at least 8a+, maybe more like 8b - needs some repeats as he's really not sure. Whatever the grade, it looks like a fantastic piece of climbing. He first tried the problem in 2000, when he did Hannibal, also in the cave. This year he's been working it a lot, and only recently found a very bizarre sequence that made it possible. The problem is named after the play Titus Andronicus.

Worth noting that we were climbing here today whilst the rain was absolutely pissing down. I don't think this cave actually gets wet, though the big undercuts at the back of Andronicus can get a little damp when the air is moist (Dave recommends liquid chalk!). If you want to try Andronicus, a stool might be useful to work the moves, as the roof is quite high. The right to left lip traverse, Hannibal, is also excellent, and probably 7c ish from the obvious sitstart.

For those who don't know where this is, it's the roadside cave a couple of minutes drive up the road from Stoney. It should probably be called Dave's Cave. Go climb there, you'll make Dave happy!

Getting established on the prow, and working feet outwards...


Swapping hands - left back to undercut, right slapping to prow...


Spinning backwards. Bouncing left hand off prow, about to throw into crack...


Heel up, slap right hand to crimp. Next move is crossthrough for slot, then easy move to jug out right...


Couple of photos for scale -

[reeve]

That looks absolutely mega! Good work to Dave. Coincidently I went for a look at the cave less than a week ago, having noticed it when driving. Exactly what line does it take? Nothing there looked particularly easy so imagine it must be a wild sequence to link a load of non-positive holds. Impressed.

[SA Chris]

Am I the only one who can't see the pics?

[GCW]

Probably.
Well done Dave!!!

[Bonjoy]

  Nice one Dave. Looks wild! Will definately go for a closer look and at least have a go at Hannibal

[Ru]

Brilliant. I'm really pleased for Dave. It looks like a really good addition to Peak climbing.

[(woz)]

wow! can't wait for the vid

[Scouse D]

I checked this cave out two weeks ago and saw this line. I promply raved about it to a few people saying how 'some beast has been working an awesome line there' and now it all comes clear. Imthink one of the first people I told was Johnny Brown in the pub, his enthusiasm for limestone roofs was so infectious that I never went back.

[r-man]

Exactly what line does it take? Nothing there looked particularly easy so imagine it must be a wild sequence to link a load of non-positive holds. Impressed.

It follows a crack straight out from the back to the appealing mini-prow, and up. It's the easiest (possibly the only) line that crosses the entire roof. To get to the prow, it's all big holds, but big moves. It's not particularly difficult to pull on at this point and move feet around, but getting two hands on the prow is where the real difficulties begin.

As for other possibilites, there may be another line that links into this from the left sidewall, and also a harder extension to Andronicus traversing left from the prow. There's one other almost-line straight from the back wall and out along a flake, but the flake runs out, and it's probably either 8c territory, or impossible.

wow! can't wait for the vid

The video will take a few days - Dave wants to edit it and turn it into a thing of beauty. Be patient, it's worth the wait...

[Paul B]

Good effort! had a play on this last year but the cave was such a grim place I couldn't retain any enthusiasm whatsoever.

[andy_e]

Effort! Looks good. But how hard can it be if he changes his shoes not once, but twice during the ascent? 

[Monolith]

The one time I have looked in it, I found a syringe at the back of it. Couldn't quite fathom why a merry band of junkies would travel to such a bizarre drug-taking location.

The lip line looked good, but the cave looks even better than I remember from looking at your photos r-man. An excellent effort!

[Banana finger]

Hey congratulations Dave! What an incredible line with an even more incredible sequence to cross it, it was like an aerial game of twister..looking forward to seeing the vid! Dave's cave is truly worth a visit, i was so surprised to find that this cave which looks about 3 feet high from the road is actually massive with some really uniquely powerful climbing in it. Shame its only got two/three lines in it though the line Hannibal crossing the lip is quality.....A perfect venue for a rainy day!

[r-man]

Effort! Looks good. But how hard can it be if he changes his shoes not once, but twice during the ascent? 

I didn't say they were all from the ascent, did I?

Good effort! had a play on this last year but the cave was such a grim place I couldn't retain any enthusiasm whatsoever.

It's a shame about the traffic noise. We were thinking of bringing some some music down to create a bit more joie de vivre. And maybe a mirror-ball. Other than that, it's big cave and it doesn't get much sunshine. It does what it says on the tin. Think Dave must have cleaned it up recently, as I didn't see any rubbish or syringes.

[andy_e]

Effort! Looks good. But how hard can it be if he changes his shoes not once, but twice during the ascent? 

I didn't say they were all from the ascent, did I?

I know I know, I was just being silly.

[Monolith]

Had a text through from Dolph who's just repeated it.

[r-man]

Fantastic! Good effort that. Dave will be very pleased too. Any opinions, or thoughts on grade or beta? Did he use the same sequence?

To get more people pysched, here's the video - one of the most incredible sequence of moves I've ever seen.

[Nibile]

hehe,
i was chatting with monolith whil he got dolph text. dawn patrol!!!

[Monolith]

I believe the sequence differed as Dolph mentioned he had to go to some poor slopers instead of something else. Sure he'll be along at some point to comment. An amazing looking problem either way and seemingly designed for the tall gent.

[Dolph]

This problem is truly amazing and climbs really well. I am very pleased to have done it. It rates in my book as one of the best boulder problems on limestone in the peak.

As re-guards my sequence on Andronicus, it differed a lot from the one in the video in places. The first difference was that once in the roof i didn't bounce my left hand up again onto the boss, but left it low due to reach, matching on low slopers on the ramp. I then worked my right on to the very bottom bit of the boss, went back down with my left to the hold in the roof. Then did pretty much The same as Dave untill  when matched on the boss with the left in a reverse pinch, i went up to the crimp with my right hand. Then got the heel hook as per the video, changed the left into a front on pinch, then sort pressed with a scary pop up to the slot hold just below the jug. Brought the left hand to the crimp then an easy lock to the jug. I hope that made sense to someone?

As for the grade i do not think it is 8b, But more like 8a+ in my opinion.

Interestingly on the same morning Andy Jennings, tried Hannibal, the other problem in this cave and really liked it. Now he never likes anything on Limestone! Ever! But he was so keen for this he actually went back later on that day to do it from standing, and was talking today about doing it from a sitter, i nearly died of shock. So clearly what this cave lacks in quantity it makes up for in quality having two amazing problems.

[Monolith]

I think the Jennings segment constitutes news in itself! I dare to ask if you technophobes took any video footage without any media moguls present......?

[Dolph]

Sorry no footage. I think were too old/ skint/ stupid to have a video camera. I can only just work out how to use a computer, Andy has to get Scott to do to for him.  But in fore sight i should have videoed Andy actually climbing on limestone and not cursing, on my phone. People are just simply not going to believe it!

[Monolith]

I imagine it was something along the lines of watching King Kong in action. That's probably a pretty accurate comparison thinking about it, what with his vorocious appetite for women.