[mctrials23]

Last time I was in font I had a go at cul de chien and really want to finish it. Im off over there for 3 weeks on the 11th june. I was just wondering if someone could remind me how many fingers can go into the small pocket that you pull on when on the roof part of the climb. I seem to remember it being a 1 finger and a little of a second pocket. Can someone confirm or educate me on this. Based on the pocket, what sort of training would help with cul de chien. Ive got about a month before I go.

cheers

[Paul B]

1 and a bit, I don't think you really have to pull on it too much though, just lean off it if you've got your heel placed nicely.

[chappers]

i used all of my right hand index and a bit of my middle finger too. depends on size i guess   

just make sure that left heel and toe is cammed up in there really well and you will piss it like paul says.

amazing line, good luck.

[mctrials23]

cheers for the info guys. Gonna do a little training for it. Try and get the fingers a little stronger.

What other problems in font would people recommend around the 6c/7a sort of territory.

[jwi]

Duroxmanie in Cuvier is best in your requested range. (Said with German-esque finality.)

[Richie Crouch]

Cortomaltese (also at Cuvier) is very nice at 6c+/7a 

Some others are Le Flipeur (Roche Aux Sabots); Big Jim 6c & La Baleine 7a (Petit Bois)

Little Karma 6c/7a+(ss)(Isatis); Impasse Du Hasard (soft 7a+ at Franchard Cuisiniere)

These were just some of the ones I really enjoyed last week and can remember well!

[r-man]

I quite liked Surplomb de la Coquille - 6c (6c+)
http://bleau.info/plaines/1547.html

Impasse Du Hasard (soft 7a+ at Franchard Cuisiniere)

It's great I agree...but soft? I thought it was hard for the grade. Mind you, having watched the videos http://bleau.info/cuisiniere/479.html it seems people are jumping past the start moves, which must make it easier. And it seems a shame because the move from the crimps into the big gaston/layaway is really satisfying.

[Richie Crouch]

I think what made it seem soft was being tall - hence not as big a move into the gaston and also foot sequence of starting off on outside right -> left -> outside right to press off for top. I noticed in the old purple guide he uses left foot first which means routside right on the poorer hold and then a tricky looking hand foot swap to get matched on the gaston instead of locking it in and dropping across!

Agreed about the start, 7a with a bounce/7a+ static

[a dense loner]

r-man saying impasse du hazard is not soft for the grade is the first time i've looked at one of your posts and thought this guy knows what he's talking about
le pied a coulisse at apremont envers 6c+/7a is excellent

[chappers]

i thought that impasse du hazard was brick hard and a total sand bag. and also a nasty fall into the sketchy slab/canyon combo.

this is the most important thing said on this thread:

Duroxmanie in Cuvier is best in your requested range. (Said with German-esque finality.)

it is at cuvier rampart

helecopter at cuvier is scary and high, but amazing (careful how you pad it!)

what about la balaine (??) translates as "the whale?" there is a vid of gaz on it somewhere, at buthiers??

[Paul B]

la baleine - petit bois.




Its good but theres not a lot else there and some of the boulders had been covered in spray paint last time I was there.

[dave]

personally i never understood the point of helicoptre. the arete on its own makes a good 6b problem, and abbotoir is easier, and has the added benefit that you aren't likely to end up quadraspazzed on a life-glug as a result of falling off it.

I found impasse pretty OK, but then we were french-starting it (what with it being in france). I originally did it the foot-to-hand way like the pink guide photo, but subsequently realised its easier to match the big gaston thing before getting a foot up.

Entorse just next to it is a class arete/jump problem if that's anyones bag.

[GCW]

you aren't likely to end up quadraspazzed on a life-glug as a result of falling off it.

What are you on about, Dave?  Is this just The Twisted Brainwrongs Of A One-Off Manmental?

[Paul B]

Think someone had a nasty incident with the tree that used to be a resident right about where you land. Not so sure about l'Abbatoir being easier mind you...

[dave]

abbatoir is OK once you are off the arete and on the holds proper - the mistake most brits make is being scared of the ultra-poffed footholds hence trying to stayt on the arete as long as possible, which makes getting back across nails. if you sack the arete off ASAP, (or indeed don't use it at all) then its much easier and climbs a lot nicer too.

[Paul B]

I was trying abbatoir a long time ago when some old french geezer came and told us that there was an awesome fingerlock to be had, he then proceeded to give us a demo. We then tried it a few times this way getting nowehre. When he came back around he started gesturing and showing us again and I realised just why that sequence wouldnt work for us! he had a massive growth on the finger he was torquing in, it was just wrong.

[Johnny Brown]

Entorse just next to it is a class arete/jump problem if that's anyones bag.

If you're tall.

I ended up doing a bit of a wierd sequence on Impasse. Proper foot-to-hand scenes youth. 7a+ seemed fair.

[dave]

If you're tall.

Theres no "if". I am tall.

[Andy B]

If you're tall.

Theres no "if". I am tall.

Really!?

I just thought that you always stood really close to me!

[sharkey]

A visit to the Toit Cul de Chien finally for me next week, i have watched so many vids of people apearing to path it, i am so psyched i fully expect at least a flash!! Am i delusional, is it harder than Eng 6b.

[dave]

its no hard then english 6b, but theres not many 6b problems in the UK that involve holding an awkward shallow 2-finger drilled peg-hole in a roof 10foot up whilst putting a heel-toe above your other hand. thus it feels freaky rather than hard. the top bit is piss if you dont fuck it up.

[Jim]

abbatoir is OK once you are off the arete and on the holds proper - the mistake most brits make is being scared of the ultra-poffed footholds hence trying to stayt on the arete as long as possible, which makes getting back across nails. if you sack the arete off ASAP, (or indeed don't use it at all) then its much easier and climbs a lot nicer too.

I have seen jeffries path every problem on this block and declare that the sloper on la balance was a jug and then fail to do abbatoir.
Nige will also back me up on this.
Saying abbatoir is easy is like saying la joker is easy.
Also only try entorse if you are tall or have very, very, very springy legs
I thought Impase hard, so hard infact, I didn't do it
have never tried helicopter but it always amuses me to watch people try and land like Dave sez "quadraspazzed on a life-glug" whatever that means

[dave]

i never said abbatoir was easy, just easier than helicoptre. I will however say joker is easy. took me about 2 goes. i probably had some good beta - get the chipped backhand in the groove with the left. shite problem though - chipped sidepulls in a groove system? nigga please. if Jo Montchausse was alive he'd be turning in his grave.

[Jim]

NO!
Joker is fucking nails
and thats that

[chappers]

Entorse just next to it is a class arete/jump problem if that's anyones bag.

dave, you up in a tree to take that pic?? class problem (not that i could do it!) the easy line to the left with the big pocket is fun...