[Greg C]

Inline with GCW's Farleton theme, I have done a new guide covering Farleton, Dalton Crags & Hutton Roof (these second two areas have not been documented before):

http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/58.html

There will be a Hi-Res version available soon. Enjoy...

[tomtom]

Inline with GCW's Farleton theme, I have done a new guide covering Farleton, Dalton Crags & Hutton Roof (these second two areas have not been documented before):

http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/58.html

There will be a Hi-Res version available soon. Enjoy...

THats ace - looking forward to heading up that way again soon.. top job. 

[nik at work]

New Rose 7B? Wasn't it 7C/+? Fuck that's a downgrade!! Felt harder than 7B to me on a brief attempt, but I am short.

Pandemonium looks ace, I'll have to drag myself back up that hill.

On a seperate note I'm really liking the look of your topo's Greg, very professional looking nice one.

[Monolith]

The fridge looks something of a classic eh.

[Greg C]

New Rose is an awkward one, grade wise. I was up there recently with two friends, both of a similar standard, one at the tall end of the spectrum and the other at the shorter end, with me of an "average height" in between. I was keen to see the taller friend try out GCW's lanky method (i.e. low left foot in a big niche rather than on a high naff smear), which he did, making short work of it in the process - second go with no beta as such. I then managed to make the stretch and do it with this lanky sequence too (felt 7a+/7b to me with this method). My shorter friend then managed the problem the original way, thinking it was probably top-end 7b+/7c. So basically its somewhere between 7a+ and low end 7c depending on your reach and leg length.  ???

The Fridge is a very cool and interesting feature/problem, but not as much of a classic as 'Ingleborough Wall'. Incidentally, I was going to give The Fridge 7a+, but Moo persuaded me to give it 7b. All feedback welcome....

[Moo]

I only pursuaded you it was 7b cause i'm shit at rock climbing though so it could well be 7a+

[GCW]

What's with the "lank" nonsense?  It's technique, not lank.

For what it's worth, I reckon New Rose felt a good 2 grades harder than Shallow Grave, more than 2 grades harder than Totally Focussed SDS, far harder than Whister and Warton's Wall.  Now, I haven't held the break so I admit I can't comment, but 7a+ seems very harsh unless some of the other stuff gets put down to 6c+/7a.   

But I'd agree with Greg that New Rose is a very "morpho" problem, and as such is a nightmare to pin a single grade on.  (I'd have said 7b/+, but I'll let you know when I go back next year).

[Andy B]

On a seperate note I'm really liking the look of your topo's Greg, very professional looking nice one.

Not south lakes, but I've had a couple of Bowderstone sessions recently using Greg's topo, and the number of people wandering back and forth with the rockfax guide that I've been able to help out using it is, I think, a reflection of it's quality, and clarity at what must be a tricky venue to make clear. Nice one Greg, and Nige.

[Stabbsy]

I might be wrong on this Greg, but I think the classic way of doing Nick's Traverse at Hutton Roof is right to left. That said, it doesn't make much difference to the grade (left to right always seemed a bit harder). Also, any thoughts on re-spotting the holds? Anyone who didn't already know the problem would probably struggle to work it out with the markings in their current state.

[Greg C]

Without asking Nick Conway, I guess it's probably a bit difficult to ascertain exactly which way he intended it to go, the Lancs guide says: "Traverse the wall at low-level, left OR right using only the red-spotted hand holds". I have always gone left to right, as this flows far better and has a more logical starting point. Funnily enough I always thought it was harder right to left, but hey there you go. As you can climb it in both directions at roughly the same grade I don't think it's a major issue. There are only a couple holds on which the dots have worn beyond visibility and it's pretty obvious to workout which they are, however, I'm quite happy to re-dot the holds some time.

Incidentally the "Forgotten Walls" are worth a look. The lower wall has a really cool, not to mention hard, low right to left traverse and the two main straight ups are quality.

[Stabbsy]

Cheers Greg. Forgot to mention, excellent topo as usual. Looking forward to heading back to Newbiggin Crags to find this new stuff. I did Whiteout and Surfer Rosa years ago with the original topo/map from OTE, but for some reason failed to notice any other crags in the area. Looks like another good find.

[Adam Lincoln]

Without asking Nick Conway

I see Nick a fair bit in Yorkshire so will ask him if its any use?

[r-man]

Nice work Greg. Makes me keen to visit lakes limestone again, lots of stuff to do.

That rooflands area sounds intriguing - are we talking big roofs, or just feet on the back jobbies? I do luv a good roofer.

Oh, and the pedant in me can't resist pointing out that the phrase is top drawer not top draw. 

[GCW]

Had a visit to Dalton Crag Boulders, I can recommend Umbongo- it's a class problem

[GCW]

Just for clarification, I'm told that on Umbongo the crimp I use for my left hand isn't in, you have to campus from the slopers straight to the break. 

Vid courtesy of Greg:

[butterworthtom]

Went to Farleton the other day after seeing it on the lakes bloc website, seemed perfect for what we wanted to do for the day, really enjoyed "The coil" and the 6c+ to the right of it, can't remember the name but it was great. There is some very fingery climbing.
Having had a go on new rose it seemed very hard and I couldn't work out the beta, I was reaching up for a crozzly painful hold with my right hand and using the obvious shelf/crimp with my left and then spreading my feet out on some pretty good footholds. Didn't really know what to do after that??
Anyway Farleton is great, cheers Greg for putting up the topo!

[a dense loner]

forgot to mention about both the umbongo vids. you can't use the crimp out left, on that bit of wall thats priceless. the worlds gone mad, wibble

[fatneck]

the worlds gone mad, wibble

I find myself in agreement, frisnit frisnit...

[GCW]

Went to Farleton the other day after seeing it on the lakes bloc website, seemed perfect for what we wanted to do for the day, really enjoyed "The coil" and the 6c+ to the right of it, can't remember the name but it was great. There is some very fingery climbing.
Having had a go on new rose it seemed very hard and I couldn't work out the beta, I was reaching up for a crozzly painful hold with my right hand and using the obvious shelf/crimp with my left and then spreading my feet out on some pretty good footholds. Didn't really know what to do after that??
Anyway Farleton is great, cheers Greg for putting up the topo!

Sorry, missed your post somehow.

There's a couple of ways of doing it.  Greg had a nice video on YouTube but he seems to have removed it.
SamD flashed it (and agreed with Greg's 7a+/b)- pulled on RH on nasty pocket thing, LH on low good edge.  RF on obvious high hold and pull on, LF shares good edge with LH.  Rock on LF to static to the break with LH.

My method was to do the same start, low LF (obvious hold) with RF good hold.  Pull on, LH to high edge.  Pull up and get LF on good edge, LH to break.  Hard for the non-lanksters.  Greg suggests 7a+/b.

Greg's other method did the same but slapped to the high crimp with the LH, then slap the break with RH (LF not on much for those moves).  This is where the 7c/+ grade came from.

Hope that helps!

[a dense loner]

Without asking Nick Conway

I see Nick a fair bit in Yorkshire so will ask him if its any use?

chris says hi

[GCW]

More Silverdale Jinx:

[GCW]

A couple of the newer things from Newbiggin.

[Will Hunt]

You must have been pretty desperate to get out that day! Looks even more uninspiring than brownstones 

[GCW]

I doubt anything else within 2 hours drive would have been dry.

[GCW]

A couple of the newer things from Newbiggin.

It seems the foot block is out of bounds on Whiteout Roof.  The way we did it was 7a+, it'll add a bit without the block- a pretty stiff pull on a small edge.