[M1V0]

Hi Monolith, i was trying this on Thursday. Similarly I tried a few things. I felt like getting a heel cam at the top of the niche was going to snap it right off, so thought I'd try toe hooks instead. I thought that I could envisage tucking it right into the square-cut bottom right of the fertile delta start hold niche and a right foot on the raised platform ledge, which whilst never "stuck", I actually managed to poke my fingers into the pocket on at least two occasions. Never stuck it because both times I didn't expect to get into the pocket.

Having cogitated on it post-session, Either I'll stick with this beta or try a slightly lower heel than the starting hold itself.


I bopped out Colon Power at the end of the session after having not climbed outdoors for ~8 months, so no idea how CP falls in line with 7C, but Delta Force is something harder for sure!

Not sure whether the current weather means Delta Force/Craigy is off for the foreseeable future?

[Monolith]

Hi Monolith, i was trying this on Thursday. Similarly I tried a few things. I felt like getting a heel cam at the top of the niche was going to snap it right off, so thought I'd try toe hooks instead. I thought that I could envisage tucking it right into the square-cut bottom right of the fertile delta start hold niche and a right foot on the raised platform ledge, which whilst never "stuck", I actually managed to poke my fingers into the pocket on at least two occasions. Never stuck it because both times I didn't expect to get into the pocket.

Having cogitated on it post-session, Either I'll stick with this beta or try a slightly lower heel than the starting hold itself.


I bopped out Colon Power at the end of the session after having not climbed outdoors for ~8 months, so no idea how CP falls in line with 7C, but Delta Force is something harder for sure!

Not sure whether the current weather means Delta Force/Craigy is off for the foreseeable future?

Sounds like a session well spent, good work! I'm keen to revisit it and try to get more action going on with the left foot as the way I've been trying it is definitely a harder proposition I think. Chris D kindly sent me an image of when he first did it and he seemed to be getting some good foot action on the go.

I too am worried that this deluge might take it back out of condition but given I need some more sessions back on the board, it's not a total disaster. Let me know if you ever fancy hooking up to try it M1V0. Mondays, Tuesdays or Fridays can work for me at the moment.

[M1V0]

Would I be right in thinking that after this morning's deluge Craig y is a waste of time?

[Adam Lincoln]

Would I be right in thinking that after this morning's deluge Craig y is a waste of time?

Yes!

[spidermonkey09]

Went yesterday evening, plenty of seepage but the left hand side was broadly fine up to Central Icefall. Right hand side wet. Bend might have been doable. I'm keen to put a bit of time into the traverse this autumn so if people go it would be good to hear how dry/wet/fucked it is. I'm also keen to know where the kneebars are!

[steveri]

Thanks - good update, was just wondering about this.

[Stabbsy]

Kneebars - there’s one in Central Icefall with a couple of variations. I don’t think there’s a kneebar at the wobbly block but lots of variations of rests. I think the next kneebar is after the crux bit (Mr Skin) before you go up to the high break. I wasn’t using this as you had to do an awkward climb down to use it and then back up. Then there’s supposed to be a hands-off rest at the bottom of New Stone Age that I could never get to work - but I never made it that far on the link.

Someone will probably come along and point out how many I’ve missed!

[dunnyg]

Cheers for the heads up spidermonkey, I went this evening and had a great time on the (still dry) left.

[moose]

Kneebars - there’s one in Central Icefall with a couple of variations. I don’t think there’s a kneebar at the wobbly block but lots of variations of rests. I think the next kneebar is after the crux bit (Mr Skin) before you go up to the high break. I wasn’t using this as you had to do an awkward climb down to use it and then back up. Then there’s supposed to be a hands-off rest at the bottom of New Stone Age that I could never get to work - but I never made it that far on the link.

Someone will probably come along and point out how many I’ve missed!

Those are the only proper good rests I ever found, although I have also probably missed some.  IIRC the Central Ice Fall rest was a weird right knee-scum combined with an arm-bar / chicken wing.  I could never get a knee-bar to fit at the Wobbly Block but it always felt a possibility - maybe very shin-length dependent.  Same as you with the Mister Skin non-rest; blasting through at high level and resting on the jugs after the hard moves seemed more efficient. 

I really should return to CYL and attend to my unfinished business there.  But it's gone from a really reliable, near perma-dry option to almost always seeping in recent years.  During a past CYL phase, I painstakingly constructed a pdf diagram showing how all the individual short, boulder traverses (Tarot Plane, Cruel Country etc.) combined into the sport graded links (Middle Bit Plus, Middle Third etc) - just looking at it makes me feel nostalgic!

[spidermonkey09]

Get it uploaded Moose!

[abarro81]

It was before I was into knees so much, but I just remember one in the obvious corner after the easier first part. Wobbly block I had some weird rest but don't think it was a knee. Then a back-and-foot or sat down weird thing in the corner after Bend. The rest I just shook on jugs.

[Serpico]

Get it uploaded Moose!

The Longridge wiki is no more but some pages are still available on waybackwhen:

https://web.archive.org/web/20111111175005/http://craigylongridge.wetpaint.com/page/Traverses+and+Links

[Stabbsy]

Anyone been lately? Looking for somewhere to meet a mate part way between Lakes and Sheffield that might be climbable tomorrow. I used to be pretty good at predicting Longridge conditions, but haven't been a regular for a few years so my knowledge is a bit out of date.

[spidermonkey09]

Paul Robins has been working up there the last few weeks so I'd imagine he would know. Hopefully he'll chip in. Id be surprised if much was dry, it's absolutely pissed it down in Lancs the last week or so.

[Fiend]

From a report yesterday on LCCC:

It's a no go. The ground is extremely boggy and there's widespread seepage.

[Stabbsy]

Cheers both. Think we might head to a wall and hope the weather on Sunday is a bit better!

[Probes]

I was working up there on Weds, full gop, so it would be a no go, pretty much guarantee it'll be similar today with the rain yesterday. There's a fair amount of thistle down, which is banked up near the entrance, so blocked access to half of the warm ups. And the same at the top end past the resting corner. I've kept the rest clear, so climbing on the main section is as normal.

[spidermonkey09]

What work have you been doing Probes? Any magical seepage/white spooge reduction in the offing?

[Probes]

Hopefully!!  That white gunk seems to have eased I reckon. It must have been seepage from the limestone hardcore used to fill the trench when they dug the road up.
Yeah, clearing the top of all thistle and trimming the trees back, that were getting out of hand. I've also done a big sweep through of any loose material on top. This was pretty shocking tbh... when I did the fence I could see there was a fair bit of loose stuff perched on the lip. But, as I've come to do it, there has been loads of really pretty big slabs and boulders along the whole banking that have tippled off with next to no help. Completely blind from below. Amazing no one has copped one on the head up to now. I think back to when I went up with my daughter as a baby, and she was rolling about on mats at bottom for hours, all this lot perched on top. Shiver.
Any how, once finished up top, there's some repairs to the fence at the far end to be done.
Hopefully it'll help with drainage, might speed up drying back, especially if the top is a bit more open... less of a sponge.
I've also filled a few of the post holes of the metal fence, to try and direct any water running down the road, to stay on the road.
Btw this work is curtesy of the bmc!   

[spidermonkey09]

Thats good to know, it was really bad when I went last year. Sounds like a good job of work, nice one!

[M1V0]

Does anyone know what Craig y would be like this evening or tomorrow? I'm completely stumped when it comes to guessing how Craig y would be.

And thanks Probes (and BMC) for the effort put in recently!

[Probes]

Should be reet 

[M1V0]

Went this evening. Pristine conditions. Almost the best I’ve seen it. Must be something to do with the tidying! Which is a monumental effort, the top is looking very tidy.

Also, one of the houses behind mentioned that some rocks have been coming off the top in the high winds recently, so be aware and stay close to the wall. Either that or Probes was lobbing rocks at them?

Sounds like a session well spent, good work! I'm keen to revisit it and try to get more action going on with the left foot as the way I've been trying it is definitely a harder proposition I think. Chris D kindly sent me an image of when he first did it and he seemed to be getting some good foot action on the go.

I too am worried that this deluge might take it back out of condition but given I need some more sessions back on the board, it's not a total disaster. Let me know if you ever fancy hooking up to try it M1V0. Mondays, Tuesdays or Fridays can work for me at the moment.

Not to resurrect old comments, and depends whether you’ve still interest in Delta Force Monolith, but from todays session I am aware of two different ways of getting into the pocket. One involves a far left foot (which I have a video of the intention, not it happening as I was too tired), the other matching the pocket (which is vile). Didn’t manage to do it today so will be back again! Apologies for never taking up your offer, I was living in the NE at the time with no car, so Craig y was not often on the cards!