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Siurana suggestions (Read 3110 times)

Dave Westlake

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Siurana suggestions
April 17, 2007, 11:09:32 pm
Hello

Im off to siurana in a couple weeks  and im looking for some suggestions of routes to try between 7a and 8a. 

Anyone care to share any?   :please:

Preferably some flashable 7b+ and some short bouldery 7c+'s and 8a's !!

cheers in advance!

also does anyone know what time the last train from reus is in the evening during the week???  or any other beta basically! cheers

Dave

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#1 Re: Siurana suggestions
April 18, 2007, 06:58:15 am
Sector La Olla (sic?) is probably the place to be if you are a boulderer trying to knock out some routes.  The right hand side of the crag is short (8 metres)  that turns a lip into a slab.  Perfect for ye of little stamina.

Bistec de Biceps 7b/+ is the obvious onsight challenge
Another 7c to the left of this on obvious pockets and slabby finsh
Pota de Elephant 7c/+ left again a few route with the obvious 'trunk' start and slabby run out finish
Some 7c on the left hand end of the wall which is easy to onsight if you are a boulderer
An amazing 8b that shares the start of the 7c and breaks out right through overlaps

That should keep you going.  Oh BTW don't try Anabolica if you have nay stamina

SA Chris

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#2 Re: Siurana suggestions
April 18, 2007, 07:55:42 am
Sector La Olla (sic?) is probably the place to be if you are a boulderer trying to knock out some routes.  The right hand side of the crag is short (8 metres)  that turns a lip into a slab.  Perfect for ye of little stamina.

Left hand side?

There is a 7b or so in the middle that goes to a midway chain that is not too bad, bit of stamina needed though.

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#3 Re: Siurana suggestions
April 18, 2007, 08:44:27 am
Over to the right of Anabolica is a good 7b+ which has a low crux and isn't too pumpy.  It's called Rodriguez y Rodriguez.  This is one, along with Bistec du Biceps, to try and flash if bouldering is your forte.

Also Mandragora at 7b is mainly steady with a discernable crux at about 30ft.  Very good route.  It follows a huge orange streak up a big vertical wall.

A bit further afield, at El Falco, there's a couple of really good 7bs.  One is called Jinga and was the best route I did all holiday.  Stunning moves and nicely sustained.  To the left of this is Fandango which follows a steep open book groove.  Splendid line and harder than it looks.

Hope you have a good trip.


 

north_country_boy

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#4 Re: Siurana suggestions
April 18, 2007, 09:32:09 am
there are alsotwo routes on the back of a block near to mandragora,  7a and 8a/8a+ which are very bouldery and worth a look.....can recommend, pota/bistec/ys os vale/mandragora/cara (soft for 8a+ - if you are a boulderer)

Enjoy, you'll definately go back!

Doylo

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#5 Re: Siurana suggestions
April 18, 2007, 11:28:48 pm
whats that fucking nails classic 7b called on the right of Campi up the blue streak?

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#6 Re: Siurana suggestions
April 19, 2007, 08:14:33 am
Isadora, donde estas........nails!

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#7 Re: Siurana suggestions
May 08, 2007, 01:26:32 pm
Montsant is the place to flash 7s, sector la Olla has two 7cs that i flashed, Tagdeble and the other one... I can not climb lime, so head for these two, there soft. also that boulder under Monsant, called el torchio, or something?

 

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