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European Bouldering (Read 4397 times)

El Mocho

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European Bouldering
April 15, 2007, 09:17:01 am
Hey guys,

This summer (with the hopefully converted van) we are heading off to the Dolomites for an Alpine chuffing/family holiday (not sure how well alpine routes with the family will go; May is getting pretty powerfull but her stamina and walk in abilities are poor)

We are setting off around the start of July taking 2 weeks or so to drive down staying for a month and then another 2 weeks to drive back.

I want to stop off at some bouldering places on the journeys but the only foreign bouldering I know about is Font. I have heard of some stuff in Switzerland (Magic Grades and Creche-ski-arno) and I seem to remember there being lots of boulders in Mello.

Info on good places to stop would be good, don't mind a few hours extra driving to get to and not to bothered if conditions are not perfect as it would be nice just to see some of these places.

keep crankin' and crusin' dudes, word.

dobbin

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#1 Re: European Bouldering
April 15, 2007, 11:12:36 am
Automobile converting seems to be in vogue at the moment. Bonjoy has been pimping a transit van to support a Euro tour and Unclesomebody is grafting the insides of an RS4 to his VW.

Dont bother with Cristianov in July, it will be massively too hot to be worthwhile. Magic Wood will probably be quite good, you could also try Sustenpass, but I have heard varying reports as regards quality. Some people swear by Ailefroid but I think the scope is limited somewhat. Rob Smith went to Valle di Mello and said it was rubbish, but I think this was cos it was too hot. Chironico might be worth a look as its a bit higher, but dont get too excited, as I dont think high enough.

Nibile

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#2 Re: European Bouldering
April 15, 2007, 09:02:44 pm
really avoid both cresciano and valle di mello, unless for frying eggs using the sun.
magic wood will be fine, alas very crowded. (by myself also!)
chironico may be worth a go, but only in the shaded late afternoon. im eager to check to san gottardo bouldering, its few miles north of chironico, very high (alpine pass) and the guide lists something like 1300 problems.
i would avoid ailefroide also, bad landings a go go.


El Mocho

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#3 Re: European Bouldering
April 16, 2007, 08:38:57 am
Thanks for that info, I guessed some of these places would be a bit warm but it is partly to break up the journey rather than crank hard. I also get to check some places out to see if I fancy going there in better conditions.

Had nice memories from Mello about 17 years ago when I first went (managed to make friends with a little mouse on the campsite) so may head there anyhow.

Sounds like Magic Wood will be worth a visit and san gottardo sounds interesting to combine with chironico.

you could also try Sustenpass, but I have heard varying reports as regards quality.

I had forgotten I have been here. It was wack. Even with the van-wad showing us round we didn't like, but there was some quality alpine routes near by.

Bonjoy

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#4 Re: European Bouldering
April 16, 2007, 08:55:32 am

Had nice memories from Mello about 17 years ago when I first went (managed to make friends with a little mouse on the campsite) so may head there anyhow.

I fear Mr Squeek may have passed away by now

Percy B

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#5 Re: European Bouldering
April 16, 2007, 08:59:42 am
Don't go to Sustenpass, Ben. 'Tis very disappointing and will be useless as a "family venue" 'cos theres nothing to do there apart from split your tips on super sharp bad rock. Europe tends to get hot in the Summer everywhere, high or low. Chironico will be boiling, as will Ailefroide. Taking all this into account, you'd be better of going nice places with good varied bouldering which will keep verybody happy. I would recommend...

Magic Wood, Tralenta (a bit of spice!), Val di Mello (will be warm, but awesome early morning and late evening sessions can be had in the summer), Ailefroide (although it is limited, a lot of the landings have been 'fixed' recently so I've been told, Peak district stylee!)

Friction issue one has details on most of these areas. Ask Mr Pickles if you need convincing about Tralenta! Very, very special, that place....

dobbin

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#6 Re: European Bouldering
April 16, 2007, 09:23:48 am
just thought, why not have a look in the 'jura? there is some bouldering, but I dont know much about it, and to be honest, going to the jura to boulder is missing the best climbing to be had in the area, which is on the end of a rope.

Quite jealous.

north_country_boy

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#7 Re: European Bouldering
April 16, 2007, 09:39:23 am
I'll second that Dobbin. The Jura is amazing, but I suspect you would be disappointed if you went just to boulder! Most of the bouldering is undocumented so can eb hard to find, and what is in any guides is pretty hammered and not that great.....

El Mocho

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#8 Re: European Bouldering
April 17, 2007, 08:12:32 am
nice one Perc, will try to get some more beta about the areas, sounds like there will be plenty of places to visit. Early morning sessions aint a problem when darling daughter wakes up around 5.30 every morning.

I fear Mr Squeek may have passed away by now

nooooooooooo, I thought he was gonna live forever.

ps Bonjoy; are you kitting up your van yourself? I am hoping to make the bed/seat (with help from Andy Long if it can be arranged) but probably buy a couple of units from the guys at Amdro...

Jim

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#9 Re: European Bouldering
April 17, 2007, 09:29:11 pm
Ben, get the blocheart guide book, its a good starter.
I have got gottardo guide book (well James has at the minute), have not been yet but would like to go for some summer puntering.
I'm not sure if keenus went for a look up there as I've not spoke to him properly since he got back.
Word

Bonjoy

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#10 Re: European Bouldering
April 18, 2007, 09:10:41 am


ps Bonjoy; are you kitting up your van yourself? I am hoping to make the bed/seat (with help from Andy Long if it can be arranged) but probably buy a couple of units from the guys at Amdro...
Aye. Haven't started on the bed, units etc. Keen to hear of any suggestions. You at this at this area meeting thing on Thurs? If so i'll grill you for van knowledge

 

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