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Does the point of failure affect the chance of success? (Read 1626 times)

cider nut

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Something in Font last weekend got me thinking.  If the hardest move on the problem is the very first one, and you can't get it, are you more inclined to give up?  If the hardest move is near the top, you might be thinking 'so close, can't give up now!' 

This occurred to me when watching someone else, although when I think about whehter it applies to me, it's less clear cut.  If the critical move is near the top, it *might* give me psyche to finish it as I'm nearly there, but on the other hand I might say 'sod it' as I don't want to keep falling off from there.  Conversely, if the hard move is the first one, I can bounce up and down all day without worrying about broken ankles or spotters etc.

Bonjoy

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 There's a lot to be said for getting power-spots/push-ons to get over this. That way you can figure the easy (relatively) bit out and then concentrate on the hard start bit.

Nibile

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id prefer the first moves as the hardest ones, so that after them you can pose up to the top.

seriously, it all depends whether i feel i have a remote chance of doing it or not. it also depends also from how big is the gap between the crux moves and the others. yesterday i tried one problem that keeps getting harder by the move, and theres one move in the lower bit that already i have poor chances of doing, so the upper moves feel very desperate.

basically, you never know until you go.
the only thing i know is that if i give up i dont climb the problem for sure.

Fiend

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There's a lot to be said for getting power-spots/push-ons to get over this. That way you can figure the easy (relatively) bit out and then concentrate on the hard start bit.

I do believe that the nut, although relatively new to bouldering, has already mastered the power-spot concept!

If the harder move is higher up, it's harder to work, cos you can't play around and feel around so much. So I think objectively, a higher crux, all other factors being equal, will be harder.

Personally, I prefer the crux to be higher rather than lower. In particular I would prefer the crux not to be getting off the ground. I just find that boring somehow. I suppose, given that boulder problems are relatively short, the higher the better for the crux, as it will inspire me more.

 

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