[(woz)]

I went to have a look at the new(ish) Neil Travers problems here today. Although the wall was still quite damp, some of the bouldering was dry enough. I think you would struggle to do the routes though. Here is a little topo of the existing lines for anyone who missed the writeup in the mags:


Man Of Steel: Climb up to the spikey jug, staying right of the crack
Swing Time: Same start, then out right to sidepull jug, then back left to same finish
It's A Traversty: Swing time into Neil's Wall
Neils Wall: Opposing sidepulls to large sidepull, then up to finish matched on the sloping ledge.
Groove: Nice little groove to jug

As mentioned before there are numerous eliminates to do further left, mostly finishing on the jug ledge of beginners wall.

The 8a+ SS was wet, as was Man of Steel. Makes a nice change from the usual Limey suspects.

Pics on WildCountry:http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/Clogg/RedChili/NeilTravers/

[Ru]

I popped up there today too, but concluded that the bouldering was still too wet to get anything done so left it. Was I wrong?

[(woz)]

On Swing Time all the holds were dry except the second crimp that you have to match. I managed to temporarily sort this out with towels and chalk. Neil's wall was dry except for the sidepull, so I made a ladder (read: log leaning against the crag) and again towels and chalk sorted it out.
The rest of neil's problems were too wet, but the groove to the right, and short eliminates the the left were dry.

[steven82]

Whereabouts is this? i think i found it but not too sure.
Also does anyone have any info on seans roof where does the line go and is there anythin else in there as there looks like potential for multiple lines when it dries out

[Johnny Brown]

So how high is that blue line in the photo, it look about 6 foot?

[(woz)]

Whereabouts is this? i think i found it but not too sure.

Blackwell dale - the B6049 which comes down off the A6 Buxton road. There is a layby on the right (as you go downhill) with a short, steep path up to the rock.

Also does anyone have any info on seans roof where does the line go and is there anythin else in there as there looks like potential for multiple lines when it dries out

Sean's roof? Don't know what you mean.

Re JB: I thought that as I was adding the lines. In fact, you can just reach the two chalky holds below the wet patch from the ground, and your feet are on the starting holds when at the finishing ledge.

[steven82]

seans roof is slightly back up the hill from begginners wall i think its has its own layby under it

[(woz)]

ah, I know the one. Can't help with your questions though i'm afraid.

[Paul B]

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_buttress.html?id=381

is this any help? 

[steven82]

it helps a little but there are multiple places to start and it could defo go from a sitter

[steven82]

Was looking at neil travers blog on the wild country web site and on the first ascents he has got two probs at crag X Spiderman and in bulk does anyone know where these go especially spiderman as i think 8a+ is a tad out my grade range

[(woz)]

All the problems are now dry and climbable (beginners wall that is)
I can't help with the other Travers problems - maybe someone on here could pm me his email address?

[steven82]

wot holds do u start on for swing time and man of steel?

[(woz)]

The big, polished chalky jug - just where the lines start on the topo.

[Scouse D]

Met Woz there today.Had a good session and can recommend all the problems there.

[Andy Harris]

One of Neils problems starts as for the Hulk (LH pinch, RH on broken superman hold) left foot on and do a huge pull all the way to the high sloper with your RH (no intermedates) and finish as for superman.

There is another prob (think Jon W did it). Start as for Superman (hanging, to sidepull with left (maybe impossible now) big fling with right to start hold on Moffatrocity and direct up from here on some slopes.

Neil did do a hard footless probem around here but can't remember details.

Jerico also goes footless at  about 7c+/8a) but no one ever did the full Moffatrocity link footless.

[steven82]

cheers andy, Has anyone done jericho road reversing moffatrocity and fin up pink indians? if so wot sort of grade? Do you know anything about seans roof is that the only line in there? Where does it start?

[Paul B]

I believe that has been done, haven't a clue about the grade.

Wouldn't the end of moffatrocity footless be pretty grim dragging yourself against the rock?

[dave]

been here tonite and done swing time and man of steel, and fell off trying to match the "ledge" on traversty. all decent problems, felt like gifts at 7b and 7c though. felt more like 7a, 7b and 7b/+ respectively. but obviously reach/conditions etc play a part. good finds, can't believe i've been here loads of times before and never saw the potential! 

[(woz)]

fell off trying to match the "ledge" on traversty.

Amen to that. There is a half decent crimp right in the middle that helps slightly, but I still had to slap in to match.

[(woz)]

As far as the grades go, I would say: Swing time - 7a+, Man of Steel - 7b, Traversty - 7c, Neil's Wall - 7c, Neil's Wall SS 7c+/8a.

Full respect to Neil for developing, and I've seen pictures of his foot sequence on Neil's wall and it looks much harder than the way I did it.

[cofe]

been and checked this lot out this avo. all good probs. banksy cooked neil's wall SS quicksmart. the man is the bouldering equivalent of a fan oven.

[saltbeef]

any chance of the topo being reposted? it seems to have become a cross.

[(woz)]

and the descripions:

Man Of Steel 7b: Climb up to the spikey jug, staying right of the crack
Swing Time 7a+: Same start, then out right to sidepull jug, then back left to same finish
It's A Traversty 7c: Swing time into Neil's Wall
Neils Wall 7c (SS 7c+?): Opposing sidepulls to large sidepull, then up to finish matched on the sloping ledge.
Groove 6b: Nice little groove to jug

Recreational violence is over to the left hand side of the buttress

[Jaspersharpe]

Nice one. Must take a look.  Is that what the grades have settled at after better beta being found then? Obviously my next question will be regarding what the beta is as it's a big jump from the SS being 8A+ to 7C+.

[Ru]

Nice one. Must take a look.  Is that what the grades have settled at after better beta being found then? Obviously my next question will be regarding what the beta is as it's a big jump from the SS being 8A+ to 7C+.

Use the foot holds that were covered in mud when Travs did the FA.

[(woz)]

As far as I know, those are the concensus grades. The problems get easier as the wall dries out/cleans up. As for the SS, I can't remember specific beta, but here goes: Pull on at a pair of juggy undercuts, RH nice crimp, sort feet out (need to find just the right pair) LH L shaped crimp, Left foot to small slot foothold, left hand big sidepull, feet up, RH top, LH top.
Very good problem.

[r-man]

This must be worth mentioning here: word on the grapevine is that Ned and Dan V have climbed a variation on Rec. Violence, taking the crimp with right hand and going out left with left, then straight up to jug. Goes at crimpy 8a apparently. (Dave looked at this possibility last year, but decided it was off-route, so in his opinion this is a different problem, not an easy sequence on Rec. Violence). Sounds good though!

Anyone know anything about this entry Paul Smitton has on his scorecard (from last year)?

7B+    R of love of money   Beginner's wall    FA? One move wonder

[r-man]

etc. etc. left hand big sidepull, feet up, RH top, LH top.
Very good problem.

Hmm. You make that last match sound so easy. My beta last year was RH top, faff with feet, faff some more, get pumped, drop off. More than once. I watched monkey boy get a nice egyptian in to match the top, with left foot on big hold out left and right foot egyptianing on crimp. Reckon I'll try that this year.

[(woz)]

When I looked at this last year, I thought that what Dan/Ned have done looked like the most efficient way to climb the 'line', but still tried Dave's version cos it looked so good in the video. Surely (on limestone) there is room for both, without forgetting either. R.V. LH anyone?
Don't know about the 7b+

New rule: no egyptians allowed on beginners wall

[r-man]

All well above me, but it seems like a similiar deal to Man of Steel and Swing Time.

Anyway, it's all gravy. Here's the video of Dave on the oirginal gravy:



p.s. I don't like your rule.

I doubt it makes the top of Neil's significantly easier, but it's got to be better than faff faff faff.

[(woz)]

No faffing required, I think boulderhog matched it footless...

[r-man]

No, I wouldn't recommend faffing. That was my personal beta. And it didn't even work for me.

[andy_e]

New rule: no egyptians allowed on limestone

Corrected your mistake.

[Murph]

Has anyone done It's a Traversty recently or can remember how it goes?

Was there yesterday, from swing time jug there's a move out with RH to a hold that people get with LH early on in Neil's Wall. Example first hand move on Neil's wall from 3min in James's video.


After that, what? It looks like something snapped off above that RH hold that you would have got with LH and topped out as for Neil's.

I've looked at the logbook and traversty has only had 4 ticks, none for the last 3 years including none by people who have come and done seemingly everything else including Swing, Advanced and Neil's. If I could do swing and neils I would definitely want to tick Swing into Neil's so suspect something has gone wrong. 

Can put my Traversty fail on Vimeo if someone wants that to comment. As it was though it seemed desperately harder than Steel.

Also, if I've done wrong by resuscitating this old thread please just let me know.

[Murph]

Traversty fail, in case this jogs anyone's memory.

Having squinted at some grainy footage of someone doing Neil's it seems likely that any hold breakage is either historic or a figment of my overactive....but I still wouldn't mind a clue about what goes next.

And please pm me about the etiquette of asking for beta if this isn't considered cricket.

[highrepute]

Never tried it but is there not room to match or swap hands when you've got the good hold on Neil's?

[dave]

Think when I did it years ago iI have a vague memory that from that decent neil's hold for RH you roll up and maybe over for something for left, a sidepull, then top? Deffo didn't match down on the neil's wall hold.

[Murph]

Thanks Dave, that sounds probable. Think above that RH hold is a poor sidepull. Should try that there isn't anything else around really.

James - tried matching but like the still for the vid shows where I ended up double stacking. Having watched your vid since being there at least now I know there's a half decent hold further right to go for before going for that tricky finish.

Cheers chaps.

[haydn jones]

I still can't do niels its a joke at the grade. I thinkive had 1 hand on the finishing hold about 30 tomes. Just cant match it.

[dave]

I still can't do niels its a joke at the grade. I thinkive had 1 hand on the finishing hold about 30 tomes. Just cant match it.

It's fine when it works, but basically the hardest move on it. Have to get the exact right bit of the "ledge", high left toe up left on a jug, and flag like it's going out of fashion.

[Murph]

If the hardest move on Neil's is matching the finishing jug....is it easiest to get there via the direct or the swing traverse?

Just wondering where I should invest my limited resources of time, skin and beans.

[highrepute]

I still can't do niels its a joke at the grade. I thinkive had 1 hand on the finishing hold about 30 tomes. Just cant match it.

It's fine when it works, but basically the hardest move on it. Have to get the exact right bit of the "ledge", high left toe up left on a jug, and flag like it's going out of fashion.

You can sort of see this in my video. The thing that allowed me to do it was I pressed my right foot against a sort of sidepull bit of rock that allowed me to squeeze between my two feet and not swing off when I took the top with my right hand. It's defo the crux tho.

[dave]

You can sort of see this in my video.

Didn't get that far, smashed up my monitor after the heel on Sean's. 

[simon40]

Had a look this afternoon at the wall right of neils wall. Sit start at the big flake hold under this, and then pull right towards the arete, using the thin crimp with left [cant move feet after this yet], and then right to the two good crimps just left of the arete, thinking of finishing as for groove problem.

Is this neils wall right hand or similar

[T_B]

Yes. Sort of. Massive move up from crimps on Neil's with right hand to get the slot whilst toe hooking the arête.

[Murph]

Neil's Wall RH finishes on the Neil's Wall (and Traversty) finish hold does it not?

The Groove finish jug is much further to the right.

[simon40]

sorry confusing myself here

started sat down under neils, at the big flake undercut with right, windmilled over with left onto thin crimp [not on neils but further right] with the intention of going with the right towards the right arete [there are two good crimps there about head height] and then finish as for the groove

[Murph]

All I can say is that if it finishes as for The Groove then it's not Neil's RH.

The only documented route that finishes as for The Groove is The Groove.