In Brine versus The Toilet (Read 6790 times)

Teaboy · March 28, 2007, 03:18:02 pm

Which is easiest for a 5'9" weakling with a zero ape index?

north_country_boy · March 28, 2007, 03:30:44 pm

ooooh..........interesting thread, would like to know the answer for a slightly taller (5"11) and longer armed model (+2-3').......

Paul B · March 28, 2007, 06:01:18 pm

Sorry I can't make a comparison here but I reckon the toilet will be fine for someone who's 5'9, you've probably got a similar span to me, the crux bit seemed to be very feet dependant rather than brute power, so if you are truly weak then it shouldn't be too much of an issue.
The top bit is a bit run out, I heard mumblings of there being a wire to be had, is this true?

(congrats on Raindogs dan)

north_country_boy · March 28, 2007, 06:31:18 pm

Cheers Paul. Sorry to hear about teh leg, hope everything is healing well and you are back soon.

Apparently the nut is pointless as its fiddly to place...

TobyD · March 29, 2007, 05:10:04 pm

In brine has smaller holds, and is maybe more pully, but has more straightforward moves. I find the toilet reachy, but doable (5'8 1/2") near the end of the hard climbing. The run out on the toilet is ok, you're not that far past the last bolt when it gets easy. Saying that, you'd go quite far if you did mess up the easy top bit!

Doylo · March 30, 2007, 10:26:57 am

I think In Brines easier

cowboyhat · March 30, 2007, 05:15:03 pm

I disagree. The crux of In Brine is much harder than any moves on Toilet, which on the whole is more sustained. It depends what suits you.

mini · March 31, 2007, 05:23:19 pm

I did both last year and found The Toilet easier and less powerful than Brine, tho I am taller and the moves across the traverse on The Toilet are probably easier for the tall. I have seen people of your size do the traverse with a different sequence to me so would definitely suggest Toilet as a first tick.

And I did use the nut, though it has been known to flick out from time to time!!

fatdoc · April 01, 2007, 12:41:46 pm

i'm small....

toilet has a dyno / throw at the end of the traverse... redpoint crux,
use the nut.

in brine - much less sustained.... damn ard lock on small hold with footholds pants... more peaky.... less satisfying IMO.

i presume they both get the same grade these days?? i though inbrine was given 7c+ and toilet 8a......???? ( i think the toilet is 8a for what it's worth)

Bonjoy · April 01, 2007, 07:22:05 pm

For my money the Toilet is easier and more pleasant than In Brine. However IB is probably the easier of the two if you are shorter than average.

mini · April 07, 2007, 07:54:12 pm

]

Oops - seems like In Brine just got harder today! The crucial 'sugar cube' hold used during the crux sequence has snapped off!! The good news is is that it has been found and the person responsible is planning on re-gluing it back in place (or should it be laid to rest???)?

mini · April 09, 2007, 01:43:04 pm

Sugar cube has been replaced - but for how long will it stay?

Stu Littlefair · April 11, 2007, 12:12:06 pm

Thanks to whoever replaced the sugar cube. It could do with more glue down the left hand side before the same biffer who ripped it off pulls on it again. If you can't do it yourselves, let me know what you used and where to get it from, and I'll sort it out myself....

mini · April 11, 2007, 07:27:48 pm

I'll pass your comments on if I see the gent again. Only met him twice, once the day he pulled it off and the second when he was driving of after doing the rectification!

Stu Littlefair · April 11, 2007, 08:40:58 pm

Since he doesn't post regularly here then, anyone have any ideas about what was used to glue it on? Sort of shiny yellow as it was drying, and then lighter, dustier yellow when dry....

Bonjoy · April 12, 2007, 08:31:11 am

Sounds like sika. I'm not sure where you get this or who has some. I use epoxy acrylate resin, but I couldn't say which works best.

Turboman · April 12, 2007, 01:52:48 pm

The guy who glued it on told me it was araldite.

If you ever want Sika you can get it from Travis Perkins. Sika Anchor Fix is the stuff. Last time I bought some they had two tubes in a store somewhere down south. They posted one to me with no bother.

Stu Littlefair · April 12, 2007, 06:03:47 pm

Is araldite any good for this sort of thing? I'd have thought it was a bit low-spec. I really want the sugar cube to stay on, the amount of marital stress it would cause me if it snapped for good would be horrific

fatdoc · April 12, 2007, 09:14:54 pm

only source for sika - the BEST - for the job was from a builders yard in leeds, since the plumbers merchants in sheff shut down.

I have lost the info, search on sika UK and you'll get outlets for it.

it truly is the best for the job btw...

etjoset · April 19, 2007, 07:20:39 pm

I've only just seen this thread having been abroad for the past couple of weeks. I knocked the cube-hold off in early April (I was being careful - honest - but I think its time had come). Anyway, I replaced it with a bisphenol-based epoxy resin that a couple of glueing experts had recommended. I tried to make sure that the glue that is now visible on the outside is no more evident than the old glue from when it was last replaced several years back. Under other circumstances I would have used sika but its not that easy to get hold of and since I was about to leave the country for 2 weeks I wanted to make sure that the hold was put back rather than just leaving it.

Although the left edge of the join has a small crack in it, the whole of the back of the piece was completely covered in glue and it fitted back in place very tightly. I left it like this because I didn't want to make it look like too much of a mess.

I hope that it lasts and sorry to cause "stress".