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Woodwell Conditions (Read 140478 times)

BenF

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#25 Re: Woodwell Conditions
May 13, 2007, 10:18:50 am
Had a great morning session OtR today, it was pretty much bone dry and should be tomorrow, even if it's lashing down.

Thanks, I also got a report from Stig of the Jump Lion-O and he said it was drier than earlier in the week.  I guess I'll be up there in a bit.

Also straightened out Paroxysm - i.e. Climbed it from a more central position on the rail thus eliminating the ability to use holds at the start of Turbulence for your feet, so Pure Paroxysm is a wee bit harder than the original.

Nice work.  It looked a purer line when you were on it last weekend and I presume you're now working your way through all possible links from the left and right into Paroxysm?

BenF

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#26 Re: Woodwell Conditions
May 13, 2007, 07:19:25 pm
Went to most parts of Woodwell today and found that they were a tad damp.  Fair bit of seepage on Tom's Roof, particularly around AOSD and the break to the right.  The right hand side was damp as could be expected but strangely Whistler was still dry.

OtR was a bit humid in the warmth of today and the lower break was pretty damp, making the link ups rather difficult.

Over and out.

Monolith

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#27 Re: Woodwell Conditions
May 18, 2007, 10:00:45 am
Any word for a trip tomorrow?

MB

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#28 Re: Woodwell Conditions
May 19, 2007, 07:32:49 pm
Suprisingly dry considering the rain we have had this week. Though some stuff is piss wet. Turbulance is a no go, starting holds of AD wet. On Toms butress Art Of start holds wet, and Beauty start is a bit damp. Slaves okay. Central section has some wet bits, mostly from the cracks.

ned

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#29 Re: Woodwell Conditions
May 21, 2007, 09:41:42 pm
This isn't conditions, sorry!

Greg,  I just noticed this:

Quote
Also straightened out Paroxysm - i.e. Climbed it from a more central position on the rail thus eliminating the ability to use holds at the start of Turbulence for your feet, so Pure Paroxysm is a wee bit harder than the original.

I don't want to sound like an arse, but I think this is how I climbed paroxysm when I did it last year. What is the difference between the original and new sequence?

This is what I did: -
Pulled on, and got right heal-toe in on the rail next to right hand, slapped the lip with right hand, then put left heal-toe on the rail (by left hand), and pulled to the side pull with the left hand (this move being the crux). Then top out.

What’s the score?







BenF

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#30 Re: Woodwell Conditions
May 22, 2007, 09:33:30 am
This is conditions...

Was at Tom's Roof and the Right Hand Side (eg H2O/NBDave etc) last night.  All pretty much bone dry, with the exception of a few bits under the roof on NBDave.  Even H2O was as dry as an East Anglian Reservoir in summer.  AOSD was totally dry and everyone and their dogs can resume their eternal seige of this problem.  Get hanging off them crimps again Mike...

Nigel

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#31 Re: Woodwell Conditions
May 22, 2007, 03:30:34 pm
This is a pre-emptive request!

Please could anyone down the Not Bad Dave end in the next few days fill me in on the dryness of this buttress, I'll be up at the weekend and I want to try my project! 

Bonjoy

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#32 Re: Woodwell Conditions
May 22, 2007, 04:09:26 pm
I'd be careful giving that much info away, Forest might be listening...

cofe

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#33 Re: Woodwell Conditions
May 22, 2007, 04:37:32 pm

r-man

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#34 Re: Woodwell Conditions
May 22, 2007, 04:51:33 pm
That's not Forest. And those are fake ears - my hunch has been verified by a crack team of image analysts, who agreed to do the work in exchange for a mention on ukb. These are they: http://www.whydidigowrong.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2006/10/trinny-and-susannah.jpg


And this is the real Forest. He's listening alright...


BenF

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#35 Re: Woodwell Conditions
May 23, 2007, 08:35:06 am
Please could anyone down the Not Bad Dave end in the next few days fill me in on the dryness of this buttress, I'll be up at the weekend and I want to try my project! 

Hi Nigel.  Well to be honest, I reckon it was dry enough for your project on Monday night.  I can't off the top of my head think of anything that was too wet along that lip (he says trying as hard as he can to remember exactly what holds your project uses - probably all the shit ones).  It was wet back beneath the roof but you don't use those holds do you?  Owen was up there last night (probably on NBD) so I shall gain a report and post tomorrow.  I was trying NBD and all bar the shitty bit at the back of the roof was dry.  It was even dry enough to climb the break/lip at the start by Rigpa and the far end of the traverse was only slightly damp in the cracks.  Anyway, even if holds are damp, I'm sure you can dry them using the heat generated by the power oozing from your finger tips. :-\

It was on the whole, surprisingly dry on the RHS.

MB

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#36 Re: Woodwell Conditions
May 23, 2007, 12:41:57 pm
Was on NBD last night. This was dry, but there are still wet bits on the underside of the buttress.

Greg C

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#37 Re: Woodwell Conditions
June 01, 2007, 09:54:26 am
Dry as a golden throne at the moment, including sector wildside.

Incidentally, there is a birds nest in the break above Super Star DJ Tinpot Todd, so if your on this line don't put your hand in the break... just call me Swampy.

BenF

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#38 Re: Woodwell Conditions
June 21, 2007, 08:32:45 am
Anyone been up there last night or at any point this week?  If so, what's dry?

Thanks.

Jim

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#39 Re: Woodwell Conditions
June 21, 2007, 07:00:52 pm
fairy steps was nearly all wet yesterday but the shelter stone at trowbarrow was perfectly dry, even when it was raining

BenF

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#40 Re: Woodwell Conditions
June 22, 2007, 12:14:09 pm
Thanks Jim.  I may head up that way at the weekend, but sacked it off yesterday and went to the board to shout at my mates and be shouted at by my mates.  Or at least that's all that seemed to go on last night.

Jim

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#41 Re: Woodwell Conditions
June 22, 2007, 12:33:33 pm
are your mates americans?

Monolith

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#42 Re: Woodwell Conditions
June 22, 2007, 12:33:57 pm
And fortunately you're not going to surrender your commitment to it ARE YOU BEN. Instead, you're going to do what the rest of us do and attempt to break some tendons. Non of this silly mantling mullarkey.

BenF

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#43 Re: Woodwell Conditions
June 22, 2007, 01:55:32 pm
are your mates americans?

No, but as soon as they put on their rockshoes they suddenly morph into Merseyside's answer to Obe Carrion.

Richie Crouch

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#44 Re: Woodwell Conditions
June 22, 2007, 11:53:51 pm
I laughed so much by the end last night, that it must have had the equivalent effect of 1000 bicycle situps  ;D

BenF

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#45 Re: Woodwell Conditions
June 24, 2007, 11:33:35 am
...it must have had the equivalent effect of 1000 bicycle situps  ;D

Which we all know is perfect training for hard bouldering.

Greg C

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#46 Re: Woodwell Conditions
July 09, 2007, 04:16:07 pm
I was at "the crag that shall not be spoken of by name" yesterday, and the following problems were climbable...

Fat Boy, Danny's Lip, Embargo, Neil's Groove, Superstar DJ, Angel Deelite, Cricco Castelleli Finish, Flying Finish and The Crabbers Link.

Other problems could be dried with some effort (except Turbulence, this was wet as an oysters eyeballs).

Greg C

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#47 Re: Woodwell Conditions
July 09, 2007, 04:18:34 pm
These were also dry...
Australian Werewolf in Silverdale, Deal in Pain and Feel the Pain.

BenF

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#48 Re: Woodwell Conditions
July 10, 2007, 08:01:20 am
Thank you Greg, you have answered the question that I was about to ask.  Much appreciated.

BenF

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#49 Re: Woodwell Conditions
July 18, 2007, 10:08:20 am
May I ask the question again please?   To anyone up that way (or just visiting), what's the state of Woodwell (all areas) and other south lakes bouldering hotspots at the moment?

Thanks

 

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