[r-man]

From Gaz Parry's blog -

Yesterday i had a load of stuff to catch up on and then trained at BUK. Felt pretty strong and did the new 7b circuit about 30 moves into a hard V8+. Followed it by doing all the hard probs upstairs like this, good fun.
As you can imagine i woke this morning a bit sore but after three coffees i was ready for more. Trowbarrow was first up to settle a score. After a long warm up as it was pretty cold i managed to link Isla D'Encarta 8b on my third attempt. Now it was time to pick a new project so it was over to Woodwell to start work on Anesthesia 8b a problem i have wanted to do for many years. After chalking the grips and getting a sequence off Ian Vickers i had a go at the flash, to my disbelief and Ians shock i managed to get through all the hard climbing and fell getting the jug with very numb fingers. 5 minutes working the end i managed to link it on my 1st attempt. A great day with two very different hard problems. Vids to follow soon.

Wow!

[PATRuL]

effort g
will we see you a the competitione
ppatrul
i will smole u

[Greg C]

Wadage. 

[GCW]

Awesome stuff Gaz.  This is an excellent spell of hard sends.  Congratulations   

[Fiend]

Big numbers, small times working.

[Greg C]

effort g
will we see you a the competitione
ppatrul
i will smole u

That has to be the laziest most incomprehensible post I've ever seen 

[SA Chris]

effort g
will we see you a the competitione
ppatrul
i will smole u

That has to be the laziest most incomprehensible post I've ever seen 

And lets face it, the competition has been pretty stiff.

Good Effort from the Paz

[Somebody's Fool]

Good Effort from the Paz

Gaz the Paz?

Flippancy aside, a fine day out.  Congratulations.  Is this the hardest days bouldering in a non-Skye, non-School, UK location ever?

 

[SA Chris]

Good Effort from the Paz

Gaz the Paz?

Bollocks. Frozen fingers.

[Somebody's Fool]

Do you always quote Mallory to get you out of a tight spot?  A strange course of action I must say.

[clm]

He called them grips!!

[Doylo]

In the words of Captain Hook "good form"

[a dense loner]

that's really quite impressive gaz. in other words fucking jaw dropping stuff

[Gareth Parry]

Vids are up at here

http://www.gazparry.co.uk/video.html

They were put together by Chris Graham and are a mix of link footage and actual ascent footage.

[GCW]

Nice vids.  Loving the knee usage!!!

[Greg C]

Nice. Interesting, totally different sequence on Anesthesia to what I use.

By the way it's -  "Isla De Encanta" not "Isla D'Encarta", it's a Pixies track name.

[GCW]

I was thinking it was different to the Gaskins method (didn't he go looow?) on Stick It, but didn't watch both in direct comparison.
I ahev to say Gaz, that you looked very in control on both compared to dynamic/ slappy methods previously seen.

Again, well done   

[Greg C]

I was thinking it was different to the Gaskins method (didn't he go looow?) on Stick It, but didn't watch both in direct comparison.
I ahev to say Gaz, that you looked very in control on both compared to dynamic/ slappy methods previously seen.

Again, well done   

Gaskins' sequence is both nails and totally (no offense Big G) daft.

[GCW]

Gaskins' sequence is both nails and totally (no offense Big G) daft.

 

[Nibile]

its quite amazing whats being done these days.
wasnt 8b a lifetime goal only a few time ago?

[GCW]

It's not that long ago that 8a/+ was cutting edge.  Standards are moving forward and there's some very impressive stuff going about.

[Jim]

Gaskins' sequence is both nails and totally (no offense Big G) daft.

I wouldn't say it was that daft really. there is a big hold half way along it, I would think it makes sense to try and use it, no?

[Greg C]

Gaskins' sequence is both nails and totally (no offense Big G) daft.

I wouldn't say it was that daft really. there is a big hold half way along it, I would think it makes sense to try and use it, no?

I meant his entire sequence, i.e. start to finish. He basically judders from crimp to crimp without moving his feet or body in to the most efficient positions possible (the result of being so strong I guess), and there are number of places you can avoid hanging around by doing slightly larger spans, thus missing out some bad holds. I use the big hold in the middle but I bounce straight to the good edge on it's right side rather than matching the horrendous slopes on the left side ala Gaskins. Make sense?

[Jim]

fair do's
that told me

I'm suprised that Johnny's not posted on this thread yet...

[Nigel]

I had written some huge reply that delved into in depth comparisons of the sequences of Gaskins and Parry on both Anesthesia and Isla, until I realised that only Greg would know what I was on about!

Instead I'll just say that the Gaskins sequences on both these problems are harder than Gaz's (or Ian's I guess for Anesthesia). This is in no way a defence of Gaskins since they are artificially hard sequences, what you might call "duff". They are not deliberately hard i.e. eliminate methods either, they are just a product of limited sequence vision (normal when you climb alone) and ridiculous strength. This only highlights what uber-wads Gaz and Ian are on rock and shows you don't have to be a cellar dweller to climb hard. In addition the crux jump on Isla is exactly the same whoever you are and is fucking desparate, plus there is no easy beta for boning the holds on the first god knows how many moves on Anesthesia, before Gaz gets his heel on which involves swinging around on fully tiny holds anyway   So lets be clear that Gaz had a brilliant days climbing on two problems that still deserve the 8b grade regardless and did everyone a favour by doing a vid of the proper way to climb em!

[squeek]

Good work on the sit down to Submarine too.

[Nigel]

Greg contacted me earlier to say he had also repeated Anesthesia today, presumably after work. MONSTER! Nice one word. 8b legend 

[Gareth Parry]

Nice work Greg

[davej]

awesome greg

[BenF]

Wow, Excellent effort.  Nice one Greg.   

Can we have video footage for a beta comparison please?  Then we can compare the Gaskins, Parry and Chapman methods and Nigel can re-write his long in-depth comparative essay (maybe as a really interesting and accessible article for Climb magazine ).

[Greg C]

Greg contacted me earlier to say he had also repeated Anesthesia today, presumably after work. MONSTER! Nice one word. 8b legend 

More like keen local siege's the living daylights out of a problem that suits him and his 15minutes from his house.

Tried Gaz's sequence which seemed just as hard as sticking to the lip, therefore I stuck to my old tried and tested sequence. Did the problem from a couple of moves in about 2 years ago and at the time (despite being able to do the first moves) I didn't think I'd  be able to link the first bit into the rest of the traverse, as I found it pretty awkward... despite Gaz making this bit look about 4c! Went back for another blast a week or so ago and noticed a hold I hadn't previously used right on the lip and directly above the first big foot hold in the roof,  I could get to this relatively easily after the first couple of moves and it made it much less awkward getting into the section I'd previously done - ironically it doesn't look (from the vids) like Gaz used this "new" hold.

Don't be expecting a send of Isla any time soon I can barely pull on. 

[Greg C]

This is the video of the shortened version I did a couple of years back, it highlights the different sequences for the central section...

[Jim]

Nice one Greg

[Fiend]

Then we can compare the Gaskins, Parry and Chapman methods and Nigel can re-write his long in-depth comparative essay (maybe as a really interesting and accessible article for Climb magazine ).

That's the sort of shit that would get me buying the mags again!

[GCW]

noticed a hold I hadn't previously used

Where have I heard this before?   

[Doylo]

yes congrats Mr Chapmale, nothing wrong with seiging my friend. Its the only way most mortals will climb an 8b.

[a dense loner]

it's all going on... good stuff gregory

[Moo]

moonblog

POSTED BY: MARK KATZ
Easter Holidays

Just a quick mail to keep you up to date with my recent climbing news. I'm currently on Easter holidays and I have been keen to get stuck in to some projects. I managed a two session ascent of Anesthesia 8b at Woodwell in the South Lakes, I think this was the fourth ascent? I also managed Tsunami 8a at Rubicon and after ten years...Powerband 7c??!! at Raven Tor, utterly desperate. I'm keen for more limestone in the Peak and I'll keep you posted.


anathesia a trade problem? effort katz 

[casa]

Some real proper stuff going on out there.

Gaz just watched some of those vids. Control & power, you look super smooth sir. That move on Isla looks a bit juicy eh?

With masters Katz/Earl/MacLeod, the young Mr Pearson & whippersnapper Tyler all out there and all very much all on fire. 

Keep up the good work lads........truly inspirational stuff.

[Adam Lincoln]

Both upped the pace recently, lets hope they keep getting better and better!

[Mirf]

blimey !

[PATRuL]

is everyone out to lunch?

[Greg C]

Anesthesia has seen yet another repeat: http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/8.html