[GCW]

Have you got Morning Sickness on your list (sorry, work computer won't let me see)?  Not massive but worth doing.  http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/photo.html?id=widdop__clattering_3_5  Video too!!
There's also a couple of new dynos at Brownstones  .  They are excellent, of course.

Good work on the list though.  Bit disappointed by the lack of distance recording though 

[LucP]

Hi SA Chris

I've been trying to get stuff from folk on RockClimbing.com.  Have had a little success but not a great deal.  Can you recommend any other really active sites I could try?  Will add Robin Cooked.  Cheers.

Hi GCW

Thanks for the link to Yorksgrit.  Will trawl through my YorksGrit guide this PM, too.  Yes I must admit that I have been lacking on the distance recording bit.  It's very important and hopefully there will be a way of getting this info into the SS, too.  I haven't posted the entire spreadsheet as it would not read very well at the moment.  Next time I am in Font I'll take a tape measure with me and in between problems I'll try and get some of the dynos measured.....it's all crucial for my research!...and of course your too.

Anyone out there know much about bouldering in Japan????

Cheers all.   
Luc 

[LucP]

I'm still looking for more dynos....sad but true.  I know there are more out there.

Thought that officianados of the dyno might appreciate this one.  It was first figured out by Jason Kehle and here Jordi Salas does it.



Cheers
Luc

[GCW]

That is one interesting move.  Nice.

[LucP]

Isn't it just!  I seem to remember Jordi telling me that he and Jason could not see any other way of doing it. I guess if it were cooler there'd be a static method but I suppose we'll never know as it's in one of the hottest places in Spain!
Cheers
Luc

[a dense loner]

that looks dynamite

[hongkongstuey]

Quantum Field (most already on the list but pictures are always nice)
Lung Dyno (V4):


V4 sideways dyno to jagged hold:

catch it right or this happens:


Rocket Pants - very cool V6


and Opium at Spittle Hill - dyno very hard to latch (for me at least):

[LucP]

Hey HongKongStuey

Nice pics.  Castle Hill looks trully awesome.  Would really like to get out there some day.  I've a couple more problems to add now.  Thanks for that.  Nice bloodied hand.....hmmmm.

Any idea how hard Opium is?  It looks kinda wierd...which is good!


Cheers
Luc

[hongkongstuey]

Opium is V7 (apparently - i tickled the hold lots but never managed to stick it)

a couple of Hong Kong ones to add:

Superhardness (V6)


So High (V9)


The Flying Russian (V4)


Virtual Insanity (V2) - not a proper dyno but along the same lines:


Patena (V7):


Stu

[LucP]

Hey Stu!

More cool pix and more problems to add to the list.  Virtual Instanity reminded me of another problem/micro route along these lines.....Big Air at Stanage.

Would you be able to give me locations of the last set of problems.  I've added them to the list and it's now just creeped over 160 problems.

Cheers
Luc

[Mirf]

There`s a bit of a strange one at rochers de  Bouligny in Font about 7b+

[clm]

we worked our way rightwards along that big dyno boulder at franchard sablons last week.  well good dynoes.  ill not spoilit with any beta. nuff to say that by the time you try the third one be ready to swing far enough to miss three mats and land in the dirt!!

[Jim]

you didn't even try the 4th one! They are all well good dynos and due to the angle of the top you have to double dyno them all (apart from rainbow rocket)

Orgasme Cosmique is well brown, more of a horizontal jump

[GCW]

I had a go at R-man's Ridiculous Dyno ("done years ago") (Brownstones of course) the other day.  One annoying problem.

[r-man]

I was mightily impressed with that clip. Hitting the dyno was good, but at 6ft14 I'd expect you to get it eventually. However, hitting the dyno and beating out a cheeky little castanet rhythm with your feet...that was pretty damn slick.

 

[GCW]

However, hitting the dyno and beating out a cheeky little castanet rhythm with your feet...that was pretty damn slick.

Your big-swinging video was more amusing.  I find it a weird sideways lunge.  If you look closely you can see the right hand slip a bit.  The skin is only just growing back 
I think being 6'14" was a hindrance on this.  You and your stumpy legs can rock over a lot easier.

[jwi]

[...]
I reckon there must be some good ones in Japan, too.....anyone know anything about bouldering in Japan?[...]

Well "Fuyu no Hi" (winter sun), 4-dan, in Ogawayama is a quite well-known jump. 4-dan is 8a+ or 8b, but I saw that Koyamada logged it as 8b on his 8a.nu scorecard, and he should know, ne?  Jump from two thin crimps with shit for feet. FA by Tokio Muroi, the same guy who did the 8b+ slab "The Accompanist".

There is also a well-known eliminate dyno at Ogawayama: Ogawayama-jump. Right in the middle of the camp-ground. The start hold became smaller after some high-school student whacked of a piece for his geology homework though. I think it used to be 7c+-8a before the chopping.

I have done a few jumps in Japan, but don't know their name nor their grade. Sorry. Anyway, I'm pretty far from being of average size over here so the grades don't always mean that much to me.

[Andy B]

and Opium at Spittle Hill - dyno very hard to latch (for me at least):

I really hope I'm not wrong about this because it would be a long way to go back and reclimb, but Opium is not a dyno.

The way that I (and everyone else that I saw do/try it) did it was: from the hole you're crouching in, reach up to the pocket out left, build your feet up on poor footholds, then lock off to the pocket that it looks like you're jumping to.

All very static.

[Andy B]

To fill the hole left by Opium (assuming I'm correct, and it's not an eliminate):

Mister Dynamite, 7b, Cuisiniere, Font.
(appologies if I missed it in the list).

Also, Dinos don't Dyno is in Switzerland, not Italy, as in the last list that you posted.

[Andy B]

Tsunami, 7a, Reconaissance, Font

Neurone Ennemi, 7a+, Reconaissance, Font
(both running jumps so I don't know if they count?)

Vision d'Escaflowne, 7a, Reconaissance, Font

Soucis d'Air, 8a, Rocher St. Germain, Font

[monkey boy]

Phobos moon (7c+) in Font (Conquibus i think)! Class dyno and a very long way!

[Obi-Wan is lost...]

I really hope I'm not wrong about this because it would be a long way to go back...

it's not that far from your place to the Mangla? 

[Andy B]

I really hope I'm not wrong about this because it would be a long way to go back...

it's not that far from your place to the Mangla? 

Sorry, I'm no doubt being thick, but I don't get it?

Congratulations by the way!

[Andy B]

Reason and Rowan, 6b, Slipstones

Cunning Stunts, 6a, Slipstones

Cunning Luinguist, 6a/b, Slipstones

[Obi-Wan is lost...]

Sorry, I'm no doubt being thick, but I don't get it?

Boom boom (sorry I was bored)