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transgenics (Read 1633 times)

davej

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transgenics
March 15, 2007, 10:22:40 am
Hi whats the deal on transgenics tried this a few years ago and was having big problems trying to get past the large  arse skimming embedded boulder thingy near the end would like to try it again as i only live up the road cheers dave

Greg C

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#1 Re: transgenics
March 19, 2007, 10:18:42 am
I presume you mean Transgenic?

Essentially although that boulder is a pain in the arse (no pun intended) if you use the correct beta you end up moving upward away from the block to a hold in the crack before rocking up on an extremely tentative heal smear to get the break.

Incidentally this problem used to have two variations: The first used a dubiously attached foot block at the back of the roof and to the right of the central tree (Ft7c+/8a), the other variation omitted the block (tough 8a). Now I'm not sure which version you were trying but the former variant is no longer possible because as of last week Gaz Parry removed the now very wobbly foot block. The good news is the harder version inevitably keeps your feet higher and thus keeps your arse away from the big block... bet you're sorry you asked.

G

davej

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#2 Re: transgenics
March 19, 2007, 07:59:36 pm
cheers greg

 

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