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Craig y Longridge (Read 6601 times)

r-man

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Craig y Longridge
March 15, 2007, 10:46:18 am


Sounds like this has now dried out, so I'm keen to revisit when I'm back in the area. Hopefully the crag will be under BMC ownership soon. I just found this:

Quote
A few of you have expresed concern that the removal of soil from the base of the crag may have altered some problems for the worse. Don`t worry, we are aware of this and have proposals to rectify the situation once the crag purchase has been finalised.

http://www.nwclimbing.co.uk/?p=26

Is it such a bad thing that an extra metre or so has been added? Do people really want it filled in again? I was under the impression that new problems and extensions have since been done.

Some other questions -

What new problems have been done since this topo was made - http://members.lycos.co.uk/southlancsbouldering/craigylongridge.pdf

What are the classics of the crag?

Who first did Traverse of the Gods?
« Last Edit: March 15, 2007, 10:53:12 am by r-man »

andy_e

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#1 Re: Craig y Longridge
March 15, 2007, 11:38:29 am
Traverse of the Gods was done by Tony Mitchell, unless I'm mistaken!

I'd definitely be up for a visit over easter.

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#2 Re: Craig y Longridge
March 15, 2007, 12:21:55 pm
I notice the only replies are from the Lancs regulars.
Is the access sorted then?  The BMC RAD is as much use as a one legged man in an arse kicking contest.
I'll come along and watch the Andi/R-man ill-skills if you let me know when.....

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#3 Re: Craig y Longridge
March 15, 2007, 01:42:38 pm
Traverse of the Gods was done by Tony Mitchell, unless I'm mistaken!


Vaguely remember some discussion suggesting that Dave Kenyon may have done it earlier.  Could be wrong though  :-\

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#4 Re: Craig y Longridge
March 15, 2007, 10:39:29 pm
actually, you could be right. R-man, check in the Power of Climbing, it's in there.

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#5 Re: Craig y Longridge
March 15, 2007, 10:42:28 pm
This looks worth a visit for NW'ers. Approx journey time from Liiipoooole anyone?

r-man

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#6 Re: Craig y Longridge
March 15, 2007, 11:12:51 pm
I'm surprised it doesn't get more visits full stop, not just from NWers! Many people I've talked to in sheff have never heard of it, which is bizarre. With basic moves on a 400ft wave of 30deg. overhanging grit, you'd think it would be more popular! And of course an immense traverse that would be a good V11 for stamina junkies...

Dunno time from Liverpool, but it's here, just off the M6:

http://www.multimap.com/map/browse.cgi?client=public&X=360000.110095313&Y=440000.415196707&width=700&height=400&gride=361896.110095313&gridn=438411.415196707&srec=0&coordsys=gb&db=&addr1=&addr2=&addr3=&pc=&advanced=&local=&localinfosel=&kw=&inmap=&table=&ovtype=&keepicon=&zm=0&out.x=7&out.y=8&scale=100000

Monolith

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#7 Re: Craig y Longridge
March 15, 2007, 11:19:58 pm
Thanks R-Man. This is a bit ridiculous that I've never been there when I get can a sodding bus from town to Preston! Presumably some buses head out to Longridge. All this on an Arriva NW day ticket, 3 pounds and 50 pence.

Would love to hear some more on the place if you can PM me anything of use R-Man?

r-man

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#8 Re: Craig y Longridge
March 15, 2007, 11:40:11 pm
I don't know that much, having only been once. Pretty much everything you need is in the topo in my first post. Hopefully some Longridge locals will see this post and give us the low down on classics and new problems...

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#9 Re: Craig y Longridge
March 15, 2007, 11:40:49 pm
I think you can get a bus to longridge easily enough, then probably 30mins walk to the crag from there.

Monolith

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#10 Re: Craig y Longridge
March 15, 2007, 11:44:02 pm
Cheers guys, and sorry I totally missed the link to the PDF topo. That's a school boy error I promised myself I would never make  ::)

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#11 Re: Craig y Longridge
March 16, 2007, 08:42:14 am
I don't know that much, having only been once.

Whaaaaaaaaat?
You luddite!!!!  Should punter you for that  :whistle:
Longridge was (is?) awesome.
Expect to get spanked the first few times you go.  Then it gets good!!
I was a bit annoyed by the ban as I was getting near to the Big Marine.  Quality.

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#12 Re: Craig y Longridge
March 16, 2007, 09:18:37 am
Right that's it, I'm going to start going to Longridge again. I've waited long enough and the farmer won't pull the sale because of a few climbers how jump the gun.

Is the wrong - I don't think so, as I'm not getting any younger.

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#13 Re: Craig y Longridge
March 16, 2007, 11:46:36 am
This is bad, talking to myself now...

I don't think the removal of earth is a problem - just adds a new dimension to the old problems thats all and lays down another challenge.

There are some class problems there - Big Marine, Fertile Delta, Missing Link, Chatterbop (guess what, it's a dyno) etc etc that will have an extra something. It will be good to go back.

GCW

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#14 Re: Craig y Longridge
March 16, 2007, 11:49:35 am
Shit!!!  Forgot all about Chatterbop!!!  Only tried it once then all the access stuff blew up.  What grade is it getting now?

Are people sneaking in there after 5 and weekends?  I assume noone has gone there in the daytime.

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#15 Re: Craig y Longridge
March 16, 2007, 01:57:57 pm
I don't think the removal of earth is a problem - just adds a new dimension to the old problems thats all and lays down another challenge.

There are some class problems there - Big Marine, Fertile Delta, Missing Link, Chatterbop (guess what, it's a dyno) etc etc that will have an extra something. It will be good to go back.

I Disagree.  The ground slopes downwards from the rockface and is uneven.  i don't mind the extra height, but the top of big marine, for example, is pretty dodgy now.  If you came off you could easily miss quite a few mats pads .  It also makes the traverse a lot harder to try unless you have several people moving the mats for you whilst you traverse the top break and even then you could have a nasty fall.  If it was made level to where the ground is a the rockface it would be much better, and the existing problems would be easier to start without having to jump to the starting holds.  plus all the low variations could still be done.

Monolith - there's a page on yorkshiregrit.com

GCW - don't know why you're assuming no-one has gone there in the day.

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#16 Re: Craig y Longridge
March 16, 2007, 02:18:19 pm
Because last time I went they told me to leave.  Admittedly, it's a year or so ago.
Hmmm- maybe time to try again?  Where do we park now?

r-man

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#17 Re: Craig y Longridge
March 16, 2007, 05:45:30 pm
Monolith - there's a page on yorkshiregrit.com

No there's not. There used to be, but I think Jon removed it because it's not anywhere near Yorkshire. There's now a page here, including the most recent topo - http://members.lycos.co.uk/southlancsbouldering/crag%20selection%20table/craig.htm

I'd like to update the topo - or put an updated topo on the website if anyone else more knowledgeable wants to update it.

GCW, I have only been once because of the access situation. Before that I lived in Norwich. Before that I didn't climb. I feel these are valid excuses.  :P

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#18 Re: Craig y Longridge
March 16, 2007, 07:47:44 pm
There's never an excuse for not going to CYL  :spank:

chappers

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#19 Re: Craig y Longridge
March 21, 2007, 12:54:57 pm
Because last time I went they told me to leave.  Admittedly, it's a year or so ago.
Hmmm- maybe time to try again?  Where do we park now?

ive been a fair amount before it started to rain this winter, in the day, evening, whenever. there are no problems. (the rock is now mostly sheltered from view by a giant pile of earth!)
thinking about trying to go after work today for my first evening session of the season.  :goodidea:

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#20 Re: Craig y Longridge
March 23, 2007, 11:48:51 pm
Keep forgetting about this place. Will it be dry on Monday anyone?

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#21 Re: Craig y Longridge
March 24, 2007, 04:02:59 pm
Should be.

fatneck

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#22 Re: Craig y Longridge
March 25, 2007, 08:09:24 pm
Nice one. Although looks like a Ormes session tomorrow  :thumbsup:

Richie Crouch

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#23 Re: Craig y Longridge
March 25, 2007, 09:31:23 pm
Damn I am feeling sick all of a sudden... I'll be at yours for 7am si?  ;)

 

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