[sharkey]

May seem daft but the sit down to Air 7a/7a+, starts using the crimp and edge of the arete, it is totally undercut with nothing for the feet, at this grade other than a one arm lock/pullup on the crimp, what solves the dillema, there is a low block out left?, i didn't try the problem today as it was wet, looks mega, but also very hard for the grade, any pointers gnarly county dudes!?.

[Moo]

A slighty bizzare double heel hook is the solution to your problem my friend, slap up into the runnel and match in this before moving up and left.

[Greg C]

Wise as ever my friend.

[LongMonkey]

I shall post a pic of the start position if that will help. Left heel out left into a shallow bowl/scoop and right pressed against the flat wall. Left hand on said crimp and right pinching the flared wave of rock. Great problem.

[LongMonkey]

Actually, can't get the photo off my computer and onto here!    but it's on climbonline and I know how to copy and paste!

http://www.climbonline.co.uk/callerhues.htm

Scroll down a bit and you'll see the photo. I thought I'd got it first but Dan beat me to it. We both gave it the same grade even though we've never actually spoken. Hope this helps anyway.

[Somebody's Fool]

Longmonkey.  Have you done Second Born at Callerhues?

After sacrificing the pad's dry qualities to the bog I had a some forays up this a few years ago.  What put me off was the prospect of it still being hard after the lip.  We were trying to 'boulder' it out and didn't fancy taking the ride from the top wall.  I'd love to go back and finish it off, it's a stunning looking route.

[LongMonkey]

No I haven't but it's one on my lonnnnnnnnnggggggggg tick list. When were you up there last? It's been very dry up here, as with most places over the past few weeks, the bog could have dried up. Excellent weather today actually, shame I've got to get some work done!

[Somebody's Fool]

It was about three years ago.  The bog was quite reassuring beneath the pad to be honest.  Although the absence of a bog may make nuts, hexes and cams a possibility, the belayer won't be shins deep.  I'm sure I'll get up there for another go at some point.