[GCW]

This has been asked on YorkshireGrit.com but I'm still not sure.
I can get to the break in 2 ways.  The purer form gets the right foot on the starting (right) hand hold and rocks over to stand up into the break.  Method 2 is way easier and involves the same move but reaching round the arete and using the edge of the Runnel as a sidepull.  On YG.com the video uses a foothold waaaaaay out left.
So, I guess the question is- are all these methods OK?  I feel the use of the Runnel makes it a tad easy but it's an easy reach so not technically off-line (for a lankster like me).

Opinions please.......

[Bonjoy]

I always thought the runnel was off problem. Isn't it a problem in it's own right?

[GCW]

I always thought the runnel was off problem. Isn't it a problem in it's own right?

It's a separate problem.  But so is the groove to the left, which is used in the YG.com video.  For 7b/+ I think the groove out left and the Runnel are both out, but see http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/comments.html?id=widdop__2_3_fight_on_black for the chat.  I'm confused 

[chappers]

fight on black:

1. step on
(pebble for LH, smear with LF, RH on higher hold round the arete, RF heel on bottom of two holds around arete.)
2. move up wards:
a) RH up to shallow pocket type thing on arete
b) LH reach obvious high big pebble. move left foot up to higher smear (for this i use the toe on my RF on the higher starting hand hold).
c) RF heel again (higher starting hand hold).
d) RH slap for sloper on right of arete.
e)LH to break at the top.
top out is easy.

all those other holds are not in, they are not needed, and would make the problem worse. they are also quite far away from the line of the arete and i didnt notice they were there when i did it, its too obvious to do as above.

i think that the YG vid is quite bad since he seems to be climbing a hybrid problem, and falls off it.

jerry named it after a game of snooker i am informed.

[BenF]

c) RF heel again (higher starting hand hold).

It's much easier (in my opinion) if you put your toe on the edge by the arete rather than your heel.  A bit harder to place, but makes the next move much, much easier.

[GCW]

Chappers:
Thanks, you're confirming my suspicions.  My sequence is the same but I rock over rather than hook on the hold round right.  Have to try your way again.  I found it hard last time.
I was unsure mainly due to the beta in the video (which is clearly duff) plus others saying "use anything you can reach".  Having long arms I can almost reach Splashdown and the Red Edge so the Runnel is easily within this remit. 
I'll stick to my original method.  Have to send Jon a proper video whenever I'm up there next 

[andy popp]

One correction, it is named after some famous snooker game ending in a 'fight on the black,' however, its Joe Healey's problem, not Jerry's. Was discussing this with Chadwick the other night and apparently Jerry has been known to fail to correct people when they assume its his (apparently)!

[chappers]

fair enough, after i posted, i did notice on YG that joe is credited with the ascent. i know not of jerrys claims.
but the beta is sorted, and that is the important thing!!

[Vitamin K]

In john's defence his method is probably a result of him lacking in the height department.

For you, it should be a case of being tall enough to reach the dimple hold from the deck (I have to use a wide pinch on the arete just below it) on the arete to start with. Using this and a pebble for your left hand, reach up for the obvious big pebble for your LH  - get this, sort your feet up and place your toe on the good foot hold on the arete, rock over for the sloping sidepull and then stand-up on your RF. Get the break LH and then RH, game over and it's in the bag.

It's a great problem with really good moves - the key for me though is to really get stood up on that RF before going for the break.

[GCW]

Thanks Andy, that's what I (try to)do, had the break but never matched it.  Do people finish up the arete or just rock left?

[BenF]

Up the arete via the blobby bit.  It's not hard once you've got the break.

[GCW]

What blobby bit?  The runnel/ hole?  I assumed you finishe up the left side of the arete- looks rounded.  Am I wrong?

[1000.dave]

Use any holds you like, its not an eliminate.

[GCW]

Use any holds you like, its not an eliminate.

I know but you could use the runnel/hole to top out which isn't in keeping with the problem.

[1000.dave]

Nope. If you eliminate the runnel, its an eliminate. If you are'nt strong enough to reach it, dont moan about it!

[GCW]

Nope. If you eliminate the runnel, its an eliminate. If you are'nt strong enough to reach it, dont moan about it!

Err, does that mean it's in?

[chris]

just climb it with any holds - if you can use the runnel then use it, if you cant reach it use the sloper high on the right. Its a quality problem whichever method you use. get to it

[GCW]

just climb it with any holds - if you can use the runnel then use it, if you cant reach it use the sloper high on the right. Its a quality problem whichever method you use. get to it

Cheers everyone!!  As I said, I can reach the runnel and the hole at the top of it from the arete.  It just feels better without.  I haven't tried it for ages so I'll have to haul my arse up there.  Might even take a spotter this time (may be part of the problem).

Cheers UKB posse