UKBouldering.com

New V13 in Ogwen Valley from CJD (Read 3238 times)

Pantontino

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3327
  • Karma: +97/-1
    • www.northwalesbouldering.com
New V13 in Ogwen Valley from CJD
March 15, 2007, 11:22:33 pm
Busy day in North Wales today:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/index.asp

3 first ascents and very nearly a fourth (but that's another soon to be revealed story).

Monolith

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Straight outta Cronton.
  • Posts: 3955
  • Karma: +218/-6
#1 Re: New V13 in Ogwen Valley from CJD
March 15, 2007, 11:33:38 pm
Excellent stuff. At this rate NWB is going to be doubling in size for a 2nd ed!

unclesomebody

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1-5-NEIN!
  • Posts: 1695
  • Karma: +148/-9
  • more business, less party.
#2 Re: New V13 in Ogwen Valley from CJD
March 15, 2007, 11:36:56 pm
Maybe you can then ditch the welsh instead of charging loads...  ;)

Anyway, good effort on what looks to be a hard problem. Is it a piece of rock that tends to stay dry? Or will it be a vain search for conditions that barely ever come?

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
#3 Re: New V13 in Ogwen Valley from CJD
March 15, 2007, 11:37:44 pm
That cross-through move looks desperate! footless cross-under anyone?

Pantontino

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3327
  • Karma: +97/-1
    • www.northwalesbouldering.com
#4 Re: New V13 in Ogwen Valley from CJD
March 15, 2007, 11:52:12 pm
Uncle, knowing how canny you are with your pennies, I'm hoping to negotiate a deal with Conwy Council so that I can start charging for entry to Parisella's - so what I lose on guide sales, I make up on the proverbial door. Hopefully I'll be able to use the same bloke that collects money for the toll road. I'll try and get his hut moved up in front of the cave, and get him to sell brews - imagine that!

The main block at Sheep Pen is very steep and would stay dry in light rain, but in such conditions you would struggle to top out I reckon. It is a very sunny place; the biggest problem is that it can be too hot (even in winter). There are some seepage problems as you can see in the pics, but I think the only hold that stays consistently damp at this time of year is the high pocket on Gnasher.

Monolith - certainly been a busy winter, especially on the Ormes. Plenty more to come too!

Monolith

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Straight outta Cronton.
  • Posts: 3955
  • Karma: +218/-6
#5 Re: New V13 in Ogwen Valley from CJD
March 16, 2007, 12:01:13 am
Pretty much given up on hopes of a regular slot on the Ormes due to a stupid decision taken at 17 to take a guitar over driving lessons. Look forward to sampling new PWB problems as soon as I can figure a route by train out.

Plenty more to come, nice.

Dave Flanagan

Online
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 733
  • Karma: +29/-0
#6 Re: New V13 in Ogwen Valley from CJD
March 16, 2007, 09:45:18 am
Do any of you guys have jobs?

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#7 Re: New V13 in Ogwen Valley from CJD
March 16, 2007, 11:04:59 am
Do any of you guys have jobs?

i had a job- last september, horrible it was.

Nice work on the link Chris, that first move on the Menace looks like a Davies special!

Pantontino

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3327
  • Karma: +97/-1
    • www.northwalesbouldering.com
#8 Re: New V13 in Ogwen Valley from CJD
March 16, 2007, 01:14:27 pm
I've got 2 jobs and 2 kids and barely a moment spare to blink. But I make sure I get out for late afternoon Ormes hits at least twice a week (How else will I one day fulfill my dream of becoming an 'Ormesman'?). The downside being that when everybody else is down the pub/watching telly/pulling on plastic in the evening, I'm normally working.

Swings and roundabouts innit.

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#9 Re: New V13 in Ogwen Valley from CJD
March 16, 2007, 01:55:36 pm
(How else will I one day fulfill my dream of becoming an 'Ormesman'?).


keep dreaming Panton, you've got age on your side but thats about it  ;D

Pantontino

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3327
  • Karma: +97/-1
    • www.northwalesbouldering.com
#10 Re: New V13 in Ogwen Valley from CJD
March 16, 2007, 04:14:28 pm
Just you wait and see Doylo, I'll make it onto that award podium one day soon. And then you'll be sorry, as I'll be hanging out in the very exclusive 'members only' Ormesman country club with Mel and Tony, smoking cuban cigars and chatting about our favourite holds, whilst you'll be stuck outside (your name's not down, you're not coming in) with the rest of the whippersnappers.

 I might give you a wave from the window if you're lucky :wave:..........before I call security to set the dobermans on you!

Houdini

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6497
  • Karma: +233/-38
  • Heil Mary
#11 Re: New V13 in Ogwen Valley from CJD
March 16, 2007, 08:54:32 pm
Chris was in a band called Sweaty Machete y'know  ;)

monkey boy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1196
  • Karma: +65/-0
#12 Re: New V13 in Ogwen Valley from CJD
March 16, 2007, 09:31:17 pm
On my first trip to wales (bad i no) in the summer we went to sheep pen boulders. A really cool place although on the day it was boiling. Jerrys problem looks ace but was too hot for it, so what is menace? Is it right of jerrys? What grade is it?
Cheers

Pantontino

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3327
  • Karma: +97/-1
    • www.northwalesbouldering.com
#13 Re: New V13 in Ogwen Valley from CJD
March 16, 2007, 10:13:34 pm
There's a link in the news item; it's all there.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal