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Angel Share ground up (Read 20347 times)

Houdini

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#25 Re: Angel Share ground up
March 04, 2007, 09:40:41 pm
Fantastic news!  Bon effort!  What an elegant piece of rock.

dave

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#26 Re: Angel Share ground up
March 04, 2007, 09:49:11 pm
just for academic interest here's what the peak's most prolific toproper wrote about this route:

http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/4755/climbing/gritlist/grit_e8.html

Quote from: jon read
Solo. Desperate route up the centre of the slab above the runnel. Easier for the tall and with unusual moves: no handholds on the pebble-less slab result in several rock-overs which require timed momentum from the previous rock-over to enable a foot to be placed higher - ultimate Dawes. Spotters and padding make this relatively safe. F8a

Nice one JB, you've done french 8a!

nik at work

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#27 Re: Angel Share ground up
March 05, 2007, 11:17:34 am
Not only done F8a, but done it as a ground up solo, the mans a beast...


Bon effort JB, a great line climbed in great style.

Fiend

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#28 Re: Angel Share ground up
March 05, 2007, 11:32:26 am
sublime, I trust you bought the spotters a half of shandy each.


Given the spotting going on in the first picture, that's all they deserve!

P.S. Dave - miaow!

james

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#29 Re: Angel Share ground up
March 05, 2007, 08:40:39 pm
Lovely little teaser from crabby at http://www.crabstixproductions.com/films.html  :thumbsup:
« Last Edit: March 06, 2007, 11:13:06 am by Bonjoy »

Nibile

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#30 Re: Angel Share ground up
March 05, 2007, 08:50:06 pm
holy f*** jumping skills!!! :bow:

GCW

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#31 Re: Angel Share ground up
March 05, 2007, 08:54:42 pm
Lovely little teaser from crabby at http://www.crabstixproductions.com/films.html  :thumbsup:
That is cool.  :great:
I'm surprised it was only your knees that were sore considering the number of times you landed on your arse.
What a waste of chalk at the end though....
« Last Edit: March 06, 2007, 11:12:49 am by Bonjoy »

clm

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#32 Re: Angel Share ground up
March 05, 2007, 09:43:20 pm
watch the last scene of the vid... anyone else get the impression that there has been some of this  :shag: going on with the cameara man!!
(good effort word by the way)

dave

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#33 Re: Angel Share ground up
March 05, 2007, 11:00:49 pm
nice one, looks like a fucking jug to top out on. Made even more impressive by evidently managing to put a hat on mid-crux. Not sure it outdoes katz for changing boots mid problem on mr fantastic.

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#34 Re: Angel Share ground up
March 05, 2007, 11:22:33 pm
Nice footage thanx for postin  ;)

Fiend

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« Last Edit: March 06, 2007, 11:13:25 am by Bonjoy »

Somebody's Fool

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#36 Re: Angel Share ground up
March 06, 2007, 12:01:16 am
God's hooks! That guy was standing on vertical rock.  I thought I'd seen it all...

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#37 Re: Angel Share ground up
March 06, 2007, 07:53:42 am
All very cool.
Was this inspired by the footage on Dosage 4 of BM trying it?
What other yesteryear testpieces are now available to the masses with paddage?
Ulysses is an obvious one, give me more 3 star beauties.
What about Catasrophe Internationale, is that in the same catagory?
More more :bounce:

a dense loner

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#38 Re: Angel Share ground up
March 06, 2007, 09:35:04 am
wouldn't really say it was open to the masses nash1. the fall, and you would fall, is a hell of a long way :o. both james and johnny are two of the best landers in the business (i know that's not a word, i'm giving SF a bit of homework before going to the big smoke). i want to know how a man can stand onto the runnel? anything else is a bonus. my theory is women's hips

GCW

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#39 Re: Angel Share ground up
March 06, 2007, 09:40:24 am
All very cool.
Was this inspired by the footage on Dosage 4 of BM trying it?
What other yesteryear testpieces are now available to the masses with paddage?
Ulysses is an obvious one, give me more 3 star beauties.
What about Catasrophe Internationale, is that in the same catagory?
More more :bounce:

Gaia is a solo (highball?) now.  What font grade is it?

Duma

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#40 Re: Angel Share ground up
March 06, 2007, 10:36:37 am
Is it me, or is Mick deluded as to the difference between ground up and onsight?
From Cocktalk:
Quote
...although some have been onsighted, or in modern parlance 'ground-upped'
Awesome effort JB, but I take it you wouldn't claim to have onsighted Angels Share?

btw is this named after the whisky lost whilst maturing?

unclesomebody

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#41 Re: Angel Share ground up
March 06, 2007, 12:38:57 pm
Is it me, or is Mick deluded as to the difference between ground up and onsight?
From Cocktalk:
Quote
...although some have been onsighted, or in modern parlance 'ground-upped'
Awesome effort JB, but I take it you wouldn't claim to have onsighted Angels Share?

btw is this named after the whisky lost whilst maturing?

Yes, that's correct Duma. And I think the route is called The Angel's Share. I think.

Ena

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#42 Re: Angel Share ground up
March 06, 2007, 03:42:51 pm

Gaia is a solo (highball?) now.  What font grade is it?

7C - like everything else?! Is this some in joke that everything in the Peak is now 7C?

Brilliant bit of climbing Adam. Cocktalk Thread  http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=230869 for fucks sake - seems you forgot to clean the chalk off between attempts!

Fiend

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#43 Re: Angel Share ground up
March 06, 2007, 03:44:03 pm
It's called Rocktalk. If you really want to be dismissive of the UKClimbing forums there are much better ways to do it than lowering yourself to an adjacent level.

tc

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#44 Re: Angel Share ground up
March 06, 2007, 03:47:49 pm
A fine effort. I top roped this a couple of times several years ago with the express intention of never soloing it and it felt like the living end, far harder than Benign Lives, my other slabtastic tick from the same era.  

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#45 Re: Angel Share ground up
March 06, 2007, 04:06:33 pm
Benign Lives........went for a walk (wet/cold/windy one) along Frogatt Sunday and noticed the small birch tree growing from beneath the slab must now make this unclimable in its current state.....just a thought......

Good effort Adam!

aly

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#46 Re: Angel Share ground up
March 06, 2007, 04:39:23 pm
BL should be fine but I think the tree gets in the way of Mild a bit

fatboySlimfast

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#47 Re: Angel Share ground up
March 06, 2007, 06:05:07 pm
Quote
btw is this named after the whisky lost whilst maturing?
not wishing to be a pedant but....its actually brandy.

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#48 Re: Angel Share ground up
March 07, 2007, 10:27:44 pm
Waw wa wee wa, and I thought BM was awesome for just getting up the runnel and onto the slab in Dosage4.
Beenie's off to ya JB

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#49 Re: Angel Share ground up
March 07, 2007, 11:30:55 pm
Quote
btw is this named after the whisky lost whilst maturing?
not wishing to be a pedant but....its actually brandy.

Ahem, sorry to be an uber pedant but the phrase is well known in connection with whisky, never heard it mentioned with regard to cognac / armagnac.


 

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