Angel Share ground up (Read 20352 times)

Jim · March 02, 2007, 06:51:41 pm

Strong girl Adam Long has done Angel Share at black rocks ground up this afternoon. After taking quite a lot of falls from high up, he eventually topped out and then proceeded to tick the whole boulder.
There was plenty of media circus antics going on so I'm sure it will appear on some video or another. I will post a couple of photos later this evening when I get some time.
I believe this is the first ground up ascent of this route/problem

GCW · March 02, 2007, 06:57:15 pm

Hmmm. I find myself using the special emoticon again....

Well done Adam

Any clue to the V/font grade?

Fiend · March 02, 2007, 06:57:30 pm

Very good! Slab skills indeed

Johnny Brown · March 02, 2007, 07:16:34 pm

Err grade wise font 7c? Tricky one to grade, its pretty unique. So that's in comparison with stuff like Boba Fett, I haven't done any hard slabs in font.
It is high though, even with the pads my knees are sore. I dare say you could walk all over it if it was a ground level...

dave · March 02, 2007, 07:27:53 pm

nice one. is the showpony title for black rocks up for grabs?

GCW · March 02, 2007, 07:32:21 pm

Quote from: Johnny Brown on March 02, 2007, 07:16:34 pm

Err grade wise font 7c? Tricky one to grade, its pretty unique. So that's in comparison with stuff like Boba Fett, I haven't done any hard slabs in font.
It is high though, even with the pads my knees are sore. I dare say you could walk all over it if it was a ground level...

The most important question is whether or not it's British 7a?

Or E8?

a dense loner · March 02, 2007, 08:24:38 pm

impressive stuff. the best falls i've seen without any breakage. thought a shark was after her on the top-out

Falling Down · March 02, 2007, 08:26:31 pm

Quote from: GCW on March 02, 2007, 07:32:21 pm

Quote from: Johnny Brown on March 02, 2007, 07:16:34 pm
Err grade wise font 7c? Tricky one to grade, its pretty unique. So that's in comparison with stuff like Boba Fett, I haven't done any hard slabs in font.
It is high though, even with the pads my knees are sore. I dare say you could walk all over it if it was a ground level...
The most important question is whether or not it's British 7a?
Or E8?

Or whether any boulders, pebbles, twigs, or small animals were landscaped prior to the ascent

Font 7c/E8 7a/No Patio ?

GCW · March 02, 2007, 08:36:19 pm

If we treat it as a bouldering highball we can give it font 7c. Does it merit Brit Bouldering 7a?
As a route (ie no spotters, no pads) I doubt you could take many falls without some injury so maybe a big E grade would be merited. Probably E6 6c then- what you think JB?

Johnny Brown · March 02, 2007, 08:44:10 pm

Its 7a.

The E grade is pretty meaningless, it just depends on how many mats; we had 4, even so we both had a couple of hard landings. I have previously fallen off the top of Velvet Silence sans pads and walked away - that I guess was an E6 fall, I didn't have any landings that hard today...

GCW · March 02, 2007, 08:57:59 pm

Hmmm. One confirmed 7a to do before I die. Or maybe not.
Velvet Silence ain't that small either. Didn't the Dawes on-sight it, or is my memory going?
Anyway, good effort again with TAS

Did you do JOAB too?

Johnny Brown · March 02, 2007, 09:09:44 pm

Lots of folk have onsighted Velvet, including Gabe Regan's first ascent. He thought it had already been done by Johnny Woodward, who had cleaned and practised it on a rope. Well that's the story I think, though it may well be wrong.

Yeah, did Jumpin' too, though I've done this a couple of times before. It is probably the safest of the four since the landing got cleaned up a bit.

bigphil · March 02, 2007, 10:18:46 pm

Effort Mr Brown. Not been to Black Rocks me sen but the numbers speak for themselves. Nice one.

Bonjoy · March 02, 2007, 10:25:22 pm

Excellent one yoot!

Falling Down · March 03, 2007, 09:58:22 am

Nice one... great lines on a fab piece of rock.

Doylo · March 03, 2007, 11:29:32 am

A very proud send as the yanks would say.

Ru · March 03, 2007, 12:16:52 pm

Well done. A great tick.

Johnny Brown · March 03, 2007, 10:57:36 pm

Anyone keen to try this, I'd say take more pads than us (4). My knees are killing today and I think I've got whiplash.

Jim · March 03, 2007, 11:58:03 pm

thats propably from all those car crashes youve been in lately word.
Your like James Spader of the climbing world

Jim · March 04, 2007, 12:21:22 am

sorry about lack of photos but I can't seem to access my ftp site to upload and I'm going to t'eygpt in a few hours so will have to wait till I'm back. sorry

Johnny Brown · March 04, 2007, 10:47:02 am

Jim managed to email me a couple before getting back to his carbon footprint spadework:

andy popp · March 04, 2007, 01:26:24 pm

This is obviously a very fine effort. Hats off! But it does put some perspective on the patioing debate. Pads clearly have a much more dramatic effect on the seriousness of many routes and, unlike patioing, are completely ubiquitous

Paz · March 04, 2007, 04:08:47 pm

Nice one laddie.

I'd always looked at this, and thought `people must surely wait until summer to climb this when it's not so green'. Shows what I know.

Stubbs · March 04, 2007, 04:44:53 pm

Congrats JB, looks like a great bit of climbing, am well psyched to check out this bloc now.

Sloper · March 04, 2007, 07:46:48 pm

sublime, I trust you bought the spotters a half of shandy each.

Angel Share ground up (Read 20352 times)

dave

Stubbs