[Jim]

Strong girl Adam Long has done Angel Share at black rocks ground up this afternoon. After taking quite a lot of falls from high up, he eventually topped out and then proceeded to tick the whole boulder.
There was plenty of media circus antics going on so I'm sure it will appear on some video or another. I will post a couple of photos later this evening when I get some time.
I believe this is the first ground up ascent of this route/problem

[GCW]

Hmmm.  I find myself using the special emoticon again....

Well done Adam 

Any clue to the V/font grade?

[Fiend]

Very good! Slab skills indeed 

[Johnny Brown]

Err grade wise font 7c? Tricky one to grade, its pretty unique. So that's in comparison with stuff like Boba Fett, I haven't done any hard slabs in font.
It is high though, even with the pads my knees are sore. I dare say you could walk all over it if it was a ground level...

[dave]

nice one. is the showpony title for black rocks up for grabs?

[GCW]

Err grade wise font 7c? Tricky one to grade, its pretty unique. So that's in comparison with stuff like Boba Fett, I haven't done any hard slabs in font.
It is high though, even with the pads my knees are sore. I dare say you could walk all over it if it was a ground level...

The most important question is whether or not it's British 7a?
Or E8?

[a dense loner]

impressive stuff. the best falls i've seen without any breakage. thought a shark was after her on the top-out

[Falling Down]

Err grade wise font 7c? Tricky one to grade, its pretty unique. So that's in comparison with stuff like Boba Fett, I haven't done any hard slabs in font.
It is high though, even with the pads my knees are sore. I dare say you could walk all over it if it was a ground level...

The most important question is whether or not it's British 7a?
Or E8?

Or whether any boulders, pebbles, twigs, or small animals were landscaped prior to the ascent

Font 7c/E8 7a/No Patio ?

[GCW]

If we treat it as a bouldering highball we can give it font 7c.  Does it merit Brit Bouldering 7a?
As a route (ie no spotters, no pads) I doubt you could take many falls without some injury so maybe a big E grade would be merited.  Probably E6 6c then- what you think JB?

[Johnny Brown]

Its 7a.

The E grade is pretty meaningless, it just depends on how many mats; we had 4, even so we both had a couple of hard landings. I have previously fallen off the top of Velvet Silence sans pads and walked away - that I guess was an E6 fall, I didn't have any landings that hard today...

[GCW]

Hmmm.  One confirmed 7a to do before I die.  Or maybe not.
Velvet Silence ain't that small either.  Didn't the Dawes on-sight it, or is my memory going?
Anyway, good effort again with TAS   
Did you do JOAB too?

[Johnny Brown]

Lots of folk have onsighted Velvet, including Gabe Regan's first ascent. He thought it had already been done by Johnny Woodward, who had cleaned and practised it on a rope. Well that's the story I think, though it may well be wrong.

Yeah, did Jumpin' too, though I've done this a couple of times before. It is probably the safest of the four since the landing got cleaned up a bit.

[bigphil]

Effort Mr Brown.  Not been to Black Rocks me sen but the numbers speak for themselves.  Nice one.

[Bonjoy]

Excellent one yoot! 

[Falling Down]

Nice one... great lines on a fab piece of rock. 

[Doylo]

A very proud send as the yanks would say.

[Ru]

Well done. A great tick.

[Johnny Brown]

Anyone keen to try this, I'd say take more pads than us (4). My knees are killing today and I think I've got whiplash.

[Jim]

thats propably from all those car crashes youve been in lately word.
Your like James Spader of the climbing world

[Jim]

sorry about lack of photos but I can't seem to access my ftp site to upload and I'm going to t'eygpt in a few hours so will have to wait till I'm back. sorry

[Johnny Brown]

Jim managed to email me a couple before getting back to his carbon footprint spadework:

[andy popp]

This is obviously a very fine effort. Hats off! But it does put some perspective on the patioing debate. Pads clearly have a much more dramatic effect on the seriousness of many routes and, unlike patioing, are completely ubiquitous

[Paz]

Nice one laddie.

I'd always looked at this, and thought `people must surely wait until summer to climb this when it's not so green'.  Shows what I know.

[Stubbs]

Congrats JB, looks like a great bit of climbing, am well psyched to check out this bloc now.

[Sloper]

sublime, I trust you bought the spotters a half of shandy each.

[Houdini]

Fantastic news!  Bon effort!  What an elegant piece of rock.

[dave]

just for academic interest here's what the peak's most prolific toproper wrote about this route:

http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/4755/climbing/gritlist/grit_e8.html

Solo. Desperate route up the centre of the slab above the runnel. Easier for the tall and with unusual moves: no handholds on the pebble-less slab result in several rock-overs which require timed momentum from the previous rock-over to enable a foot to be placed higher - ultimate Dawes. Spotters and padding make this relatively safe. F8a

Nice one JB, you've done french 8a!

[nik at work]

Not only done F8a, but done it as a ground up solo, the mans a beast...


Bon effort JB, a great line climbed in great style.

[Fiend]

sublime, I trust you bought the spotters a half of shandy each.

Given the spotting going on in the first picture, that's all they deserve!

P.S. Dave - miaow!

[james]

Lovely little teaser from crabby at http://www.crabstixproductions.com/films.html 

[Nibile]

holy f*** jumping skills!!!

[GCW]

Lovely little teaser from crabby at http://www.crabstixproductions.com/films.html 

That is cool. 
I'm surprised it was only your knees that were sore considering the number of times you landed on your arse.
What a waste of chalk at the end though....

[clm]

watch the last scene of the vid... anyone else get the impression that there has been some of this  going on with the cameara man!!
(good effort word by the way)

[dave]

nice one, looks like a fucking jug to top out on. Made even more impressive by evidently managing to put a hat on mid-crux. Not sure it outdoes katz for changing boots mid problem on mr fantastic.

[yoda]

Nice footage thanx for postin 

[Fiend]

Lovely little teaser from crabby at http://www.crabstixproductions.com/films.html

Niiiiiice 

[Somebody's Fool]

God's hooks! That guy was standing on vertical rock.  I thought I'd seen it all...

[nash1]

All very cool.
Was this inspired by the footage on Dosage 4 of BM trying it?
What other yesteryear testpieces are now available to the masses with paddage?
Ulysses is an obvious one, give me more 3 star beauties.
What about Catasrophe Internationale, is that in the same catagory?
More more

[a dense loner]

wouldn't really say it was open to the masses nash1. the fall, and you would fall, is a hell of a long way . both james and johnny are two of the best landers in the business (i know that's not a word, i'm giving SF a bit of homework before going to the big smoke). i want to know how a man can stand onto the runnel? anything else is a bonus. my theory is women's hips

[GCW]

All very cool.
Was this inspired by the footage on Dosage 4 of BM trying it?
What other yesteryear testpieces are now available to the masses with paddage?
Ulysses is an obvious one, give me more 3 star beauties.
What about Catasrophe Internationale, is that in the same catagory?
More more

Gaia is a solo (highball?) now.  What font grade is it?

[Duma]

Is it me, or is Mick deluded as to the difference between ground up and onsight?
From Cocktalk:

...although some have been onsighted, or in modern parlance 'ground-upped'

Awesome effort JB, but I take it you wouldn't claim to have onsighted Angels Share?

btw is this named after the whisky lost whilst maturing?

[unclesomebody]

Is it me, or is Mick deluded as to the difference between ground up and onsight?
From Cocktalk:

...although some have been onsighted, or in modern parlance 'ground-upped'

Awesome effort JB, but I take it you wouldn't claim to have onsighted Angels Share?

btw is this named after the whisky lost whilst maturing?

Yes, that's correct Duma. And I think the route is called The Angel's Share. I think.

[Ena]

Gaia is a solo (highball?) now.  What font grade is it?

7C - like everything else?! Is this some in joke that everything in the Peak is now 7C?

Brilliant bit of climbing Adam. Cocktalk Thread  http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=230869 for fucks sake - seems you forgot to clean the chalk off between attempts!

[Fiend]

It's called Rocktalk. If you really want to be dismissive of the UKClimbing forums there are much better ways to do it than lowering yourself to an adjacent level.

[tc]

A fine effort. I top roped this a couple of times several years ago with the express intention of never soloing it and it felt like the living end, far harder than Benign Lives, my other slabtastic tick from the same era.  

[north_country_boy]

Benign Lives........went for a walk (wet/cold/windy one) along Frogatt Sunday and noticed the small birch tree growing from beneath the slab must now make this unclimable in its current state.....just a thought......

Good effort Adam!

[aly]

BL should be fine but I think the tree gets in the way of Mild a bit

[fatboySlimfast]

btw is this named after the whisky lost whilst maturing?

not wishing to be a pedant but....its actually brandy.

[Eddies]

Waw wa wee wa, and I thought BM was awesome for just getting up the runnel and onto the slab in Dosage4.
Beenie's off to ya JB

[Sloper]

btw is this named after the whisky lost whilst maturing?

not wishing to be a pedant but....its actually brandy.

Ahem, sorry to be an uber pedant but the phrase is well known in connection with whisky, never heard it mentioned with regard to cognac / armagnac.

[GraemeA]

Ahem, sorry to be an uber pedant but the phrase is well known in connection with whisky, never heard it mentioned with regard to cognac / armagnac.

Ahem, term is used in wine making re evaporation from oak barrels. Or after distillation in general. 

[jwi]

Well impressive slabclimbing. And I am never going to take a premeditated fall from the top of an 8 meter route on to a few crashpads that's for sure. I fell from just short of the 7 meter mark onto two crashpads once and that hurt enough, thank you.

Groundfalls are a bit random. I once fell 9 meters to the ground, no pads, fucked my kneecap and had some pain on and off for a couple of months but was basically OK, didn't even go to the hospital. On the other hand, last autumn, I fell completely out of control in the gym, from 4-5 m perhaps, landed on the edge of the gym mattress, completely torn a ligament in the ankle and got partial ruptures on a bunch of them, will never regain full straight in the foot.

[fatboySlimfast]

Ahem, sorry to be an uber pedant but the phrase is well known in connection with whisky, never heard it mentioned with regard to cognac / armagnac.

Ahem, term is used in wine making re evaporation from oak barrels. Or after distillation in general. 

so is this uber uber pedantry

[GraemeA]

so is this uber uber pedantry

I prefer to think of it as super dooper uber pedantry

[Duma]

But if the route name was referring to wine or brandy/cognac, then the thread title would be "La Part d'Ange ground up" shirley?

I think I'm beyond pedantry now...

[simes]

"Velvet Silence ain't that small either.  Didn't the Dawes on-sight it, or is my memory going?"

I onsighted velvet silence in about '93. It was my first E6. Cheers.

[GCW]

"Velvet Silence ain't that small either.  Didn't the Dawes on-sight it, or is my memory going?"

I onsighted velvet silence in about '93. It was my first E6. Cheers.

Well done, both for the on-sight and posting something that is on-topic!!!!

[Idol eyes]

Easy my Man! nice job...
You looking good on the slide, at  must be all the lime juice and stale bread,,,
your a fucking dude, Dude.