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Harris bags last line on the Remergence block (Read 3854 times)

Bonjoy

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Just received a text from Andy. "Just did that project right of Blind Date. Skin destroyed. same holds as other day but different order. Awesome slap to break off that pebble."
 Obvious line spotted by many people, tried by few. Heinous pebble pulling. Big H was trying this with Andy Banks last Sunday and both were looking good on it. 7c was mentioned this week but later revised to a more likely sounding 7c+. I'm sure Andy pop up with a name and grade.

Bonjoy

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 "Called it Blind Fury. gonna have to give it 7C with new sequence."

 How does a 7C remain unclimbed until 2007 on the most popular hard boulder/buttress in the peak? Crazy horses!

north_country_boy

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Saw this chalked up on monday & presumed it had been done since Ru's guide....

Looks henous to be honest....... Good effort though!

Linking into Blind Ali would give a good finish.... :-\

dave

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7c, a mere half-letter grade harder than blind date? let me stroke me big long beard. if the banks didn't do it suggests its 7c+ minimum.
i have nearly been laughed off the crag before for suggesting this potential line!

Opens up the possibility of the most classic of uber-links, that of blind ali into the new problem, reverse blind date to the low lip, then up blind fig, across the top lip into the arete problem, reverse submergence, up blind drunk, finishing along the slot traverse and then up mutiny crack. font 8c+ and VS 7b?

all the above is said from the comfort of my armchair.

Bonjoy

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 I thought similar regards the grade. Harris reckons he used a different sequence to the one they were trying last week, something about using a gnarly pebble with one hand and lots of intermediates with the other, then a slap for the break. Even so....

Andy B

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Bollocks.


Nice one Andy.

I reckon, 7c is probably about right, I was just waiting for my split tip to heal before getting back on it, as I thought the sequence we were using on Sunday would work. Two splits on the same tip was getting a bit much though, even with Bonjoys supaduper glue.

Johnny Brown

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Couple of pics from last sunday's attempts:
Crimpin Arthur bearing down.

Andy B getting very close

I reckon this will settle at a higher grade, as not everyone's nickname is 'Crimping'.

cofe

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he was only bouldering for fun though.

Johnny Brown

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NB those photos are of course of the old sequence...

GCW

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he was only bouldering for fun though.
He doesn't boulder for power.....

Scouse D

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Andy's jumper is so long he tucks it into his boots...

Bonjoy

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All caught on film by Mr Heap I think

Dolly

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Does it finish in the break or the full long finish to BD ?
Looks hard if given 7c just to the break ?

Bonjoy

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There are no decent holds in the break under the roof. I'm pretty sure you have to slap from the RH pebble to the good hold/break on the lip of the overlap above. No idea what next, but the hard bit will be over by then either way.

Andy Harris

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Currently sitting at home feeling horendous. My headache from yesterday got worse and worse resulting in no sleep and having to explaing to Siobhan that I hadn't pissed in the bed but was sweating all night like a waterfall. Think I got the problem at the right time as now difficult getting up the stairs let alone pulling on tiny pebbles.

It's really quite a cool problem if you don't mind pulling on those sorts of holds. In retrospect I think the way we tried it in the photos is as difficult as the way I did it. The photo sequence requires a hard move out to the pebble. I did it reaching from the lip (same holds) and stretch to pebble with RH, it's then v.hard to hold and move left into the sloper. The last move is amazing. Ignore all the crappy crozzle in the break and do a school stylee boint to the high break. It's amazing you can do such a slap off such a small hold.

Rich Heap did indeed get all the footage and will try to get it on his website next week. I'll put a link here when it's done.

As for grades well it's a pretty specific style of climbing and won't suit the masses or anyone with too much mass. I thought a good 7c but maybe it's harder.

Incedently, Jenny Woodward was up from Yorkshire and managed a rapid ascent of Blind Ali.

Doylo

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Is it true you only went to Hueco to train for this problem Andy? Bon effort.

Andy Harris

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Rich Heap just put the footage of Blind Fury on the slackjaw site. You need to go to the following as there's no link on the site yet.

www.slackjaw.co.uk/blindfury

It's about 10mb in B&W and opens in a pop up. My skin is still destroyed 2 weeks later. Enjoy!

GCW

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Cheers!
Seems to work with Right Click/Save Target on Andy's link too.

Houdini

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He's got a blue pumpkin on his swede!

Jim

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Good effort Andy. I must say I don't think I will ever try this problem tho. Nothing about it looks pleasant

highrepute

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Dragging up an old one.

Looked at this recently and wasn't sure how far right of blind date to go? Looka.aure to suit someone of my lack of weight. Any info, access to the old pics or video greatly appreciated.

Andy B

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Hi James. Going back a bit, but itís something like:
Lh on two pebble cluster on lip
Rh either on lip or one of the undercuts at the back
Feet on the ledge at the back
Rh up to a sharp pebble
Lf up to the rail under the lip that you use for your hand on the start of blind date
Lh up to a slopey dish
Lh again to decent hold over top lip.
...ish
Hope that helps.

Nigel

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You forgot "split all your tips, go home cursing"...

Andy B

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Yeah, probably. I didnít split when I did it, but Andy got a monster when he did it. The week or so before it got done I reopened a glued split on it, but the actual split was done on blind drunk.

highrepute

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Hi James. Going back a bit, but itís something like:
Lh on two pebble cluster on lip
Rh either on lip or one of the undercuts at the back
Feet on the ledge at the back
Rh up to a sharp pebble
Lf up to the rail under the lip that you use for your hand on the start of blind date
Lh up to a slopey dish
Lh again to decent hold over top lip.
...ish
Hope that helps.

Cheers Andy. That makes sense.

And thanks nige. I'll let you know how my tips fair!