UKBouldering.com

What problem has given you the most grief? (Read 9616 times)

hongkongstuey

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1422
  • Karma: +46/-0
    • http://www.hongkongclimbing.com
Quote from: "dave"
If it makes you feel superior, apparently a well known "E10" climber was spotted failing on it a few weeks ago....... :8)


that narrows the field down a bit! i've seen some very strong climbers failing on it and have relished in nonchelently dispatching it infront of them, oh to have problems wired!

fatboySlimfast

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1557
  • Karma: +49/-1
in reply to the first posts on this subject, i first tried WSS in 1988 with jason Myers, a session that ended with me sliding off down the hillside on the sheet of lino we had at the bottom and fucking me knee!!!!!!!
Tried it on and off for years always trying same sequence, never reaching third sidepull cos couldnt reach, then tried it with fatdoc years later with some ridiculous equence and got up to last move for jug first go, still took several months after that! So thats a grand total of 13 years!!!!!!
strangely I can do it conditions willing nearly every time now

Pantontino

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3327
  • Karma: +97/-1
    • www.northwalesbouldering.com
I've tried WSS twice; once in a snow storm that miraculously didn't touch the front face of the crag (when I very nearly did it), and once with Darren Stephenson (strong Jock) who preceded to show me in an apparently effortless fashion, 3 different methods. Bastard!

I'd love to do it, and if I lived in Sheffield (god forbid) I would be on it every night.

Simon.

dave

  • Guest
Quote from: "dave"
....currently there are some ongoing ones that are taking forever, like the press, submergence etc.


scratch the press from that list.






 :up:

Bubba

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 15367
  • Karma: +286/-6
Congratulations  :D

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4944
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
Quote from: "dave"
Quote from: "dave"
....currently there are some ongoing ones that are taking forever, like the press, submergence etc.


scratch the press from that list.
:up:


Its really not that hard is it! Now you have done it, you be able to chalk up mid press move then go to crimp.

Personally the move to finishing hold was always the hardest IMHO

Nice one

dave

  • Guest
To be honest i would say it felt pretty hard - but i concur that most problems on that wall feel easy once you've done them. I've always been piss weak on butch press moves though so I'm pleased. I agree the move to the jug is annoying, awkward high left foot. Also going up to the top break is interesting when you are blind to all the footholds, as I was.

Fell off Rubicon though, if that helps to put my power:stamina ratio into perspective.

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11442
  • Karma: +693/-22
RE big dyno: no surprises, gresham is shit at bouldering. Unless you mean dunne, shit at dynos, or bentley, can probably static it with those arms.
I seem to remember its not that big - 7a+ seems about right.

dave

  • Guest
no it wasn't any of the above - kind of gives it away.

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4944
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
Quote from: "dave"
no it wasn't any of the above - kind of gives it away.


Ahh, but Mr Berry is short, and the static meister :-)

dave

  • Guest
aye but he's iced slingshot and that must be fairly dynamic.

(woz)

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 500
  • Karma: +25/-4
never tried the dyno...must be pretty hard if he couldnt do it tho

any advice on the sequence?

dave

  • Guest
To be honest its very obvious when you see it, its hardly an intricate sequence. Have a look on the vid on this site. When i did it I was going LH first, closely followed by right hand, but i don't think any particular hand is easier than the other. Can be done from sitting to add a couple of interesting undercut moves if you want.

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11442
  • Karma: +693/-22
I don't count that route as E10.  :wink:
There are a lot of 'hardcore' headpointers who aren't any good at bouldering.
Bet he was pretty annoyed! Every time I've met him he's been on one. A lot of anger.....

chris

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 189
  • Karma: +0/-1
Got to be WSS, everyones nightmare. Tried when i first moved to sheff about 4 years ago.....impossible :(  so i left it alone. Did it this spring  :D after watching Andy Harris and Rob Smith do it. Fucking cool problem and well worth the wait i think you'll agree. Still one of the hardest lines in the peak even though its not that hard grade wise

Scouse D

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1367
  • Karma: +73/-2
Just thought of another that gave me loads of grief and that was the old skool classic-Cromlech roadside full traverse.
I'd been playing on the roadside for ages so thought it'd be a doddle, but it's well tiring. After the pumpy sloper section at the start, it's into a tricky crimpy section, a section on big holds below the ramp to get you fully pumped, then a right gnarly section on monos...If that wasn't enough you then have to do the edges problem to finish which is hard enough anyway.
All that for V8. Bloody awful.

T.H.

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 347
  • Karma: +0/-0
Living no where near any of the major bouldering venues, having only been bouldering properly for just over a year, and the vast majority of the problems I've done are of my own creation (well the rocks really, but I climbed it first) none of you would ever have heard of the problems that gave me most grief. :(

So I'll make something up:

Not really a problem, but Hubble gave me some grief. :wink:

Pantontino

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3327
  • Karma: +97/-1
    • www.northwalesbouldering.com
If its any consolation Dave, I've given it V9. The 'rampless' version is closer to V8.

Scouse D

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1367
  • Karma: +73/-2
Thank fuck for that-I was expecting it to have dropped to V6 by now!

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal