[douglas]

If I want to get strong on bench I'll get my spotter to help with the press and I take the full weight for the lowering phase. Likewise, if I want to get strong on one-armers, I yard on a bar with two arms then let go with one hand and slowly lower using the other. Therefore, if I want to get strong fingers it makes sense to load myself up with weight (50kg?) and pull onto an edge in crimp position and slowly lower to open handed grip. Then repeat. Has anyone seen results from this?

Thank you

[rodma]

A lot of changes of angle of the various digits take place between full crimp and open. Is be more tempted to go from chiseled half crimp to half crimp on a reasonably deep edge so that when the angle of your fingers drops as far as horizontal there is a sufficient enough amount of finger in contact with the edge to stop you going any further.

Unless of course what you are describing above is that you want to gain the ability to go from fully open to crimp better than you currently can.

[jwi]

Has anyone seen results from this?

Plenty of people. Mostly in the form of finger injuries.

(There is little or no evidence that concentric/eccentric training help climbers gain the kind of finger strength applicable to climbing. There is plenty of evidence that fingerboarding helps.)

[petejh]

No idea, but thinking about it - when you're fingerboarding you're attempting to strengthen a tendon, versus when benching or doing one-armers you're attempting to strengthen muscle tissue (pec etc. and bicep etc.). But eccentrics are recommended by many for tendon health...

[rodma]

No idea, but thinking about it - when you're fingerboarding you're attempting to strengthen a tendon, versus when benching or doing one-armers you're attempting to strengthen muscle tissue (pec etc. and bicep etc.). But eccentrics are recommended by many for tendon health...

I'm definitely fingerboarding differently to your perception of it :D

[Nibile]

Douglas,
I highly recommend you to avoid such an excercise.
Regular fingerboarding is more than enough to get strong fingers, if you do it properly and train many different prehensions and stick at it for a decade or so.

[Ru]

 In cadaver studies the a2 pulley was found to be *much* more susceptible to failure under eccentric loading.

[lagerstarfish]

were the cadavers properly warmed up?

[PipeSmoke]

stick at it for a decade or so.

You think it takes a decade to get strong fingers from fingerboarding? Perhaps if you don't climb ever or get injured repeatedly

[Nibile]

With some pauses in periods in which I could climb more or simply avoid fingerboarding, it took me probably more than a decade to get strongER fingers.
In my opinion the concept of strong fingers is separated from the idea of climbing a certain hard grade.
So, to get strong fingers could take more than to climb a certain grade.

[douglas]

Thank you everyone. I did this last night with bodyweight plus 15 kg rather than 50 kg and got much more pumped than standard hangs

[Matt002]

Are you trying to improve endurance with this technique?
If your going for strength gains then pumped is not what your looking for.

[rodma]

Are you trying to improve endurance with this technique?
If your going for strength gains then pumped is not what your looking for.

depends on the pump 

[Matt002]

Are they different kinds?
I find 15+ reps assuming two hand hangs is more pump.
6-8 reps for strength failing on last rep but not pumped, just out of strength.

[rodma]

Are they different kinds?
I find 15+ reps assuming two hand hangs is more pump.
6-8 reps for strength failing on last rep but not pumped, just out of strength.

there are different levels of pump associated with failing a differing numbers of reps of a given exercise.

i was told in a seminar (might be bullshit) that the biggest known catalyst for muscle growth (even taking account of roids etc.) is exposing the muscle fibers to the correct level of lactic acid. it was described as doing a lowish (sub 10, but may have been sub 5, can't remember exactly) number of reps of an exercise to failure (exercise has to be just hard enough), but the second you stop, you feel like you could have done another rep or two, despite the fact that you outright failed whilst trying.

[tomtom]

Stop when strong...

[rodma]

Stop when strong...

hmmm, more fail when strong, stopping implies that continuing was an option. it's all about getting the level of difficulty correct