[Johnny Brown]

I meant the Froggatt routes, they are screed at the bottom and it wouldn't take much to level that out,

Bollocks. They are not 'screed', there are large embedded blocks and sections of bedrock.

A good example where either clearing or patioing would drastically reduce the seriousness of a route would be "Don't Slip Now" (E5 6a) at Curbar. Smallish but very angular boulders at the base which could easily be either moved or filled in but which are too big to be padded with a mat.

Ditto - bollocks. The death-boulder at the base of Don't Slip now is massive and could neither be padded out nor easily moved.

This was a reasonable debate, it has sadly descended to a cocktalk style waste of time where folk are determined to rant on despite not knowing what they are talking about.

White Hat would still earn E5 without pads, trust me. With pads, yes it is much safer. Perhaps those of you determined to deny the facts without checking them for yourselves should consider the removed rock was like a giant cheatstone - ie the problem is now effectively higher. Also although E5 was then and now a reasonable grade, the landing was a russian roulette thing where a lucky landing would earn E4, an unlucky one Ewhatever-I'm-quadraspazzed'. Now unless you kick backwards to far its a more predictable E5 everytime.

Yeah. You keep taking them out and the ground will get lower, fact.

Jeez, whatever. Again I wonder if your brain is engaged. So when small boulders get completely exposed by erosion, and start rolling around etc, what should be done? We worship them as untouchable until they end up as Hoodoos whilst all around gets lower? Talk about putting things on a pedestal...

[Paz]

i thought it was one of these things but had to check.



Bonjoy - will you spot?

[Bonjoy]

Certainly not. I'd hate to detract from the cherished risk element. Spotters are for wimpy boulderers no?

[Paz]

Yes, and Seb Grieve on Meshuga, Robin Barker (?) on that thing in the Stanage Guide, and Joe Brown left of Shine On in the same etc.

[Bonjoy]

Cheats

[Paz]

If it's good enough for wimpy boulderers, it's good enough for wimpy trad climbers too.

[cofe]

much of this reminds me of the brass eye special when the politicians kicked off in 'outrage' and then admitted they hadn't actually watched it.

[AndiT]

waste of time where folk are determined to rant on despite not knowing what they are talking about.

I'm still debating, you are ranting. I'm yet to take a stance of 'I know what I'm talking about, you don't' which is what you've just done.

You also appear to be arguing that putting rocks in (patioing, infilling whatver) reduces erosion and is fine but also taking exposed rocks out is also fine.

JB, I'm not having a go at you, trust me on this, and as much as I might come across as one, I'm not trying to be an arse. I'd add that I sincereley hope that I'm still a friend. I'm venting an opinion on something which even without being seen up close and personal portrays a change of style. A change of style which can easily be seen as an accepted norm by people who may have seen the original TAOWHW thread (in which you also stated you are not a fan of patio building). This I suppose is a valid concern.

The problem which has come from this is one in which folk are arguing about too many different things which perhaps need addressing in their own right i.e. general erosion control, boulder problem landings, highball landings (in which the nature of the route is perhaps determined by the landing).

A problem with forums is that they drag out, hence us getting ratty now. Had we had the same conversation in a pub, we would have concluded that we all agree and understand the nature of the problem much sooner, I have no doubt about this as we're all good people who care deeply about our sport and our environment.

BonJoy, in the age old rules of Going Live if you go on from a double dare, that results in a physical challenge: I suggest Sifta's in a vest. Oh, and you gave Wad to Somebody's Fool for E7 ground up...

[Paz]

much of this reminds me of the brass eye special when the politicians kicked off in 'outrage' and then admitted they hadn't actually watched it.

Nice memory, but how do you square that with allowing people who don't live in sheffield right now also to post?

i don't know what becamest of everyone meeting round a certain pub in the middle of the Peak, but I'd love it if BMC are meetings were this lively. 
Such as Brass Eye, some fine shit just don't happen in real life.

[Johnny Brown]

I'm venting an opinion on something which even without being seen up close and personal

Bottom line is don't vent opinion on stuff you haven't seen. I've done no ranting, all I've done is given answers based on facts. All you've done is give opinion based on imagination.

Forecast looks good for Sat, will you deem to descend from your Leek-based Ivory Pontificating Tower this weekend and come over to the eastern edges?

[cofe]

much of this reminds me of the brass eye special when the politicians kicked off in 'outrage' and then admitted they hadn't actually watched it.

Nice memory, but how do you square that with allowing people who don't live in sheffield right now also to post?

it would be no problem patrick if it was a general debate. it has transpired it basically isn't. hence my glib comment.

[AndiT]

I'm venting an opinion on something which even without being seen up close and personal

Forecast looks good for Sat, will you deem to descend from your Leek-based Ivory Pontificating Tower this weekend and come over to the eastern edges?

Yeah sounds good, but expect a good shin raking and a kidney pummeling. I can't see you scum-bags from my ivory tower anyhoo. Shall I bring a pad?

Cheers!

[Johnny Brown]

You better had bring a pad, you sure won't be getting a spot!

[AndiT]

you sure won't be getting a spot!

What, like that one on your nose...

[fatdoc]

i dont want to be seen to be moderating this free for all......

fuck it:


this to me is one of the most interesting threads this forum has seen for a year and a day....


lets debate, get angry, have hugs and kisses and then get the consensus. This really matters guys...

[AndiT]

Glad you're enjoying it.

Unfortunately you're not the one who is going to have to pay for it by having his mat whipped from under him at every available opportunity for the next year and a day because I'm not a 'wimpy boulderer', let alone how JB is going to repay me in belaying duties..... A martyr to the cause 

I've seen the future, and it's orangey-red and leaking from my nose and ears.

[fatdoc]

c'mon...

is that bad?

Ok, probably is. I suggest a different group of mates doing yr spotting until it all cools off mate!

[uptown]

Sounds like this should be the hottest new tick in the peak.
Has anyone else actually climbed it since JB's reportage (07/02/07) - or are the floodgates still to be breached?

[Paz]

You'd love it if it became the hottest tick in the peak wouldn't you?!

[cofe]

Sounds like this should be the hottest new tick in the peak.
Has anyone else actually climbed it since JB's reportage (07/02/07) - or are the floodgates still to be breached?

would love to man but it's perma-wet at the minute (well certainly at weekends) - wet streak down the right hand side. damn weather. i don't reckon floodgates will be breached either. more something people will always aspire to.

[uptown]

You'd love it if it became the hottest tick in the peak wouldn't you?!

You must know the answer to that?! - I'd rather people came north of the border to repeat pheonix wall though - the best natural landing zone on grit!

[a dense loner]

this thread is nothing but comedy. i'm supposed to be having a shower and going out, i can't the suspense is just unbelievable. patio towers sounds a good shout for sat then can get round to doing be somebody.
uptown pm me if you're about next midwk, will try and get some cats to spread their wings.
whoever was going on about don't slip now obviously has no eyes, no sense of touch and has never been there.
Andi i spoke to si about your rantings and he said they started off in good faith but now he believes you have gone the same way as the commisioner in the pink panther movies.

[AndiT]

Bottom line is don't vent opinion on stuff you haven't seen.

I've never seen badger baiting, but I still have an opinion on it. Sounds pretty bad, although I'm sure they'd say the badger enjoys a good scrap.

If Si has changed his view he certainly didn't mention it when he popped round for a brew the other night.

[dave]

Sounds like this should be the hottest new tick in the peak.
Has anyone else actually climbed it since JB's reportage (07/02/07) - or are the floodgates still to be breached?

would love to man but it's perma-wet at the minute (well certainly at weekends) - wet streak down the right hand side. damn weather. i don't reckon floodgates will be breached either. more something people will always aspire to.

i predict another weekend for lovejoy spent looking for dry rock around the top end of curbar.

P.S. can anyone engineer a joke where the punchline is someone irish called Patty O'Building?

[BenF]

P.S. can anyone engineer a joke where the punchline is someone irish called Patty O'Building?

What do you call an Irish fella carrying rocks along Curbar Edge?  (you didn't say it had to be a good joke)

What do you call an Irish fella carrying rocks whilst being chased down the road away from the Roaches?