Yellowslacks (Read 8003 times)

enigma · February 06, 2007, 09:14:44 pm

The much fancied scoop above Dog Rock Ridge finally succombed yesterday. Quality moves, quite unique. About E4 6c or 7a+ in your money. Other new routes were climbed too.

Fiend · February 06, 2007, 10:47:14 pm

Exploratory!

andy popp · February 07, 2007, 08:03:42 am

Seriously esoteric. I love the photo of Malc Baxter on Dog Rock Ridge in the last Kinder guide, it just screams willfully, defiantly obscure. Who else would climb in a place like this.

Bonjoy · February 07, 2007, 09:16:03 am

You got any pictures enigmatic one?

SA Chris · February 07, 2007, 09:25:55 am

Is this the place that got blown up by the farmer, as mentioned in the Villain?

Somebody's Fool · February 07, 2007, 10:08:37 am

Not the best picture as the camera died before Golden Palms got any higher.

It goes up the scoop avoiding the left arete. It climbs brilliantly but the landing is spicy. You could end up in the brook quarter of a mile down the hill if you're a bit wild with your falling off. It tops out using the right arete.

I believe he has called this 'much fancied' line Palm D'Or. I managed the second ascent after a few scary jumps off. Recommended.

Bonjoy · February 07, 2007, 10:33:55 am

Looks good. Nice crag ladder! Got to get me one of those.
Didn't you do some new lines too?

Somebody's Fool · February 07, 2007, 01:06:45 pm

Indeed I did. There was an HVS 5c pitch, which may well have been done before, to the right of Main/Grey(?) Wall. We didn't get a picture of this but it consisted of break-to-break climbing a la Burbage Nord or summat. It's about 30ft high and worth a star. I'm going to call it Dog Egg Ridge.

From a belay on a slab above Dog Egg Ridge the continuation pitch is Preacherman, E3/4 5c. This is the enigma making a rueful second ascent:

The first ascent wasn't recorded as the third member of the party was rolling a tab as it happened. Ben had the first go but didn't commit to the crux move off the sloping break his left hand is on. It's an alright move but the penalty of a fall could be quite severe. Despite the route only being about 25 ft the only gear is the belay and a fall could result in bouncing down the slab and swinging around the arete halfway down Dog Egg Ridge.
I then had an uncharacteristic reckless moment and found myself at the top. I'd say this was worth a star as well.

This is Punchable Nun:

The wall to the left of Preacherman is a bit less steep and exposed, but more technical. It could still be a factor two fall from the crux but it has a better initial landing. Probably E3 5c.

All in all a splendid day out on some fine moorland gritstone. The fact that some new middling numbers went down as well was a bonus.

martin k · February 08, 2007, 11:06:13 am

At last, yellowslacks gets some well deserved attention! since i'm compiling the new guide for the area, please send all details of your routes and boulder problems to me at kinderguide@hotmail.com

we climbed eleven new lines at the crag last summer, of which i suspect 'dog egg ridge' was one, but i can't be sure without a clear description. both 'preacherman' and 'punchable nun' are new, however, and was on my list of 'things to do' for the coming year! by the sounds of it i'm relieved to have been spared the potential plummet. all the aretes have now been climbed at between HVS and E4/5 (incredibly there were four going begging), as well as some obvious gaps that have been climbed at grades between VDiff and E1.

there have been no claims on the buttresses that you encounter just below the moor's edge on the approach, and no bouldering has been reported to date. some easier new routes have been done in the vicinity of dog rock ridge. these are in the VDiff - VS range.

(i also like pictures of any and all moorland grit action)

well done!

grimer · February 08, 2007, 11:29:33 am

By the way, I have a picture of what i believe was reported as Miles' project thing at Dovestones (although i found it at the Ravenstones). I doubt if i will ever understand how to post pics but i could email it to someone smarter than me. It is worth seeing.

Bonjoy · February 08, 2007, 11:33:41 am

Email it to me and i'll post it.

Somebody's Fool · February 08, 2007, 12:32:10 pm

Si, although i appear to be you i'm not, and i'll send in the details of the routes.

martin k · February 08, 2007, 01:44:02 pm

"miles' project" at ravenstones is always clean and has been brushed every year for the past three. as grimey says it's worth seeing, and will make an awesome photograph, for those who climb for such reasons.

cheerio

Bonjoy · February 08, 2007, 01:47:37 pm

Here it be:

Looks pretty special to me

north_country_boy · February 08, 2007, 02:05:37 pm

That looks awesome!

dave · February 08, 2007, 05:25:48 pm

shit a dick. I'm booking a plane ticket to kinder.

a dense loner · February 08, 2007, 05:30:30 pm

so you can walk round for hours looking for ravenstones? $:-\$

enigma · February 08, 2007, 05:34:08 pm

or: so you can walk four hours to ravenstones

dave · February 08, 2007, 06:00:44 pm

yeah, exactly. think about it.

a dense loner · February 08, 2007, 10:02:37 pm

i think we have dave, have you?

cowboyhat · February 16, 2007, 03:39:31 pm

How tall is the rock in that picture? If Miles was standing near it, where would he come up to? half way up the slab? Or half way up to the overhang...?

unclesomebody · February 16, 2007, 03:47:35 pm

Is it a project? How hard is it? Where does it go exactly? Is it actually any good or does it just look great in the photo? ta.

Johnny Brown · February 16, 2007, 03:53:20 pm

Yes. Who knows, it hasn't been climbed. Up that rock, however you can manage it. Depends on your perception of quality, its not Danny's problem, is it?

unclesomebody · February 16, 2007, 04:01:55 pm

Thanks. I just wondered what the rock quality was like, it's a bit hit and miss up there. Danny's Problem? can I interpret what you wrote as "it's not shit it, is it?". So what about the height?

clm · March 24, 2007, 11:47:43 pm

Talking of eastern grit....has anyone been to the titwhistle knar boulders describes in the kinder guide?

a dense loner · March 25, 2007, 07:33:37 pm

andyh · March 26, 2007, 01:08:46 am

yes also

PATRuL · March 26, 2007, 03:46:25 am

I am as clear as a yellow piece of graniite
Solid and ready to climb as best i can
Said the candlestick server to His Queen
Ona gashie Mass
Void lets go SSKbonpo
The smoke rains heavy pain
I am sick
And I would never say sorry in a game of Ul-Hack

clm · March 26, 2007, 06:42:23 pm

fat lot of use you lot are. Should i rephrase my question perhaps for you pedants?
Is it good?
Worth the walk?
How big are the boulders?
Natural or quarried?
Climbed out?

Is patrul Si o connor??

and none of you were kind enough to spot my deliberate mistakes.

a dense loner · March 26, 2007, 09:30:22 pm

don't make the mistake of thinking because i didn't pull you that i didn't see.
not worth the walk.

Jim · March 26, 2007, 09:46:27 pm

I also saw it but again not worth pecking your massive head about. I've not been here

Somebody's Fool · March 26, 2007, 10:20:00 pm

Dense. From what I've heard about some of the people you have pulled, from yourself I hasten to add, it seems couldn't see would be more appropriate than didn't.